Should Skim Bed Kimber Montana?

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About 6 weeks ago I picked up a used Montana in 7mm08, it is in great condition and functions flawlessly. I have made a few trips to the range with it thus far and its put everything into 1.5 - 2" groupls with 2 types od factory and then 4 different bullets and two powder combinations. My last two range trips were with 140 partitions and big game powder, last week with standard primers and today I tried mag primers just to see if there was any change. Both times i had a 1.5" near perfect vertical string with very consistent velocity at 2825 fps. It feels like if I can get the vertical string under control this could be a sweet little load.

I removed a small amount from the barrel channel and I can run a business card all the way to the action, checked the mag box for binding, front action clscrew and scope mount length. I take care to make sure my front rest sits back where the barrel meets the action to prevent and stock/barrel contact, is skim bedding the lug and tang the next step or should I look elsewhere?

Thanks fellas
 
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Forgot to mention, giving 4-5 min between each shot, barrel was cool to the touch at each shot
 
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Thanks 16bore, that could very well be the most detailed bedding thread in the history of the interweb, appreciate the link.
 

Ozz08

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I just bought a kimber Montana 84L in .270 win. about 3 weeks ago. I haven't had a chance to shoot the rifle yet but will start a barrel break in within the next couple weeks. I'm primarily a bow hunter but decided to start getting second choice rifle deer tags for the years I can't draw my preferred archery deer tag. Did I spend over $1k on a brand new rifle just to have to get all of this work done to get the thing to shoot accurately?
 

16Bore

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I wouldn't worry. Brand new 270 Win, no bedding,10 rounds left in the box.

 
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Did I spend over $1k on a brand new rifle just to have to get all of this work done to get the thing to shoot accurately?

You should carry a 9lb rifle around for a few years and then come back and ask that question.

The Montanas are great rifles. I don't mind doing a little tinkering on them if need be.
 

GKPrice

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it would appear that you have already watched <Montana tinkering> on youtube but if not do that - Montana's are "fairly" easy usually to get "good hunting accuracy" but if it's benchrest type accuracy you're looking for roll up your sleeves - Bang for the buck there's no factory lightweight hunting rifle or semi-custom that can match weight vs. accuracy on a regulary basis for near what the Kimbers cost and if you don't mind magazines the Hunters look like they'll be more of the same, to have the details that a Kimber has like the model 70 safety, a very nice trigger, CRF and Kevlar stock Kimbers are in a class pretty much all by themselves - If you know a good gunsmith that will do it, for $200 - $300 +/- pay him to tinker with it and still be under cost for that class of rifle
 
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Thanks GK, I have seen the montana tinkering posts and with the exception of bedding I believe everything else has been checked/addressed. I picked this up at a good price with the idea of a tinkering and reloading project for the winter, it has so far met that purppose. Actually dont mind messing around with loads over the winter to try and find something that will shoot well, just wondering if I should look at bedding before putting too much more energy into reloads. For this rifle, a consistent 1 MOA with a solid performing bullet would make me pretty happy.
 

GKPrice

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I'll bet you find a good load or two before you're done - a negative full contact full length bedding job is what Melvin Forbes always does with his customs and they are renowned for rifle to rifle consistency - Don't get over absorbed in a long OAL either or heavy for caliber Bergers and such - A Nosler Accubond or Swift Scirocco might surprise you - check the crown too, since it's a pre-owned - there were some Montana's that suffered from a weak firing pin spring also, if you call Kimber's CS dept and insist that yours is one of the weak ones they might just send you a replacement and if that happens you'll note that the new one is longer than the one that came in it - In an ultra light rifle lock time can make a huge difference from the bench
 

Stid2677

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I'll add a couple recommendations, I would make sure the barrel is clean and copper free. IMHO, setting the trigger to no more than 3lbs improves accuracy, I like mine about 2.5 for a hunting rig,,, all the safety stuff etc... The other issue is stock screw torque,, I got this from Kimber CS,, Kimber Montana rifle:

The torque settings are 45 in/lbs on the front screw and 35 in/lbs on the rear screw. Slightly snug the front and rear screw down and then tighten the front followed by the rear screw.

Steve
 
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Thanks guys - I will check the torque on the stock, I believe its at 40 and 35 but would need to double check that and I will give it another thourough clean. O do have the trigger down to 2.5 lbs, it came to me with a 4lb pull which is just didnt work for me. The crown looks good to me but I may have my smith look at it too, someone with a better trained eye may see something that I am not.
 

GKPrice

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Thanks guys - I will check the torque on the stock, I believe its at 40 and 35 but would need to double check that and I will give it another thourough clean. O do have the trigger down to 2.5 lbs, it came to me with a 4lb pull which is just didnt work for me. The crown looks good to me but I may have my smith look at it too, someone with a better trained eye may see something that I am not.

stid2677 can give you a whole bunch of insights re: Kimber rifles
 

HiMtnHntr

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Stid gives good advice.... what scope are you running? What powders have you tried? I've had good luck with Varget in that caliber.
 
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Right now it has a Leupold VX2 4-12x40 CDS. I have tried Varger and Big Game powder, I have a fair bit of IMR 4350 which was next on the list. I have tried 120 BT's, 140 AB's, 139 SST's and 140 NPT. Am thinking of trying a flat based bullet next as well if anyone has any good flat based. Bullets they may reccomend trying.
 

GKPrice

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Right now it has a Leupold VX2 4-12x40 CDS. I have tried Varger and Big Game powder, I have a fair bit of IMR 4350 which was next on the list. I have tried 120 BT's, 140 AB's, 139 SST's and 140 NPT. Am thinking of trying a flat based bullet next as well if anyone has any good flat based. Bullets they may reccomend trying.

I did a 7-08 Ruger American work up with Sierra Pro Hunter 140's - kid killed his first elk (cow) at 150 yards - bullets were accurate enough
but I personally like 140 Accubonds for the 7mm-08 - RL-15, Varget are out of pocket powders and there are a lot of others that work well - do you use the Nosler loading manual ? Mag primers are not necessary in the 7-08, won't hurt anything but unless you're using ball powders they'll not be very useful although they won't really hurt anything either- I've had best luck with 210 & 210M primers myself
 
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A quick update on this, I did end up skim bedding the action and crown polished up by my smith as following stock torque recommendations
Stid provided, which showed some improvement. Yesterday I shot a ladder 120 TTSX with Ramshot Big Game powder, all of the 4 different powder charges produced groups at or just below MOA at 100 yds....finally. This rifle has a pretty short throat and with this bullet I am just touching the lands at 2.800 so starting per Barnes recommendations (0.050 jump) I am at 2.750, no room to seat deeper but I may try seating a bit closer to the lands to see if I can improve any. Of course my chrono battery dies on the first group yesterday but I should be right at 3K fps. I can say this rifle is pretty darn picky with loads however I am somewhat to blame as I continue to learn how this rifle likes to be held from the bench. I will likely circle back around to some 140's but a 120 TTSX at 3K fps would do anything I had planned for this rifle. Thanks to everyone who jumped in on this thread!
 

16Bore

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Every Barnes I've ever loaded has been money with the front of the first driving band even with the case mouth. 6x45, 260, 270, 30-06, 7-08, 338, 375, 7 RM. I'll take a properly prepared case at the proper OAL and seat the bullet by eye until it's flush. Measure with a comparator and that's the length it stays. Worked every time.
 
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