Spyderco Mule Team as a Hunting Knife?

wjv

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Joined
Jul 9, 2023
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Hi All - Does anyone use a Spyderco Mule Team as your go-to hunting knife? I'm not looking at any particular steel, but I do like the idea that some exotics have been used and, if you can find them, can be reasonably priced.

I am most interested in the size and shape of the Mule Team as your hunter, but opinions on specific releases are also interesting.

The blade length (~3.5") seems about right and the weight can be reasonable, but the shape looks a little too pointy to my eye. More drop seems warranted because the tip looks a little delicate, especially in less tough alloys. But I could be incorrectly biased.

Anyone have good or bad experiences with a Mule Team in the field?
 

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kpk

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MN
I've made a few (inspired by @sndmn11) and really like them. Like most, I've got a drawer full of knives and the mule team has become my favorite for deer and antelope. Haven't used on elk - hopefully this year.

mule.jpg
 
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wjv

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Jul 9, 2023
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Good to know they can perform. And thanks Sndmn for the pics. It helps to see the shape compared to others, specifically the Ridge Belt.

Do you guys worry about replaceability/collectability at all? Other than buying the production version, I'd be concerned I find something I like, but not be able replace it.

Another silly question- I'm sure you guys all sharpen your own knives, but it's one chore I've never learned to enjoy. Will commercial shops sharpen the super hard alloys (presuming you trust them)?

I'll probably buy the production version to see how it performs, but might pop for that 10V clone out now. I'm sure I can crank out some scales
 

sndmn11

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Good to know they can perform. And thanks Sndmn for the pics. It helps to see the shape compared to others, specifically the Ridge Belt.

Do you guys worry about replaceability/collectability at all? Other than buying the production version, I'd be concerned I find something I like, but not be able replace it.

Another silly question- I'm sure you guys all sharpen your own knives, but it's one chore I've never learned to enjoy. Will commercial shops sharpen the super hard alloys (presuming you trust them)?

I'll probably buy the production version to see how it performs, but might pop for that 10V clone out now. I'm sure I can crank out some scales

I do not worry about replacing mine. The one I use is that cork with carbon bolster in pma11. It can't be found but there's a bunch of steels that are similar. It is kind.of special because all of our family has that steel in a mule.

I have no idea if a place would sharpen one, I don't see any reason why not. It takes the same amount of time for me to do any steel on the work sharp free hand grinder thing.

The recent steels have all been fantastic, but are all really similar in the carbon steels. I think either the T15 or the k294 would be good choices. I do have two rex76 still and a bunch of the 15v, but having a Japan stamp might be neat.
 
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wjv

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Jul 9, 2023
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Matt - Nice looking set. Did you make the sheath? I'm probably going to go orange, too.
 

intunegp

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Sep 28, 2021
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677
I have made a bunch, maybe three dozen, for other sports people. They seem to like them. The belly is the same as many others.

I have 9 on my desk if you are looking for one. @mtnwrunner has one and I think has used it.

I might be interested in one depending on what steels you have laying around. Shoot me a message please!
 

rcb2000

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Dec 20, 2017
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Virginia
I’ve always loved the Spyderco leaf shaped blades, enough belly, but also a functional sharp tip.

I could absolutely see myself using one breaking down an animal.
 
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wjv

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Jul 9, 2023
Messages
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Thanks all, for the good feedback. I fell into the mule hole and decided to invest in one to try. From what I can tell, in general, folks like the Magnacut because it's very stainless and reaches near premium non-stainless steel attributes for wear and toughness. The problem is that the Magnacut mule sold fast and there is a huge premium on them now. Plus, I have a decent, older stainless knife.

So my next idea was to look for a non-stainless super-hard wearing and tough steel. The 15V might have fit the bill but it was a hot seller and also commands a premium on the secondary market.

The most recent (and still available) K294 mule is essentially 10V. I couldn't find the original source, but an older secondary quote from respected knife maker Phil Wilson says: "10V is a very specialized custom knife blade steel. It's never going to compete with the ATS34/154 CM group of work horse steels because of the lack of corrosion resistance and finish difficulties. A very few custom makers will use it for performance reasons only and it does not appear to be economically feasible for use on a factory blade. This is a steel for an avid hunter or guide who wants a blade for field dressing, skinning and boning, that cuts and holds an edge above everything else."

That sounds promising so I took the plunge and ordered one, along with some orange G10 for scales.

I'll report back when I'm done, and hopefully after some use in the field.
 

feanor

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Aug 15, 2018
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You probably don’t want to hear this since you just bought a knife, but the mule has an aebl in stock right now. Aebl is extremely capable, and checks a lot of boxes you have. It’s not up there on edge retention per se, but it is really tough. Might be worth your time to get one and compare it to the other steels you have.
 
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wjv

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Jul 9, 2023
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You probably don’t want to hear this since you just bought a knife, but the mule has an aebl in stock right now. Aebl is extremely capable, and checks a lot of boxes you have. It’s not up there on edge retention per se, but it is really tough. Might be worth your time to get one and compare it to the other steels you have.
Thanks, Feanor. I looked at the AEB-L but the edge retention scared me away. If, however, I like the mule pattern and the AEB-L is still available, I'll probably grab one to compare with the K294.

Do you have any experience with AEB-L? There's been times where I was annoyed I had to stop doing something to sharpen my S90V (albeit it's a bear to sharpen). So I'm hoping the K294 is right up my alley as long as I remember to wipe it down.
 
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Those are sharp looking knives. I've had a Spyderco for over a decade and never had any issues.
 

sndmn11

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Morrison, Colorado
Thanks all, for the good feedback. I fell into the mule hole and decided to invest in one to try. From what I can tell, in general, folks like the Magnacut because it's very stainless and reaches near premium non-stainless steel attributes for wear and toughness. The problem is that the Magnacut mule sold fast and there is a huge premium on them now. Plus, I have a decent, older stainless knife.

So my next idea was to look for a non-stainless super-hard wearing and tough steel. The 15V might have fit the bill but it was a hot seller and also commands a premium on the secondary market.

The most recent (and still available) K294 mule is essentially 10V. I couldn't find the original source, but an older secondary quote from respected knife maker Phil Wilson says: "10V is a very specialized custom knife blade steel. It's never going to compete with the ATS34/154 CM group of work horse steels because of the lack of corrosion resistance and finish difficulties. A very few custom makers will use it for performance reasons only and it does not appear to be economically feasible for use on a factory blade. This is a steel for an avid hunter or guide who wants a blade for field dressing, skinning and boning, that cuts and holds an edge above everything else."

That sounds promising so I took the plunge and ordered one, along with some orange G10 for scales.

I'll report back when I'm done, and hopefully after some use in the field.

K294 is a great choice!
 
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wjv

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Jul 9, 2023
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As a follow-up, I did end up putting scales on my mule and made a sheath. The scales are 1/8" G10 with .04" green liners and the sheath is .08" Holstex. I used 6-32 stainless button heads I had on hand and made some standoffs out of stainless rod to hold everything together. Total material cost was probably $20 or less. My total time invested is probably 2-3 hours over a couple days, but a lot of that was head-scratching. I have a reasonably well set-up garage, but this project could have been accomplished with hand tools (less the standoffs, which required a lathe). If you went with 4-40 screws it would be much easier.

If I do it again I will (i) stick with three screws - there was a small gap in the front that I should have let the epoxy fill/hold, instead I used a fourth screw and it looks a little silly; (ii) use .06 sheath material because I think the .08 is overkill; and (iii) spend more time on the sheath - I slapped it together in the interest of time and it's bulkier than it could be.

Still a nice little project.

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