Springfield 1903 Bolt identification-safe to shoot?

[Hunthigh1]

I inherited a sporterized 1903 Springfield that I’ve been dreaming of shooting, and maybe even hunting, but i’m scared it is unsafe. Any knowledge or opinions is much appreciated.

1. The serial number on receiver is 837,658 so the receiver should be safe with heat treat according to CMP. (Post 800,000 =“high number”)

2. The barrel is stamped SA 2-18 indicating a February 1918 manufacture date at Springfield armory.

So now, based on my research the only part in question for safety is the bolt.

Anyone on here know how to identify if this bolt is safe? It appears to NOT be a “swept back” bolt that indicates a heat treat one, but I found this chart linked below and am rather confused by it. I’ve attached photos of bolt and rifle.

https://www.scribd.com/doc/188186768/Springfield-M1903A3-and-Variants-Steel-Lot-Codes-and-Bolt-Usage-Charts

 

[Tmac]

The serial number is good, but the bolt looks like a low number angle. I’d look for a gunsmith or collector that specializes in 1903’s to render an opinion.

There are also pressure and bullet weight limits. I use this as a reference source for mine.

M1903/M1903A3 Rifle Information - Civilian Marksmanship Program

The U.S. M1903 and M1903A3 “Springfield” rifles military issue bolt action rifles, used during World War I, World War II, and the Korean War.

thecmp.org

 

[Slickhill]

Nice looking sporter, far superior to some.

I’m betting it has been fired hundreds or maybe thousands of times and as long as headspace is good I wouldn’t give it a second thought. I wouldn’t be trying to make it a 300 magnum with Bob Hagel style handloads but I don’t do that anyway.

Back when I was gunsmithing for a living I had an elderly lady bring me a sporterized 03 chambered in 308 Norma mag for a new scope. Upon cursory inspection I noticed a pretty sizable crack in the front ring. When I showed it to her and explained that it wasn’t safe she understood but was distraught. Said it was a rifle her husband had had built in the 1950s and he and his family as well as clients he’d guided had killed countless moose, caribou, bears, and Dall sheep with it. No way of knowing but judging by the patina I’d almost guess it had been cracked for years.

 

[Hunthigh1]

The serial number is good, but the bolt looks like a low number angle. I’d look for a gunsmith or collector that specializes in 1903’s to render an opinion.

There are also pressure and bullet weight limits. I use this as a reference source for mine.

M1903/M1903A3 Rifle Information - Civilian Marksmanship Program

The U.S. M1903 and M1903A3 “Springfield” rifles military issue bolt action rifles, used during World War I, World War II, and the Korean War.

thecmp.org

Thank you! I cleaned the bore with bore tech eliminator and polished up the outside and bolt of the rifle today. Loving the peep sight and the rifle overall as I handle it more. I can tell that it has good accuracy potential with the thumb adjustable peep and long sight radius. I will seek out a 1903 historian or smith to try to verify if the bolt is safe before I fire it. Thank you for the input.

If I can’t verify the safety of the heat treat on the bolt, do you think if I bought a “swept back” post 1918 bolt to use with the rifle it would be good to go? In other words, are bolts are safely interchangeable between rifles?

 

[Hunthigh1]

Nice looking sporter, far superior to some.

I’m betting it has been fired hundreds or maybe thousands of times and as long as headspace is good I wouldn’t give it a second thought. I wouldn’t be trying to make it a 300 magnum with Bob Hagel style handloads but I don’t do that anyway.

Back when I was gunsmithing for a living I had an elderly lady bring me a sporterized 03 chambered in 308 Norma mag for a new scope. Upon cursory inspection I noticed a pretty sizable crack in the front ring. When I showed it to her and explained that it wasn’t safe she understood but was distraught. Said it was a rifle her husband had had built in the 1950s and he and his family as well as clients he’d guided had killed countless moose, caribou, bears, and Dall sheep with it. No way of knowing but judging by the patina I’d almost guess it had been cracked for years.

I think you are correct about this rifle having been fired a lot. It certainly shows field wear and plenty of copper fouling in the bore and crevices when I cleaned it today.

Is your comment about headspace suggesting I have a gunsmith check headspace?

Yikes! That’s a wild story! Thanks for sharing.

 

[TaperPin]

That’s a cool old rifle. I’d just shoot it, but look at it closely for cracks from time to time and not try to hot rod it if you handload. Factory ammo is slightly downloaded in pressure because of rifles like yours, and published reload charges are pressure tested to the same.

When problem rifles with cracks are talked about, it often includes the conversion to a magnum cartridge. The larger head diameter creates more force on the lugs even if pressures were the same as the ‘06, but the belted cartridges also operate at higher pressure, so it’s a double whammy. Add reloaders trying to get the absolute highest pressures and it’s a trifecta of action wrecking.

With rifles over 100 years old you’ll find bolt markings are not an exact science - the cost of having headspacing adjusted for a new bolt is still no guarantee the “good” bolt is better than the one already on the rifle. There’s also no guarantee the bolt currently in your rifle originally came with it. I tend to like keeping a rifle as is if it’s been functioning fine up to this point.

 

[Tmac]

Thank you! I cleaned the bore with bore tech eliminator and polished up the outside and bolt of the rifle today. Loving the peep sight and the rifle overall as I handle it more. I can tell that it has good accuracy potential with the thumb adjustable peep and long sight radius. I will seek out a 1903 historian or smith to try to verify if the bolt is safe before I fire it. Thank you for the input.

If I can’t verify the safety of the heat treat on the bolt, do you think if I bought a “swept back” post 1918 bolt to use with the rifle it would be good to go? In other words, are bolts are safely interchangeable between rifles?

Some bolts can be switched if headspace and lug engagement are checked out by a gunsmith. But a hand fitted gun, which you may have, would concern me, and off to the expert smith I’d go. I am not sure how close tolerances were held a hundred years ago between guns.

But yes, it is a possibility to carefuly check out.

 

[Hunthigh1]

That’s a cool old rifle. I’d just shoot it, but look at it closely for cracks from time to time and not try to hot rod it if you handload. Factory ammo is slightly downloaded in pressure because of rifles like yours, and published reload charges are pressure tested to the same.

When problem rifles with cracks are talked about, it often includes the conversion to a magnum cartridge. The larger head diameter creates more force on the lugs even if pressures were the same as the ‘06, but the belted cartridges also operate at higher pressure, so it’s a double whammy. Add reloaders trying to get the absolute highest pressures and it’s a trifecta of action wrecking.

With rifles over 100 years old you’ll find bolt markings are not an exact science - the cost of having headspacing adjusted for a new bolt is still no guarantee the “good” bolt is better than the one already on the rifle. There’s also no guarantee the bolt currently in your rifle originally came with it. I tend to like keeping a rifle as is if it’s been functioning fine up to this point.

Excellent points about bolts easily being swapped and hard to ID. When I read the chart and compared to my bolt stamps I can’t seem to find one that aligned with my reading of the stamp “8 Rb” or “B Rb”. The rifle has certainly been shot a bit or a lot in its current configuration as the sporterized stock shows field use and a significant crack that I hope to repair.

Nonetheless, I think I will seek out a smith. If nothing else he can maybe give me the confidence to not flinch when I finally pull the trigger and advise stock repair….

 

[Hunthigh1]

I am not sure how close tolerances were held a hundred years ago between guns.

But yes, it is a possibility to carefuly check out.

Thanks, based on responses to this thread the plan now is to find a smith to have a look and hopefully give me the confidence to fire this bad boy, even though I know others have fired it in the past.

The peep sight is amazing with its Thumb adjust elevation, flip down aperture, and 1911 patent stamp. Sight radius from rear to front measures 27.5” so I badly want to try it out for accuracy at distance!

Utah’s experimental no-scope deer seasons have me thinking about setting up an accurate open sighted rifle anyways in case other states implement these type of seasons and this would be a very cool rifle to take a buck with if I can get it dialed in safely.

I’ll post some more photos for fun below.

 

[waspocrew]

I have a 1903 that was sporterized. Was my grandfather's, although I don't believe he really hunted/shot it much at all. Serial number is low 1,000,000s and has the straight bolt. Didn't even realize there was a difference with the bolts. I've never fired it, but now you have me thinking.

 

[TaperPin]

Excellent points about bolts easily being swapped and hard to ID. When I read the chart and compared to my bolt stamps I can’t seem to find one that aligned with my reading of the stamp “8 Rb” or “B Rb”. The rifle has certainly been shot a bit or a lot in its current configuration as the sporterized stock shows field use and a significant crack that I hope to repair.

Nonetheless, I think I will seek out a smith. If nothing else he can maybe give me the confidence to not flinch when I finally pull the trigger and advise stock repair….

Many smiths with experience in old military rifles can advise on the hardness # of both the receiver and bolt. It wasn’t uncommon to check those prior to rebarreling a military receiver. Many young gunsmiths who rarely see military actions may have only read about it.

I think it’s cool to keep hunting rifles from that period.

 

[Hunthigh1]

 

[waspocrew]

View attachment 829507View attachment 829508View attachment 829512View attachment 829514View attachment 829518View attachment 829522View attachment 829523

Nice rig, pretty good shape with the exception of the cracked stock.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Initially I thought the bolt stamp read "Rb" instead I think it says "R10". That stamp would put the bolt as being manufactured in 1927 with nickel steel according to the pictured chart below. However, the bolt still does not have a swept back handle and appears to have a different looking rear portion when compared to other Springfield bolts making the thing even more confusing.

As a result, I will absolutely be reaching out to some old timer gunsmiths/historians to determine what the deal is. I will post my findings in case anyone on here cares. If I can make this thing safe I intend to swap or repair the stock and kill an animal or several with it.

 

[TaperPin]

Initially I thought the bolt stamp read "Rb" instead I think it says "R10". That stamp would put the bolt as being manufactured in 1927 with nickel steel according to the pictured chart below. However, the bolt still does not have a swept back handle and appears to have a different looking rear portion when compared to other Springfield bolts making the thing even more confusing.

As a result, I will absolutely be reaching out to some old timer gunsmiths/historians to determine what the deal is. I will post my findings in case anyone on here cares. If I can make this thing safe I intend to swap or repair the stock and kill an animal or several with it.

View attachment 831816

That’s a great find! I think you’re right about the number.

In the Springfield collector groups there are a number of late number bolts with straight handles. I’ve never heard the reasoning behind why some newer ones were straight, but the markings were clearly a later bolt.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Update on this rifle.

I reached out to the folks on Gunboards forum and CMP forum.

It was determined to be a bolt made at the Rock Island armory in 1918 and is safe to fire. The barrel was made in 1918 at Springfield armory. I checked headspace, had the stock crack repaired, bedded the recoil lug, oiled the inside of the stock and ordered some M1 Garand ammo to start with low pressure rounds.

I started at 112 adjusted the rear sight windage a hair and got accustomed to the front sight.
I fired some mediocre groups at 215 but am still getting used to the front bead hold location.

112 yard groups however are very promising!

 

[Tmac]

Congrats! Always nice to know the history of a piece. Now go hunt with it.

 

[Hunthigh1]

Congrats! Always nice to know the history of a piece. Now go hunt with it.

That’s the plan!

 

[BlaserNut]

Hello, Hunthigh1. Yesterday I acquired an M1903 sporter, serial number 847,488, also a Springfield Armory 1918 production model. Mine's been converted to a 300 Win Mag, and the previous owner did a really nice job bedding the action, floating the barrel, putting in a Timney trigger and topping it off with a Swarovski scope. I found this post as I was doing some research on the rifle to verify its safety, fortunately it all checked out and after cleaning every little part and remounting the scope I'm ready to take it to the range. My plan is to use it August 1 for Utah's antlerless landowner elk hunt. I'm hoping it's at least as accurate as the 300 Win Mag I gave to my son, actually I'm hoping it's more accurate. Anyway, I enjoyed reading several of the similarities of stories. How's the open site shooting going, BTW? Also, how's your action? My bolt requires quite a bit of force to cock. Once the firing pin is set it's super smooth to cycle, I've been reading about several similar cases and thought I'd ask.

 

[Hunthigh1]

BlaserNut,

Excellent! We would love to see a photo of the rifle! Sounds like a cool setup you have. My open sight shooting has been OK. I find that i am able to achieve about 2" 3 shot groups at 100 yds and 2.2"-3.5"-5 shot groups at 100 when i really bear down and don't fire the rifle in succession to allow it to get hot.

At 200 yards, my groups are varied. At best, I am able to shoot about 6-8" groups at the last testing with cheap S&B ammo. I am certain that a big part of this is my difficulty with the front sight post. The blade is not the easiest to work with, but i am getting used to it. If I can get my group size down a little bit and work the rifle out to 250 or 300 within 8-10" groups, I think I may elk hunt with it this fall.

I am trying to find a globe-style front sight for the rifle but that has proven difficult. I am certain it would improve my accuracy due to my experience with globes on muzzleloaders.

I believe the rifle walks a bit due to stock contact with the barrel as it heats up. I have considered free-floating it but I am concerned it may make the stock prone to cracking.

I have some 168 Grain Hornady match M1 Garand loads that I plan to shoot some more at distance.

The action on my rifle is not stiff at all. This rifle has alot of use and is fast and smooth to run as a result. . . I wonder why yours is so tight. You might consider reaching out to the CMP or gun board forums with that question if the bolt lift bothers you.