Ok, the way I was taught is to turn the square around from how you have it and place it in the deepest part of the grip and measure back to the string. Long bows, especially decent quality ones will never twist the limbs, but what will happen with RD longbows, is when your brace gets too low, the limb will kind of collapse back the other way in the middle and usually it only happens on one end and it will make your string lay down on the limb. My Dryad used to do it all the time, didn't have as good of strings then and they crepped more.
Thanks for the reply, a lot going on here and I’m learning a bunch. As I’ve mentioned in most of my trad bow threads, I can shoot the things ok but I generally have no idea what I’m doing.
Here’s my thoughts. I assumed when I got the bow that it was all set up with the string and all that. Im guessing they just gave me the 60” string and the brace height number of 9” figuring that anybody spending that sort of $$$ must know what they were doing.
I just threw the string on and went and shot it, it seemed ok but what do I know. When I measured the brace height the way the videos show, I was getting like 5-3/4” and lots of string on the limb. For the past half hour or so, I’ve been twisting the heck out of that string and I’m over 8” but going to keep going for the 9” they recommend.
The string is no longer touching the limb and it is getting noticeable harder to string/unstring. I’ve also been walking out and taking a few shots after each adjustment and the thing is noticeable more quiet.
The string still isn’t centered though and it’s bring out my inner OCD which I hate. Now it makes sense though why longbows don’t have string grooves….because the string shouldn’t be on the limb.
My black widow recurve is sitting at 9” again, without me doing anything, just putting the string on it, getting my nock to 5/8ths and shooting.
Anyways I’m going to keep working towards that 9” brace height, maybe like 10 more full twists on the top loop and I’ll report back.
