MontanaMarine
WKR
I started my traditional archery journey a couple years ago. I gained a lot of beginners knowledge from Greg Richards' site Trad Archery 101. Some good stuff presented in easy to follow style.
Add this one to the knowledge base, its very good.
This is a good example of a avg shooter getting his form diagnosed by a top notch coach.
We get your point Tater- a coach is better…..This highlights what I was saying. You can watch all the videos you want. Unless you have someone watch you shoot and point out the small things you're doing wrong you will most likely struggle with what should be an easily correctable problem. Not only that but you will compound the issue by committing the wrong way to do it to muscle memory.
It's a good thing I never said that then.We get your point Tater- a coach is better…..
…But saying there is no good free internet resources is not accurate.
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Yes, the satori is a solid rig. It has what is called ilf limb attatchment. So you can use any brand of ilf limbs. You can change grips also if you do t like it. That the beauty of metal ilf rig . So modular and adjustable that you can learn what you really like and fits you. Now you certainly don't need one as high end as the Hoyt or border tempest but if you want to try one go for it. Then you have an excellent base to try different limbs on for lifeSo as a person who has never really tried a trad setup and has been looking at them it appears that the Hoyt Satori would be a great place to start. I say that given the amount of options for setup and tuning that it has. However, it doesn’t seem to be as popular as more expensive bows that aren’t as easily tuned (at least in my novice opinion). Is there a reason for this that I don’t see? Thanks for the input ahead of time, I’m just here to learn something
this is a great video.... long, but some excellent info. great idea for a thread too Beendare!ALL; Post up any of the free internet resources to improve your shooting you like.
I think the video series at 3 rivers, "Masters of the Barebow" #1 and #3 are a great resource with top pros breaking down the components of a shot....and breaking down the different aiming techniques.
Most of these guys I'm recommending on Youtube have multiple good vids in addition to the ones here;
Arne Moe
I'm a newer trad shooter. Buying the Tom Klum course is the best archery money I've ever spent.A lot of guys like Tom Clum who sells a shooting clinic........I personally haven't watched any of his stuff
And don't sell off your old arrows when you get a new setup, I see guys selling off or wanting to trade arrows, at least keep one or two of each spine you buy over time so you have readily accessible arrows to try on new setups for tuning!How do I select the right arrow spine?
When your trad bow can shoot a bareshaft in the same grouping as your fletched arrows then you know it’s tuned And that you have good form. What this tuning does is makes the bow quieter, more forgiving and more accurate.
in the beginning it’s best not to worry about arrow spine but instead concentrate on your form. You cannot get consistent bareshaft indications when your form is erratic. Down the road, It’s a good exercise once you do have a tuned bow/arrow combo to continue to shoot bareshafts as these will indicate form errors in a tuned set up.
The Stu Miller and 3 Rivers calculators will get you close on spine assuming dead nuts accurate data entry- you have to measure everything. Example: a 1/6” error in strike plate makes a big difference. I an guilty of not measuring accurately myself.
STU MILLER CALC HERE
Orherwise you can order one or two arrows of different spines from some suppliers, Lancaster is one. It’s best to start long and then cut the arrow down in small increments until it bare shafts perfectly. I don’t even fletch them now but instead bareshaft a test Arrow first.
Its crazy how well feathers can make a poorly tuned arrow fly well, thus bareshafting is essential. If your bow shoots a bareshaft straight, then it will shoot your broad heads to the same point as your field points. Its best to start close to the target-like 5 yds in case those arrows are way off spine. I look at where the shaft strikes the target in relation to fletched arrows and dont worry if its at a slight angle Nok R-L-up or down some of that can be target material related. . Some guys want those arrows in the target perfectly straight, more power to them. .
Bareshaft location in relation to fletched arrows is a good way to dial in your perfect nokking height. High- raise nokking point, Low is opposite.
Another option: Some guys shoot BHs with their field points and compare groups tuning that way. I do this in my compound but I think its a finer tune in a trad bow with a bare shaft.
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How many humans do you know that work that way though? Most of us have to learn the hard wayThis is why I don't like these threads and tell new shooters to avoid the forums.
The amount of stuff that's been dumped here has nothing to do with starting out. A new shooter shouldn't be worried about 3 under or split. They shouldn't be worried about the type of bow only the poundage. They shouldn't be worried about a glove or a tab or if it's made of the finest of udder leather from a Cambodian milk goat. They shouldn't even think of considering trying to tune arrows.
They should be focused solely on form.
Thats it.
None of the rest of this crap matters if you don't have your form dialed in.
Ok, coach. Have a link to your form program? Seems you're getting yourself bent out of shape for nothing.This is why I don't like these threads and tell new shooters to avoid the forums.
The amount of stuff that's been dumped here has nothing to do with starting out. A new shooter shouldn't be worried about 3 under or split. They shouldn't be worried about the type of bow only the poundage. They shouldn't be worried about a glove or a tab or if it's made of the finest of udder leather from a Cambodian milk goat. They shouldn't even think of considering trying to tune arrows.
They should be focused solely on form.
Thats it.
None of the rest of this crap matters if you don't have your form dialed in.
Oh? How so? How is dumping useless info on a someone new to the sport helpful? I don't have a program I already outlined what someone new to the sport should do.Ok, coach. Have a link to your form program? Seems you're getting yourself bent out of shape for nothing.
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