Sinew Backed Juniper Bow

[Felix40]

I just wanted to share my first attempt at a sinew backed bow. It’s a juniper stave that I cut locally and backed with sinew that I harvested from a bull I killed last month. Both parts came from about 10 miles apart. This was my first time working with a stave I cut myself, working with juniper, or working with sinew so there was a lot to learn. I wanted the bow to be good enough for me to shoot and hunt with but the sinew did not reflex it as much as I hoped. I ended up cutting it down and making a new bow for my son since he is about to outgrow his current one.


Turns out that juniper is a PITA to work with due to all the knots. Although sinew is time consuming to break into fibers and apply, it is a really nice backing material. The tiller still isn’t perfect but I learned a lot.

The bow came out at 48” long, 24 pounds at 24”. My boy is 5 and currently pulling 20”. With any luck it will grow with him for a couple years.

It shoots really good considering it’s a kid’s bow. I honestly think I could go kill a deer with it even with the short draw length. Hopefully I can get a full size one done by September.

 

[LostArra]

Nice job!
Kid's bow? The hunting bows for the plains Indians were not much different in specs except they used Osage when available.
Juniper is a very difficult bow wood. I've seen some spectacular explosions on a tillering tree with juniper.

Did you use hide glue?

 

[Beendare]

Nice work.

Yeah that PJ is tough, The knots in that PJ almost guarantees a weak spot.

_____

 

[Felix40]

Definitely a kids bow by today’s standards. I’m pretty happy that it didn’t just explode. I’ve heard the same thing about juniper.

I used titebond and modern material for the string.

 

[ScottRK]

Good job!
I broke my only attempt for my kids’ bow while tillering years ago.

 

[LostArra]

When I've used sinew it takes a significant layer(s) of overlapping strands to get some reflex and it's not really attractive so snakeskins are added if cosmetics are important. I've also had an increase in draw weight with possibly some re-tillering needed.

It wouldn't have the same local roots as your juniper but if you are ever passing thru Oklahoma I've got some seasoned osage staves (65") that would make a good dad bow and it's a heck of a lot easier to work than juniper once you've chased a ring for the back.

 

[Felix40]

I seriously considered ordering an Osage stave but couldn’t handle the price they ask for those things. I do have some ash that I might try next. I also think I have a better idea of how to pick a juniper stave now too. Really have to be super selective.

I told the boy that we will add snakeskin if he wants it and we can find a rattler. I actually think the sinew looks pretty cool. Not a refined look at all but still cool.

Be careful what you offer up. I make it out that way more than you might expect.

 

[LostArra]

Be careful what you offer up. I make it out that way more than you might expect.

For someone who put that much work into their son's bow, the offer stands.

 

[Felix40]

Got to shoot it today when he got home from school. He stayed out there until it got too dark to see.

 

[Sheepdog]

Very cool!

 

[ScottRK]

Fantastic and what a spot to grow up for a boy.

 

[Beendare]

Oh man nice Felix, that kid is going to be a hunting fool.

FWIW, Im on the other end of the spectrum from you with kids in their 20’s. Dang I miss those days when they were little. Every day with them is precious when young.


——-

 

[SliverShooter]

Felix40,

You done good! That tiller is right on.

I built several juniper bows when I first started building selfbows. I either didn’t back them or backed them with antelope rawhide. Always felt everyone of them was ready to explode, though luckily none did. Now, I only use juniper in glass bows.

 

[Cedarsavage]

Awesome work. Titebond or hide glue for the sinew backing?

 

[Felix40]

Awesome work. Titebond or hide glue for the sinew backing?

Titebond

 

[Cedarsavage]

Looking at doing the same with cedar. How long did it take to dry out, and did you use a hot box?

Titebond

 

[Felix40]

Looking at doing the same with cedar. How long did it take to dry out, and did you use a hot box?

I cut the stave in early January and roughed it out within a couple days. Basically got it down to something that resembled a bow. I put it by the wood stove for about a week. I do not have a moisture meter. I went based on how the wood was looking. As it dried it changed shape a little and I even got some cracks in all the knots. The cracks worried me so I moved it away from the stove so it would dry a little more slowly. Total I only let it dry about 2 weeks. Keep in mind that I am in New Mexico and it’s super dry in my house with the wood stove going all winter. Once the wood looked like it was stable I started getting serious about shaping it into a bow. All the cracks disappeared as I removed wood.

I think if I were to do it again in my climate, I would skip putting it anywhere near the stove and just plan on it taking a little longer.

 

[Felix40]

Another thing worth mentioning is that this stave had a lot more sapwood than I expected. The final bow ended up being about 60% sapwood.

I’ve built a lot of fiberglass, wood laminate, and board bows. For its size this bow shoots as good as pretty much any fiberglass longbow I have shot and it blows away any of the red oak board bows I’ve made. It really surprised me.

 

[Cedarsavage]

Another thing worth mentioning is that this stave had a lot more sapwood than I expected. The final bow ended up being about 60% sapwood.

I’ve built a lot of fiberglass, wood laminate, and board bows. For its size this bow shoots as good as pretty much any fiberglass longbow I have shot and it blows away any of the red oak board bows I’ve made. It really surprised me.

Thanks. I was thinking a week. I think I’ll plan on two and see where it’s at. Probably not as dry as what you’re working with

 

[GLB]

Very nice!