Stabilizer overall weight and mounting position

sacklunch

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Any of the more scientific folks or target archers please feel free to chime in...

overall weight of bars (aside from end weights). Looking at two front/back bar sets, on from cutter, a 15 + 12", both mounted from the v-bar on the front of the riser...overall weight of both cutters (without any end weights) is ~6oz...another (slightly cheaper) set from Quattro, the Vulcan pro at 15 + 10", mounted with the backbar off the rear of the riser, weigh a total of nearly 16oz without any weights.

from both a carry (week long hunts, lots of walking, little shooting) and shooting, I'm leaning towards the lighter cutter bars mounted as shown in the top pic...from what I can gather. That config (slightly higher center of gravity) is though to be a tad more forgiving on aiming and would seem to balance a little better when carrying vs having a shorter and heavier back bar mounted lower towards the cam.

Is one more stable than the other? Either one config or one overall weight? One more forgiving? Is lighter weight overall good for carrying but bad for stability? Or does mounting location and length factor in as well? I see alot of target bows set up like the top pic, is that because they don't have rear/lower mounts? Or is there something to it?

I haven't shot a compound in a few years, getting one set up again after going full trad for a bit. Never got to serious about stabilizers before, but the "science" of it has me intrigued now...but would like to not drop $800+ to buy both setups and test.
Screenshot_20230324_095107_Instagram.jpgScreenshot_20230324_095137_Instagram.jpg
 
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Beendare

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Designed to balance the bow after the shot…most guys with those have to experiment to get it right.

That said, I shoot fine without one, and would never drag that thing (pictured) into some of the brushy spots that I hunt.
 
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sacklunch

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Designed to balance the bow after the shot…most guys with those have to experiment to get it right.

That said, I shoot fine without one, and would never drag that thing (pictured) into some of the brushy spots that I hunt.
I shot my old bow much better at longer yardage with a front and back bar...agree, it is a bit ling, but really no different, actually shorter, than staying in the timber with a 27" arrow knocked

Just curious the implied +/- to mounting them a certain. And also overall weight vs a lighter bar with weight biased to the ends.
 

MattB

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Your question is like asking us what pant size you should wear. Only you can answer that question.
 
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sacklunch

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Your question is like asking us what pant size you should wear. Only you can answer that question.
It's not though, asking the pros and cons of weight vs position/mounting locations. There is actually a science to it, it's not just flat bill bro science.

It's ok to say to say you dont know. If you don't have the experience or background to speak to the physics of it, we can let someone else chime in. I obviously don't know either, that's why I asked.
 
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OR Archer

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There’s no definitive science to it. The only thing that’s fairly consistent on a set up like that is you’ll run more weight out back than up front. As far as positioning and length that all comes down to individual feel from experimenting with your set up. If there was a true science to it every pro would be running a cookie cutter set up, but they don’t based on their personal needs to hold better for their intended application.
 

MattB

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It's not though, asking the pros and cons of weight vs position/mounting locations. There is actually a science to it, it's not just flat bill bro science.

It's ok to say to say you dont know. If you don't have the experience or background to speak to the physics of it, we can let someone else chime in. I obviously don't know either, that's why I asked.
"It Ain’t What You Don’t Know That Gets You Into Trouble. It’s What You Know for Sure That Just Ain’t So"

- Mark Twain
 
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sacklunch

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There’s no definitive science to it. The only thing that’s fairly consistent on a set up like that is you’ll run more weight out back than up front. As far as positioning and length that all comes down to individual feel from experimenting with your set up. If there was a true science to it every pro would be running a cookie cutter set up, but they don’t based on their personal needs to hold better for their intended application.
I think it's both...some feel, obviously, and variables of additional weight on bow from quiver, etc. But there is certainly physics involved to center of gravity, rotational stability, etc. And that plays directly into ability to hold on target, minimize bow hand torque etc.

Im just not smart enough to figure out how certain configurations affect that for better or worse.

There is easily a breaking point to added weight vs stability, and thats sure to be personal pref...but brings up another question of how heavy is too heavy for a hunting bow. I think previously mine weighed in at 7lbs. With the ponder stabs and an estimate on end weights on the., it's the difference between 7.2lbs for the cutter setup and 7.9lbs on the Quattro setup. Over on AT I've seen bows range from 6.5lbs hunt ready to 8.3 for one fella.
 
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big44a4

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Mounting position is all preference. The point of stabilizers is to get the weight away from the riser of the bow. I’d go with the cutter setup as it will allow you to place more weight further from the riser to help balance the bow with less weight overall.

I use 10 total ounces on a 15/12 for my hunting bow and use 45-60 ounces on my target bow at any given time. My hunting bows come in around 10# with a full quiver. A heavier bow fits my needs best as my accuracy tolerance for a hunting bow is not much different than my target bows.
 
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sacklunch

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Mounting position is all preference. The point of stabilizers is to get the weight away from the riser of the bow. I’d go with the cutter setup as it will allow you to place more weight further from the riser to help balance the bow with less weight overall.

I use 10 total ounces on a 15/12 for my hunting bow and use 45-60 ounces on my target bow at any given time. My hunting bows come in around 10# with a full quiver. A heavier bow fits my needs best as my accuracy tolerance for a hunting bow is not much different than my target bows.
I did misread their weights slightly...its nearly a wash...cutter lists the bar bar weight, Quattro lists the weight including the 3oz of screw on that comes standard
 

Marble

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@sacklunch

For my hunting set up, which looks similar to yours in the top pic, I try to get the function of the stability with as light as weight as possible on each end. I don't even really know how much I have on each bar,I just know the weight that's there is just right.

The back bar can be adjuated up, down, in and out to make it deal different, as well as changing the amount of weight. It will also vary as you add arrows and/or a quiver to the bow. So keep that in mind.

My bow shoots really well set up with both bars. But I take the back bar off when hunting because it just gets in the way. I have had issues with it in the field that caused me to miss an animal. That problem is more because the V bar I have is a POS.

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Beendare

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It's not though, asking the pros and cons of weight vs position/mounting locations. There is actually a science to it, it's not just flat bill bro science.
Its actually a bit of both.

None of my buddies ( ex ASA pro shooters) that shoot these back bars shoot it in the same configuration. Its what groups for you. The science part is to balance out your quiver with minimal hand tension, essentially keeping your bow plumb. I would plan on shooting it a bunch when purchasing ( bring you quiver and hunt arrows of course) …and then assume you will have to make minor adjustments to fine tune over time.

That said, its a different strokes thing.…no one size fits all….whatever works for you.
 
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Go with Firenock Aerostab Titanium 8mm extension. The 15.75" weighs 3.492oz for $89.95. look at their QD/attachment components too, they weigh nothing, and you can adjust the angle to whatever you want, they are infinitely adjustable, and cost less than the big-name stabilizer brands. the 9" hollow Titanium 10mm extension weighs 2.05oz for $79.99. You do have to buy every part separate but it's still less money, smaller diameter (8-10mm), less weight, and more adjustable.

Check it out:


The picture below is the single side kit. You could even attach an adjustable QD to the front instead of the straight & you'd be able to adjust the angle of both stabilizers to anywhere you want. The kit in the picture cost $99.95
 

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