sewing machine

[adirondak5]

Yea , Stid2677's advice is on the money , here's a link to a youtube video showing some box stitching on webbing and lifting the foot with the needle down for nice crisp corners , I tried this method and it works pretty good

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y03wcd_Z1G4

I've been using this thread for practice with webbing and 500D Cordura , I have not broken it yet , its pretty tough stuff , they recommend an 18 needle , I've been using a 16 with no problems so far

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IBRIN2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[husky390]

Tried it with a bigger needle and it's a no go, still breaking thread. Guess I'll need to find an older, sturdier machine since this one wont do the job. I'll hang onto it for sewing silnylon stuff.

 

[Stid2677]

Tried it with a bigger needle and it's a no go, still breaking thread. Guess I'll need to find an older, sturdier machine since this one wont do the job. I'll hang onto it for sewing silnylon stuff.

Make sure to double check your upper threading and tension, loosen the tension and make sure the foot is down and pull some thread through. You may have too much tension.

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

I'm not sure that having a different machine would prevent thread from breaking. In my limited experience when I over load my machine it simply bogs down and won't punch through the material.

 

[Stid2677]

I'm not sure that having a different machine would prevent thread from breaking. In my limited experience when I over load my machine it simply bogs down and won't punch through the material.

I own 4 machines and bought each to do better than the other and SIZE DOES matter. The new sailrite machine I bought will plow right through material that took me hours and many broken needles to do before I bought the big machine.

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

If the the needles aren't breaking though how does a better machine keep thread from breaking? Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to understand so I can present my case to my wife on a better machine.

 

[husky390]

If the the needles aren't breaking though how does a better machine keep thread from breaking? Not trying to be argumentative, just trying to understand so I can present my case to my wife on a better machine.

I'm basing my thoughts on the bigger is better premise. My settings are maxed out yet I'm still having issues. If I back off of the thread tension, I get a rats nest under the fabric. So, I'm thinking a bigger old plain jane singer should work.

Those Sailrite machines look nice.

 

[adirondak5]

I own 4 machines and bought each to do better than the other and SIZE DOES matter. The new sailrite machine I bought will plow right through material that took me hours and many broken needles to do before I bought the big machine.

Stid2677 , what Sailrite machine do you have if you don't mind me asking? What are your thoughts on it ? I've seen a few of them around for sale , was wondering about them .

 

[Stid2677]

Stid2677 , what Sailrite machine do you have if you don't mind me asking? What are your thoughts on it ? I've seen a few of them around for sale , was wondering about them .

I have the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 PREMIUM Walking Foot Sewing Machine,, that 5 pound flywheel will drive that needle through about anything. Can be used without electricity, zig zag, just an awesome machine. The binder attachment makes binding a breeze.

 

[adirondak5]

Thanks for the info Stid , that's a nice machine

 

[adirondak5]

Another pullout made out of 500D urethane coated cordura in multicam , got some bulk coiled #8 ykk zipper tape and pulls from rockywoods , I used # 3 zippers on my last pullouts but I wanted something a bit more heavy duty , a little wider tape on the #8 , easy to cut to length , easy to install slider , used multicam webbing for the tabs on each end of the pullout and T-70 (#69) bonded nylon thread , 3 mm paracord for zipper pull , probably around $3. in materials in this pullout

 

[mtswampfox]

a FWIW .the bobbin holder on the old singer locked up other day. no tension at all on the arm to lock the bobbin to the machine. took in to local repair guy who called to inform it was just dirty. soaked it in some kind of solvent and blew it out and it came back to life. all for the small fee of $45.00. being a diy'er this is very embarrassing and shows the intimidation factor of the old singer.

 

[elkbowkevin]

I have a Singer Scholastic, and this thing is a MONSTER, probably every adjustment and stitch in the sewing arsena. I will be using it allot this winter and spring. My monm got it for my wife as a wedding gift but she hardly ever uses it. I used it a couple months back to make some cloth diapers....

First hunting related project will be a pack cover for my HH full curl system. Then sewing on a 10' sipper for a huntingcondo (tent) that needs repaired. Then will make some gear sacks to keep my hunt trunks organized.
Uhhh, ya,,, I am a sewer, I love it... Ok so I admitted it..
Glad there is a support group here on RS. LOL

 

[William Hanson (live2hunt)]

Uhhh, ya,,, I am a sewer, I love it... Ok so I admitted it..
Glad there is a support group here on RS. LOL

Lol Rokslide got me into sewing and I've been surprised how much I enjoy it too.

 

[airlocksniffer]

This thread and my wife's barely used sewing machine (Brother 'Project Runway' edition) has inspired me to give sewing a try. I ordered the $10 DIY box from RipStopByTheRoll.com for my first projects. I figure if I'm not into it no big investment. I have a feeling I'm going to like it though....

Stay tuned for many basic sewing questions.

 

[Hunt'nFish]

I know what you guys mean. Rokslide DIY rules!!!
Glad to see others catching the sewing bug.
You should see the looks I get from the gals at the sew shops when I walk in looking for clearance material and thread.
And if you've ever seen me, you'd know why.
Half of them probably think I'm there to ROB the place.

Um, wow. Sewing has to be one of the most aggravating things I've tried. Any idea's as to why I keep breaking the needle thread and the bottom thread is birdsnesting on my test fabric? The plus side, I've about memorized the pattern to thread the machine.

Birds nesting on the bottom typically means not enough top tension.
But I also read your posts further down suggesting your breaking thread???

Hum.... I can't imagine breaking thread.
When sewing webbing & cordura, your running nylon upholstery thread on a #16 universal needle .... right?
Sharp needles also help.
I personally don't think a different machine will solve your problems.
Make sure your needle is designed for the thread your running.
Needle point shape and thread eye hole all need to work together w/ a particular thread and material.
The other thing is make sure the machine is threaded right....I've made that mistake before.

But if you do step up, I give a thumbs up to the Pfaff Select 3 & 4.
I have a 2166 Jeans & Satin model which is identical as far I can see.
Love the 2spd pedal. In low gear I can't even stall the wheel by hand.
and the IDT top feed (similar to a walking foot), is really nice when working w/ thin, slick materials.
I've seen them new for a little as $300 and as much as $1000.
I found my 2166 used for $30.... Yes, a steal!

But all this said, my "current" favorite machine is an old 50's era Brother Select-O-Matic w/ a Wizard badge. Big, all metal, w/ zig-zag and manual reverse lever (Can't stand the push & hold reverse buttons on the newer machines. I sew backwards a lot and to lock stiches). I also like it's heavy weight when working with cordura, as a big wad of fabric doesn't push & slide the machine, it stays PUT! And honestly, I don't need a bunch of fancy stitches, straight & zig-zag are about all I use.
Hunt'nFish

 

[coop2424]

Thanks for all the pointers and pics I really enjoy it. I am getting some remnants of cordura from my moms work to mess around with and see if I can make something worthwhile..

 

[Ray]

I have a newer Husky. Even though the dealer said it could sew cordura, it struggles. There is no bobbin tension adjustment which is very important when sewing thicker materials.

Find an older machine with steel gears and make sure you can adjust the bobbin thread tension.

So far with my fancy Husky this has been my only issue. The bobbin tension is pre set and is not adjustable. This is very important when sewing heavier material or through two pieces of webbing and cordura. I need to go into the sewing shop and talk to the ladies to find out if there is a hidden screw to adjust the bobbin tension. For a machine this costly - bought it for the daughter but she lost interest in sewing quickly - I would have expected it to have the same, if not better, adjustablity as the old Singers I learned on when a kid. Yup, my mom made me learn how to sew when I was real little, and I have freaked people out with those skills.

I was given an old Singer back in the 1990's. It had been in the shop a few times, but would loose its bobbin tension within about 20 feet of stitches. The shop would "repair" it for $50, and then one or two projects later it was not working again. I can't recall the model number, but it was one of the first Singers to move to plastic gearing in the early 1960's or late 1950's. I gave it away after getting the fancy Husky.

Ray, so there isn't a small tension adj screw on the bobbin holder "thingy"?
Hunt'nFish

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaH9yB7XUBk

On my husky I have not been able to see one. Its a home grade machine and the bobbins are plastic. There is no screw visible down in the bobbin holder system. The owner's manual contains no reference to adjusting bobbin tension on this model other than to say its pre set. However, there is bound to be something hidden in there that could be adjusted. I just have to ask the right person at the shop.

UPDATE: My machine is a top bobbin style which does not have a bobbin case as shown in nearly all videos for adjusting bobbin tension. There was only one video that had any advice for anything other than embroidery machines.

The plastic carrier that holds the bobbin has two small screws. The farthest left screw is for adjusting the spring tension. A smidge of a turn to the left and the tension is adjusted lower to allow for the thicker thread and increased friction of the muliple layers of material. It took me three test sews with two layers of 500D and one layer of webbing before I found a setting that showed correct finished thread positions. During set up it helps to use contrasting threads so you can easily see which tension needs to be changed.

Use this link for helpful infor for how to adjust your machine. It has a few images that explain the basics.

This link provides lots of details, but does not have images. It does have a helpful explaintion for how to adjust a top bobbin machine that does not have a bobbin case.

 

[husky390]

Huntnfish, I'm using an 18 needle with a heavy duty upholstery thread. I'll have to try a 16 needle and see if that helps. I was able to stitch a border around the fabric and that's as far as I got since hunting season caught up to me. It actually worked pretty well as I didn't want to screw with a blaze orange pack cover and was able to lay this on top of my pack and then secure it with the packs compression straps. It worked pretty well but I still want to sew cordura to it.

 

[Beendare]

I'm bumping this old thread to add to the knowledge base.

I got frustrated with sewing- but its due to the new $150 singer I got for xmas a few years back-its a POS. These guys are right! When talking to the experts at the sewing shops, Singer hasn't made a quality machine since 1960. Don't even waste your money on a new cheapie machine.

I did the used machine and it worked good for a short time- a 1952 singer [in a cool vintage green color] but it was going to cost me a bunch to fix it so I just broke down and bought the Juki TL-2010Q. Simple, straight stitch, speed control- easy! More than I wanted to spend but after playing with it at the shop I was hooked- it works great with silnylon- no bunching and it will handle some heavier stuff too. I got tired of having to glue the sil- and then it would bunch anyway. I was going to get an older industrial machine but then it doesn't do the thin stuff well- so I spent the $$$ to avoid the aggravation.

good database to thread and needle sizes at link
http://www.sailrite.com/PDF/Thread%20and%20Needle%20Recommendations.pdf

[I've learned this the hard way] The main thread size for home sewing is v-30 and most of that at sewing shops is not suitable for outdoor products- it rots and wicks moisture...... as some of you guys mentioned the heavier threads are better. V-46 and V-69 are going to be better for the stuff we do but the higher sizes were giving my first 2 machines fits sometimes- I think it was a bobbin tension thing.

FWIW, My sewing machine guru recommended I try the V-46 for most stuff- personally, I didn't know there was a mid range size thread. It can be a bit difficult to find though Sailrite carries it in white only. Guetermann makes speacilty thread that doesn't wick moisture- at link
https://www.guetermann.com/medias/sys_master/8864930856990/Seam_competence_MaraWA_EN.pdf