Sighting in the Dialed Prüf question.

Tupp

Lil-Rokslider
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Feb 5, 2024
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I understand how to sight in and the process, like most I’m sure I’m not one of the only people having to do the dialed custom tape as none of the included tapes worked at all.

I’m using a Mathews lift 33, 80lb mods, 28.5 DL. My arrows are 475 TAW and I’m getting 286 fps.

Now my question/concern is while shooting, getting groupings, and marking down on the test tape the number that correlates to my zero, I figured there should be a trend up until a certain point where my arrows lose more energy and the drop on the tape will start to increase.

So I shot, 20 all the way out to 100. I wrote down all of the numbers in 5 yard increments to really be able to double check once I print my tape, I can reference the “test tape” and see if they match up with the numbers I got as well.

So
20-30y: 4
30-40y: 5.5
40-50y: 5.5
50-60y: 6
60-70y: 5.5
70-80y: 6
80-90y: 8.5
90-100y: 6.5

So as you can see there’s a gradual increase inbetween sight lines or marks the further I get, but from the 80 to the 90 yard mark I’m up an additional 2 lines. Then back down to 6.5 lines going from 90 yards to 100 yards.

Now I understand that there’s going to be some variation due to the human error, and I probably spent the most time shooting the 70-100 yard markers. I’m fairly certain they’re correct but I’m just wondering if anyone else has run into this or if anyone might have any knowledge or explanation to the jump up and back down in lines between distances.

Now before I go printing the tape, I’ll go out another day and reshoot 70-90 and confirm.

Here’s a few shots from 100 yards
 

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So I usually do that on my personal targets, but this was a private range.

What I was curious about that, is how wide do I make the tape at further distances? Obviously a 2 inch blue painters tape isn’t really going to be visible at 100 with my pin. Is there a rule of thumb there?
 
I usually do just big enough to see it. Seems like it depends on the lighting conditions. I can usually see a 2-3” line at 100 yards.
 
I mean I just use white phasing tape. I think I it’s like 3/4” and I see it just fine at 100+
 
Maybe check your third axis. I had an issue with mine and it did something similar on a lift 29.5 with a 27” draw. After beating myself over the head a few times I went back and checked my third axis again and it was off. That is what I don’t like about the pruf is the third axis can get knocked off too easy.
 
Maybe check your third axis. I had an issue with mine and it did something similar on a lift 29.5 with a 27” draw. After beating myself over the head a few times I went back and checked my third axis again and it was off. That is what I don’t like about the pruf is the third axis can get knocked off too easy.
Can you elaborate a little more with the issue you were having?
My third axis seems to be fine, still locked in.

Due to work and weather I haven’t had any time to take it back to a shop or shoot.
 
Can you elaborate a little more with the issue you were having?
My third axis seems to be fine, still locked in.

Due to work and weather I haven’t had any time to take it back to a shop or shoot.
With the third axis set screw fully tightened, the third axis would still move. During hunting season, I would just throw my bow in the backseat and it got bumped a lot. At first I didn’t notice it until I took it out to the range and shot 80+ yards and then noticed my third axis was off again.
 
That could be just your anchor changing ever so slightly. Did you repeat the process with the same results on multiple occasions?
 
Yea it’s not my anchor point, once I get some more time off I’m gonna go straight to shooting those distances and reconfirming with a horizontal tape.

I’ll post results once finished, was more so wondering if anyone had anything similar happen.
 
What type of fletching are you using? The drag coefficient of the Dialed tapes might not be what you need. If your vane and helical combo have a higher drag then the tapes will never be super accurate for you at longer distances and you'll have to use a software like Precision Cut to get what you need.
 
What type of fletching are you using? The drag coefficient of the Dialed tapes might not be what you need. If your vane and helical combo have a higher drag than the tapes will never be super accurate for you at longer distances and you'll have to use a software like Precision Cut to get what you need.
I’m not using any of their tapes, none of them work lol. I’m using their custom tape builder, but it’s the sight in tape
1…5…10…15…20, so on and so forth.
You select the number that correlates to the distance and input it in their tape builder.

I’m using a standard bohning blazer vane with 2 degree left helical. So I don’t think I’m getting much drag, nor are my arrows crazy heavy. If I were to shoot in the lower 400 TAW my lines on my sight tape would be far too close on the closer distances… which has its pros and cons
 
I’m not using any of their tapes, none of them work lol. I’m using their custom tape builder, but it’s the sight in tape
1…5…10…15…20, so on and so forth.
You select the number that correlates to the distance and input it in their tape builder.

I’m using a standard bohning blazer vane with 2 degree left helical. So I don’t think I’m getting much drag, nor are my arrows crazy heavy. If I were to shoot in the lower 400 TAW my lines on my sight tape would be far too close on the closer distances… which has its pros and cons
I haven't messed with their program, so I can't say why you're having issues. If you have a chronograph it can help alleviate shooter error.
 
I haven't messed with their program, so I can't say why you're having issues. If you have a chronograph it can help alleviate shooter error.
I’m getting 285-286 FPS with my 475g arrow.

I’ll just reshoot to verify, I guess it could have been some fatigue, but I shot a couple groups afterward and was still dialed.
 

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