Stabilizers, what are they really doing, why do we use them?

[Billy Goat]

That said, I was talking to my bow shop guy and asking about to top "tip" that I was dealing with and he suggested moving my side bar HIGHER on the bow, moving it more close to center when I had it in a lower hole on the riser.

For whatever reason, this seemed to help but maybe it's more mental than not.

It wouldn't necessarily make sense to me, as it sounds like you are giving it less leverage, but there's a lot of factors.

I generally don't have a back bar set out very far, most of my target bows I have 1.5 degrees down from a lower rear stabilizer hole, and 1.5 degrees out.


Any idea how much weight you are adding between the mount, bar, and the weights?


Im assuming the top tip was forward?

If it was backwards it would make sense to move it higher, or just reduce weight on a back bar so you aren't fighting it.

 

[Jpsmith1]

It wouldn't necessarily make sense to me, as it sounds like you are giving it less leverage, but there's a lot of factors.

I generally don't have a back bar set out very far, most of my target bows I have 1.5 degrees down from a lower rear stabilizer hole, and 1.5 degrees out.


Any idea how much weight you are adding between the mount, bar, and the weights?


Im assuming the top tip was forward?

If it was backwards it would make sense to move it higher, or just reduce weight on a back bar so you aren't fighting it.

Tip was top left

I have a 6" Beestinger with around 10oz on it. Compared to a lot of bows I see, it feels like my stab sticks out quite a bit from the riser. 15-20 degrees or so with better than a 10 degree down angle We changed from some "generic" through bolt hole mounting system to a Shrewd QD type system that bolted into the front stab hole.

Based on what I'm picking up from this thread, I think I'm switching my stabs front to back, putting the longer bar on the back and moving the weight down on the riser but I won't be doing much until I get my new bow which will have some more mounting options.

 

[Billy Goat]

Tip was top left

I have a 6" Beestinger with around 10oz on it. Compared to a lot of bows I see, it feels like my stab sticks out quite a bit from the riser. 15-20 degrees or so with better than a 10 degree down angle We changed from some "generic" through bolt hole mounting system to a Shrewd QD type system that bolted into the front stab hole.

Based on what I'm picking up from this thread, I think I'm switching my stabs front to back, putting the longer bar on the back and moving the weight down on the riser but I won't be doing much until I get my new bow which will have some more mounting options.

The shrewd should mount to the lower hole too if you want. They are labeled with degrees, or all that im familiar with. The Atlas mount also has a flat to set against the riser to help lock it into position.

6" doesn't give a lot of leverage, but if it's kicked out 15 degrees, thats a lot.

 

[Elkhntr6]

I ran a 15” front and 10” back bar for a few seasons but then when on a 13 day elk hunt in September I just got sick of the bulk and weight. I had a matching 6” bar on my backup bow so in the middle of the hunt I put the 6” in the back and the 10” on the front and have been running that since. Also I have a lot less weight on them: 1 oz in the back and 2 in the front. Way lighter and easier to pack around. It does balance better with the longer bars but not enough to make it worth it. If I wanted to go even lighter I would try just an offset bar on the front but I’m pretty happy with what I have. Also I’m shooting a lift 33 and without the bars it’s pretty top heavy imo.