blacktailcentral
WKR
Either way the rail coming loose makes me want an integrated rail tikka action…..
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Why is the preference paint rather than loctite? I see people say that everywhere but I feel like a product made specifically for the application should be bestYikes. If you're happy with the rail otherwise it would be worth bonding. Also, I'm not a gunsmith but here's how I've mounted my rails, without issue.
>degrease fasteners, action threads, and rail with acetone
>loosely align and mount rail, lightly hand tight
>one at a time, remove fastener, apply small "blob" of nail polish to fastener threads, replace and finger tighten
>once all screws are nail polished and replaced, tighten to 20-22 in lbs
>use paint pen to create witness mark on screw head/rail, to quickly confirm nothing is coming loose.
I realize this isn't groud breaking, especially on this forum... switching from loctite to nail polish has served me well (I skipped over paint pen as a thread locker) and I haven't had issues yet. Like I said, I probably haven't shot the volume it sounds you have, and this is anecdotal. But hopefully it provides some insight.
@Salmon River Solutions might chime in on their preferred mounting procedure but it doesn't sound like you did anything "wrong."
Per form and UM it’s a more consistent loctite like materialWhy is the preference paint rather than loctite? I see people say that everywhere but I feel like a product made specifically for the application should be best
Because no one reads or follows the instructions for loctite where it says for stainless steel or similar non reactive metals you need to use loctite primer to initiate the reaction necessary for an anaerobic adhesive to cure.Why is the preference paint rather than loctite? I see people say that everywhere but I feel like a product made specifically for the application should be best
Why is the preference paint rather than loctite? I see people say that everywhere but I feel like a product made specifically for the application should be best