Should I go the cheap route or not

[RockAndSage]

Tikka, and put the difference in cost toward some great glass/rings, and a pile of ammo.

 

[Eleven]

There’s cheap and then there’s inexpensive. I wouldn’t say a tikka is cheap.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

In my book, Tikka isn’t cheap, it’s mid-grade. The basic Tikka is very good. It does everything well. I don’t regret any of my Tikka rifles.

If I can’t get it done with one of my Tikka’s, I probably just can’t get it done.

Very much this… there’s no need to swap out anything on a basic Tikka or Sauer. Out of the box, the essential components - action, trigger, and barrel - are better than anything in the same price range. And, frankly, better than a lot of options in the next class up.

It is entirely possible to go crazy upgrading a Tikka. Mine has a wooden RokStok and stainless steel bottom metal. Then add in the suppressor and optic and you go from $500 all in to $4000 in a hurry.

But for a basic hunting rifle, a Tikka or Sauer in .243/6.5 CM/6.5 PRC ($400-500) with an SWFA 3-9x40 ($600), and an Airlock ZG 6.5 or OG 6.5 is going to put you just under $2000. And going with an AB A-10 instead of the titanium option knocks a few hundred off that.

I also agree with Chris in Tennessee that the level between $1000 and $2000 isn’t really worth it on a new rifle. Spring for a Sako at $2200-2800 if you don’t like the basic Tikka or Sauer. But those basic rifles are so good that it’s hard for me to justify a Sako (as nice as they are). The Sako is basically a Tikka with an integral picatinny mount instead of a rail, nicer wood, and a steel magazine instead of a synthetic one.

If I am going above the Tikka or Sauer, I am looking on GunBroker for second hand rifles (Sako, Mauser, Steyr, CZ, etc.).

On the Tikka… The synthetic stock isn’t my favorite, but that’s true of any synthetic stock. The “regular one” has a longer LOP than I prefer (I am 5’10” 180). The compact stock fits me better. The $20 vertical grip is just about the only upgrade I would consider for a first rifle.

Or, if you don’t like the synthetic stock, get the basic version on sale and keep an eye out for a wooden stock on the classifieds (usually $150-175). I think you can save $50-100 that way (if that’s important to you). Or just get a wooden stocked version for a bit more. I have OEM wooden stocks on a Tikka and a Sauer and both are very nice. Not collector grade walnut, but excellent fit and finish for a hunting rifle.

The synthetic magazines for the Tikka may not look the greatest, but they are durable and reliable (except for the OEM 6-round .223 Tikka magazines). And there are a host of aftermarket magazines out there for the Tikka (Waters are far and away the best, NDR next, and MambaMags after that).

 

[rdramsey8]

Both Tikka and Bergara make great factory rifles with ton of aftermarket support if you decide to make changes to better fit the rifle to your needs. I would definitely consider 6.5 Creed for a first rifle.

 

[Kauaihunter]

A Tikka is perfectly usable out of the box. I’ve taken my 300 WSM Tikka to a mile changing nothing but adding the vertical grip module.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

This

There is no “need” to change anything if you decide to go with a Tikka. Just buy good mounts and a decent scope to start and shoot it. Get someone that knows fundamentals to watch you and give you pointers. Test out ammo to find the right one. Go hunting.

 

[Kauaihunter]

Cheap starter as in total cost, not products.

Sauer 100 XT 6.5PRC at EO $469.99
Trijicon Huron 3x9x40 at PSA $349
Remington 700 bases $50
Good rings $100

Right around $1000 total.

 

[kpk]

I just priced out putting together a custom and decided I'll just keep buying Tikka barrels instead (I already have 3 actions and all bolts). The additional cost to go custom vs the performance return on that investment just isn't worth it to me right now.

I picked up one of the Bergara WIlderness Ridges a few weeks ago when Fleet Farm had them on a massive sale. Seemed like a nice rifle, but felt very heavy in comparison to Tikka.

On mine I spray the stock with some Rustoleum multi color stuff (found on a thread here somewhere) and it gives them a nice color and ton of grip. I don't mind the stock as long as it's got the vertical grip and it's been sprayed.

 

[bnewt3]

I second going with 6.5 Creedmoor for your first rifle. Nearly as good ballistics as 6.5PRC(mostly the same bullets), a bit less recoil(youll likely shoot better), FAR more ammo options and significantly cheaper ammo, I havent heard of 6.5 PRC being as picky about ammo as 7PRC, but 6.5 Creedmoor in general is the least picky of the 3.

Practice, practice, practice.

To clarify something I said earlier:
The Tikka synthetic stock is absolutely useable as-is. Im still running the factory stock on mine. But its has zero bells or whistles aside from the interchangeable grip. Zero features also keeps the weight down. I did add a Limbsaver recoil pad as the factory one is pitiful and a pouch/slight cheek riser.

 

[B100DHOUND]

I just priced out putting together a custom and decided I'll just keep buying Tikka barrels instead (I already have 3 actions and all bolts). The additional cost to go custom vs the performance return on that investment just isn't worth it to me right now.

I picked up one of the Bergara WIlderness Ridges a few weeks ago when Fleet Farm had them on a massive sale. Seemed like a nice rifle, but felt very heavy in comparison to Tikka.

On mine I spray the stock with some Rustoleum multi color stuff (found on a thread here somewhere) and it gives them a nice color and ton of grip. I don't mind the stock as long as it's got the vertical grip and it's been sprayed.

That’s an awesome idea spraying the stock. I would love to see a picture and maybe a link to purchase said spray


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kpk]

That’s an awesome idea spraying the stock. I would love to see a picture and maybe a link to purchase said spray


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's an aggressive texture and there is a bit of technique to applying it. I'd practice spraying something with super light passes approx 15" away. I think I used a green scotch brite and alcohol for prep. Finished with a matte clear. (it doesn't cover well either, I think I usually end up using about a can and half)

It looks nice and holds up well IME. Now, If we could get someone to 3d print the varmint stock cheek rest.....