So Ulmer got me thinking...

Sunspot

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Today's bows are so nice that we can look at our options for dropping weight. For what little shock, an absorbing style stab can be deleted. Also, it might be worth getting used to shooting w/o one period. Think of all the weight you can save with a carbon bow, 32" max A2A and minimal accessories. He even hack-sawed the excessive quiver rods not being used. I am going to explore this route in the near future and see how much accuracy/performance I really lose.
 

Hardstalk

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Ive never ran a stabilizer on my newer setup. Its a hoyt rampage. Coming from a bass pro diamond chronic. It was a world of difference! Once I got around to accessorizing the newer setup I didn't notice much a difference with or without a stab.
 

J-Daddy

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As long as you start with a bow that balances well "which for me the carbon Hoyts always have" then you don't HAVE to have a lot of stabilizer on them. I know Randy's brother Rusty doesn't hunt with a stabilizer on his bow either...
 

PhillyB

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I was always told that a heavier bow shoots better. Similar to a heavier gun has less recoil than a lighter gun.

I would think there is a breaking point with a bow, new or old, where performance suffers because it is too light. On the other hand, you dont want to be shooting a tank either.

The goal is to find that spot where there is a little weight to the bow to help steady it and absorb shock after the shot, but not so heavy that is wears your out to shoot it.
 

RosinBag

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Stabs are not just for vibration. Stabs are used to help aim the bow, slow your sight movement and balance the bow. All of these things lead to better and more accurate shooting. If you shoot anything long range, even practicing, stabs will make you better. You may shoot ok without them, but you will shoot better with them if you take the time to experiment with different lengths and weights along with same experimenting with side rods.
 
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Stabs are not just for vibration. Stabs are used to help aim the bow, slow your sight movement and balance the bow. All of these things lead to better and more accurate shooting. If you shoot anything long range, even practicing, stabs will make you better. You may shoot ok without them, but you will shoot better with them if you take the time to experiment with different lengths and weights along with same experimenting with side rods.

I agree, its called a stabilizer not a dampener. Want a quiet bow shoot a heavier arrow. I notice a huge difference at 40+ yards.

All that said I know guys that shoot really well without them.

I also want to add that a longer stabilizer needs less weight to be effective.
 
OP
Sunspot

Sunspot

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I agree, its called a stabilizer not a dampener. Want a quiet bow shoot a heavier arrow. I notice a huge difference at 40+ yards.

All that said I know guys that shoot really well without them.

I also want to add that a longer stabilizer needs less weight to be effective.

Sure but some are designed to do both. Like anything it is finding the point of diminishing returns. Certainly weight is a bigger factor for backpack style hunting than sitting in a small condo blind in a farmer's field. It seems like a good wrist strap could be used to aid stability with a certain tightness or fit. Anyhow, it will be fun to test sometime.
 

Jared Bloomgren

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This is my opinion alone.....I shoot a heavier bow better and the added weight in the backcountry has not bothered me. When speaking about the bow only....if a half pound of added weight is going to hinder my performance.....I shouldn't be there in the first place.

Now if we are talking about items in the pack, unneeded weight can add up fast!
 

J-Daddy

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Now take what I said earlier with a grain of salt..lol
My hunting rig this year will have a 12" B-Stinger on the front and a 10" on the back..lol
 

RosinBag

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J Daddy I bet that set up works well for you also. I shoot front and side stabs because it settles my pin movement significantly.

I carry a ten pound rifle and my bow is 7 pounds 3 ounces, and all I do is back pack hunt. I will also shoot longer shots than most so having my gear capable for that may mean it is a little heavier.
 
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I've found stabs mostly beneficial during a shooting session, after some fatigue etc. Helps steady pins but I go back and forth for first shots of day at extended ranges just proving pins leading up to season opener and I dont notice a diff. I've mostly hunted without them. Also, feel there is such a thing as too light and too short of bow.
 

J-Daddy

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J Daddy I bet that set up works well for you also. I shoot front and side stabs because it settles my pin movement significantly.

I carry a ten pound rifle and my bow is 7 pounds 3 ounces, and all I do is back pack hunt. I will also shoot longer shots than most so having my gear capable for that may mean it is a little heavier.

I normally shoot a setup with a side bar of some sorts for hunting... All depends on the bow to me. My Experience I was shooting didn't shoot as well for me with much weight on it , same with the Carbon Matrix I used to shoot... All my PSE's have always worked better with a heavier setup and a side bar on them... I play around with setups alot so I kinda figure out what each bow wants and that's what I run.
 

TXCO

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Light bows blow, literally.

Yea wait until the wind starts blowing and then try and hold that light bow steady...

I havea friend that shot in college. People would give him a hard time about all his "fancy equipment" So he would slowly take a piece off and shoot an arrow and repeat until the only thing on his bow was a rest, no sights no nothing and still hit X's. He could still shoot lights out to prove a point without it but he would never shoot a competition without it. I usually shoot a heavy bow and like it a lot. I think it makes me better. To each their own. But I didnt hike all that way to miss a shot because I was tired and couldnt hold a light bow steady.
 

kickemall

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Theres a very interesting article in the July issue of Field and Stream magazine addressing myths about bow accuracy. It includes bow stabilizers and is worth reading.
 
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So back to the OP. what bow would you base a light weight build on. I know in the rifle would there is 2 or 3 base rifles like the Kimber Montana or the Remington model 70.

For my build I would start with a Mathews helim. A NAP carbon apache rest. I would still run my 10" bee stinger with a 4oz weight. Tight spot quiver.

The only item I have issues is picking a sight I love me some spot Hogg but they are tanks . What's a light weight sight that is still bomber like the Hogg's?

Anyway what's your light weight build?
 
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Sunspot

Sunspot

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Maybe a Bowtech Carbon Knight or Hoyt CE3, Vital Gear Proslide sight (slide) and Octane Deadlock Pro quiver.
 
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ontarget7

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Maybe a Bowtech Carbon Knight or Hoyt CE3, Vital Gear Proslide sight (slide) and Octane Deadlock Pro quiver.


With those bows IMO you will have a far better hold with a stab. I chose the Spyder 30 this year and played around without a stab and saw long range my overall groups increased in size. I went back to a 10" Fuse Blade stab and even added 2 oz of weight to it. Holds very well and can hold some very good groupings at 100 yards 6-7" pretty regularly. I can not hold those same groups without a stab. Not only that when in the backcountry I throw my bow over my shoulder quite frequently and have the stab in front of my chest facing down. It is very comfortable to carry it this way and the longer stab makes it a bonus, the bow just about sits there on my shoulder perfect.
 

rodney482

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stabilizers only have 1 purpose,,holding your wrist strap on... LOL

I remember when I started using a B-stinger in competition... my scores went up 15-20 pts..

Shots under 40 yds they are not quite as important

I respect what Randy has to say but I dont always agree with him.... ( like a tight wrist strap) NO thanks
 
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