Show your Tikka ten round groups

[General RE LEE]

20 round group Tikka UPR with 20” Bartlein/143 ELDX handloads

 

[43.6N]

Mid cow hunt zero check today.
Took a spill hiking up a loose shale mud slope.
19 rounds fired.
22creed
Tikka T3
16.25” Wilson barrel chambered by Drew’s Precision
NX8 in NF rings on top of a bonded srs pic rail.
DD LTI

77tmk
42.0gr N555
Aloha brass
3094fps.

 

[walk2112]

Standard T3X 30-06, Sierra Gamechanger 165 TGK 10 round group 100yds

Edit:

This was first rounds through this rifle, did all tikka stock prep minus sanding barrel chamber on factory stock. Torqued stock to specs. Mounted NF SHV 3-10 to torque specs in DNZ 2piece rings, and once I got through boresighting which I’m admittedly not good at, I fired to get on paper a couple times, hit high left. Adjusted elevation lower, fired once more, in line with center of target. Adjusted windage right, and this was the 10 round zero. Best group of my life.

Then, wanted to test if it was the rifle or me, I put an X on left edge, and fired.

That’ll do

Hell yeah! Great feeling when a new rifle does that!

 

[diverc18]

Recently decided to switch to UM tikka rings to try and get rid of another weak point out of my system. Only to discover that I am in fact the weak point in my system at this point in time. I feel like I am struggling to get a consistent cheek weld and grip issues? Unfortunately the public range is only open 2 times a month and you are not allowed to target shoot in the hunting units so I probably won’t be able to shoot anymore groups anytime soon. Current setup is T3x 6.5cm in a Rokstok with a 24in Proof with SRS Ti 3port brake, Um Tikka rings, Maven RS1.2, shooting factory 147s at 2704. Every screw is degreased, paint penned, witness marked, and torqued Form spec. First picture was a 5 shot initial zero, second picture is a 9 round “confirmation” group, third picture is another 9 round group but the dot fell off. All shot prone from bipod and rear bag. Any tips or insights appreciated.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Recently decided to switch to UM tikka rings to try and get rid of another weak point out of my system. Only to discover that I am in fact the weak point in my system at this point in time. I feel like I am struggling to get a consistent cheek weld and grip issues? Unfortunately the public range is only open 2 times a month and you are not allowed to target shoot in the hunting units so I probably won’t be able to shoot anymore groups anytime soon. Current setup is T3x 6.5cm in a Rokstok with a 24in Proof with SRS Ti 3port brake, Um Tikka rings, Maven RS1.2, shooting factory 147s at 2704. Every screw is degreased, paint penned, witness marked, and torqued Form spec. First picture was a 5 shot initial zero, second picture is a 9 round “confirmation” group, third picture is another 9 round group but the dot fell off. All shot prone from bipod and rear bag. Any tips or insights appreciated.

How big is your dot?

Unless you are not allowed to use a suppressor, using a suppressor is the number one thing you can do to make your rifle easier to shoot well.

 

[diverc18]

How big is your dot?

Unless you are not allowed to use a suppressor, using a suppressor is the number one thing you can do to make your rifle easier to shoot well.

1.5 inch dot. No suppressors unfortunately

 

[Moose83]

Looks to me like you have too much lateral pressure with your cheek weld... been fighting this myself lately.

 

[Oddfellow]

Tikka T3X CTR .260 Rem.
Stainless w/20” barrel
Hornady ELD Match 130 gr

First shot was the bottom left hole.
Moved it up 1 MOA, and got the top left hole.
Moved it back down 1/4 MOA, and moved it 1/4 MOA right.
I then shot the ten shot group. That is a 1/2” dot in the center.
One of the best shooting rifles that I have ever owned.

 

[atmat]

Recently decided to switch to UM tikka rings to try and get rid of another weak point out of my system. Only to discover that I am in fact the weak point in my system at this point in time. I feel like I am struggling to get a consistent cheek weld and grip issues? Unfortunately the public range is only open 2 times a month and you are not allowed to target shoot in the hunting units so I probably won’t be able to shoot anymore groups anytime soon. Current setup is T3x 6.5cm in a Rokstok with a 24in Proof with SRS Ti 3port brake, Um Tikka rings, Maven RS1.2, shooting factory 147s at 2704. Every screw is degreased, paint penned, witness marked, and torqued Form spec. First picture was a 5 shot initial zero, second picture is a 9 round “confirmation” group, third picture is another 9 round group but the dot fell off. All shot prone from bipod and rear bag. Any tips or insights appreciated.

I would try without the brake. I shoot worse with brakes anticipating the blowback and noise.

 

[Tandin93]

Tikka T3x 22-250
Berger FB Varmint
There are 10 shots there, I just missed one with the shot marker.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Pwb199]

Tikka 260 AI
43.5 H4350
130 TGK
20 rounds

Measures right at an inch

 

[wind gypsy]

Recently decided to switch to UM tikka rings to try and get rid of another weak point out of my system. Only to discover that I am in fact the weak point in my system at this point in time. I feel like I am struggling to get a consistent cheek weld and grip issues? Unfortunately the public range is only open 2 times a month and you are not allowed to target shoot in the hunting units so I probably won’t be able to shoot anymore groups anytime soon. Current setup is T3x 6.5cm in a Rokstok with a 24in Proof with SRS Ti 3port brake, Um Tikka rings, Maven RS1.2, shooting factory 147s at 2704. Every screw is degreased, paint penned, witness marked, and torqued Form spec. First picture was a 5 shot initial zero, second picture is a 9 round “confirmation” group, third picture is another 9 round group but the dot fell off. All shot prone from bipod and rear bag. Any tips or insights appreciated.

Don't use a hard cheek weld unless you're absolutely consistent with it.

 

[Flymost]

Finally have something to show here, nothing fancy, but a good start. Today’s job was to determine which rifle to get chopped and threaded. (I have two T3X 6.5 prc stainless). The three “off shots” in the bottom left were sighting in the new rifle. Bottom left 9 shots 1.2” 147 eldm H1000. Top left 5 shots 156B, N565 new rifle. .83”. Bottom right old rifle 5 shots 147 eldm H1000 1.1” and I’m pretty sure I didn’t pull the two high shots. Top 5 old rifle 156b and N565. .75”. More shift in this one. Also shot the SWFA 3-15 and the maven side by side and would gladly take either.

So, which one to keep stock and which should I chop?

 

[hereinaz]

Finally have something to show here, nothing fancy, but a good start. Today’s job was to determine which rifle to get chopped and threaded. (I have two T3X 6.5 prc stainless). The three “off shots” in the bottom left were sighting in the new rifle. Bottom left 9 shots 1.2” 147 eldm H1000. Top left 5 shots 156B, N565 new rifle. .83”. Bottom right old rifle 5 shots 147 eldm H1000 1.1” and I’m pretty sure I didn’t pull the two high shots. Top 5 old rifle 156b and N565. .75”. More shift in this one. Also shot the SWFA 3-15 and the maven side by side and would gladly take either.

So, which one to keep stock and which should I chop?

Shoot 30 round groups and I bet the two rifles become even more similar.

Is the new one too good to maybe screw up?
Is the old one gonna get better?

I would choo and thread both…