Shower head on block wall for tile bathrooom remodel, I need ideas

You have two posts on this forum, both of them taking shots at me. What's your deal?
Literally just signed up here and this was the first thread I saw. Your comment is so ridiculously dumb I had to comment back. So then I looked at your other comments, and (no surprise here) you did it other places as well.
 
I'm with Weiser on this one. Go ceiling mount with a rain head. of course you will still need to bring the pipe down the wall to a temperature control valve but I would think all exposed copper would look fine.

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I'm with Weiser on this one. Go ceiling mount with a rain head. of course you will still need to bring the pipe down the wall to a temperature control valve but I would think all exposed copper would look fine.

View attachment 1034696
This is exactly what I was pointing towards. My mom has one similar with "patina" looking copper and it's really nice.
 
This is exactly what I was pointing towards. My mom has one similar with "patina" looking copper and it's really nice.
Sure, there are many rain heads and such out there that can be put anywhere. The issue here is the valve, not the head, you still require all the piping and a valve on your block wall. As a plumber, the typical shower valve has zero access and it's not even a consideration when plumbing anything from giant custom MC mansions to a shitty remodel. There's no need for access to a shower valve for service.
The exposed valve and piping type showers can look pretty cool, but almost all are typically installed where the water supply TO the exposed valve is hidden .

So I would typically say fir the wall out, expose the floor joists, and I'll be back to plumb it when it ready.
Then tile everything as usual.
If it's an exterior wall, is it below grade or frost concerns? I won't install water in any exterior wall, a firred out wall against it with more insulation and vapor barrier is fine tho.
 
Sure, there are many rain heads and such out there that can be put anywhere. The issue here is the valve, not the head, you still require all the piping and a valve on your block wall. As a plumber, the typical shower valve has zero access and it's not even a consideration when plumbing anything from giant custom MC mansions to a shitty remodel. There's no need for access to a shower valve for service.
The exposed valve and piping type showers can look pretty cool, but almost all are typically installed where the water supply TO the exposed valve is hidden .

So I would typically say fir the wall out, expose the floor joists, and I'll be back to plumb it when it ready.
Then tile everything as usual.
If it's an exterior wall, is it below grade or frost concerns? I won't install water in any exterior wall, a firred out wall against it with more insulation and vapor barrier is fine tho.
Well put, I don't know how to get there, I just know it's nice visually. I'm no carpenter or plumber for sure.
 
Literally just signed up here and this was the first thread I saw. Your comment is so ridiculously dumb I had to comment back. So then I looked at your other comments, and (no surprise here) you did it other places as well.

Are there an impressive number of dumb ass comments around lately? Some from newbies, some from long time people too. I know it's a constant, but the volume seems up.
FFuller- you seem great. I'm sure you'll last a long time here...
 
Are there an impressive number of dumb ass comments around lately? Some from newbies, some from long time people too. I know it's a constant, but the volume seems up.
FFuller- you seem great. I'm sure you'll last a long time here...
Hes already banned .

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I'd be concerned about tile cracking with direct lay over block.

The right way is to fur it out. As far as access, if you use the Kerdi pipe seal on the shower arm you can still change the arm or the head out, even if it's in the wall. As far as the valve, use a quality one and issues can usually be fixed with a cartridge change. Leak test before you cover it up if you want to be sure.

Sometimes there really is no good shortcut.
 
I'd be concerned about tile cracking with direct lay over block.

The right way is to fur it out. As far as access, if you use the Kerdi pipe seal on the shower arm you can still change the arm or the head out, even if it's in the wall. As far as the valve, use a quality one and issues can usually be fixed with a cartridge change. Leak test before you cover it up if you want to be sure.

Sometimes there really is no good shortcut.

So this is the information that I I know but couldn't articulate because Im not a plumber and dont really do it. But like Woods said, if it's a quality valve body, it should never have to come back out, so burying it shouldn't be an issue.

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So this is the information that I I know but couldn't articulate because Im not a plumber and dont really do it. But like Woods said, if it's a quality valve body, it should never have to come back out, so burying it shouldn't be an issue.

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I'm not really a plumber either, but as a residential remodeler I have done some tile showers. Sometimes we work closely with my plumbing sub on them, and sometimes we self perform the plumbing if scheduling calls for it.

When it comes to valves, I would add that the minimum level of quality is Moen or Delta from a supply house, not Lowes or Home Depot. The fixtures in the big box stores are not the same as the supply house line, according to my plumbing sub, and are not serviceable in the same way.
 
Literally just signed up here and this was the first thread I saw. Your comment is so ridiculously dumb I had to comment back. So then I looked at your other comments, and (no surprise here) you did it other places as well.

I remember when I had first beer. I’m a happy drunk, though.
 
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