Scope Ring Predicament... Talley, NF, or Leupold

[CoHunter1991]

I am in a predicament with my Weatherby Backcountry 280ai. Currently running Talley UL on it and I am rethinking that choice after having a set of Talleys break on a 3006 over the summer. Will I have an overall better / more accurate/ more reliable platform if I go to a Nightforce rail and ring system (6oz more weight)? do I move to the Leupold Backcountry rings? or do I leave it alone since I have had no issues? Thanks for any advice you have for a relative newbie.

 

[deadwolf]

Ill admit I’m am very biased, but if you go with the nightforce rail and rings you won’t ever worry about this issue again. ; )


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[Wapiti1]

The Leupold are a better design for an integrated ring/base. I would go that route, but bed the base to the action when mounting. Or look at DNZ for that action. Unfortunately Hawkins doesn't make rings for that action.

A rail with rings is fine as well, but adds a connection that isn't needed unless you want or need extra elevation in the base.

Jeremy

 

[CoHunter1991]

Deadwolf - That is what I expect but do you think there is an accuracy and consistency benefit over the other two options?

Wapiti1 - I looked at those Hawkins and was bummed to see they didn't make rings for the Weatherby. I have never heard of the DNZ, looks interesting. Are they a better option compared to two ring set or the Ring and Rail?

 

[CoHunter1991]

The Leupold are a better design for an integrated ring/base. I would go that route, but bed the base to the action when mounting. Or look at DNZ for that action. Unfortunately Hawkins doesn't make rings for that action.

A rail with rings is fine as well, but adds a connection that isn't needed unless you want or need extra elevation in the base.

Jeremy

Also for what I have read you cannot bed the Leupold Backcountry rings because you cannot guarantee they are bedded to the same height? is that the case?

 

[deadwolf]

Deadwolf - That is what I expect but do you think there is an accuracy and consistency benefit over the other two options?

Wapiti1 - I looked at those Hawkins and was bummed to see they didn't make rings for the Weatherby. I have never heard of the DNZ, looks interesting. Are they a better option compared to two ring set or the Ring and Rail?

“Accuracy and consistency”….what I know is that my experience with nightforce bases and rings has shown that they provide a rock solid foundation for mounting your optic, the very thing that you want to work flawlessly when you need it to. That in turn will assist in providing you with that accuracy and consistency. In regards to what Wapiti said about the need for a base, you do not “need” a scope ring base unless you are looking for extra cant, I agree 100%. However, what a scope base can provide, even outside of cant, is more flexibility in where your scope can be mounted forward or back, assisting in giving you perfect eye relief, and getting the rings spread out where they work the best. Rings that directly screw down to your receiver can be limiting in that aspect. If I were going to skip the pic rail and go direct to receiver, Hawkins would be a great choice.

Personally, I wouldn’t touch any leupold rings, although I did have good luck with the old Mark 4 steel rings, but who wants to lug those around with all the better options we have today.


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[deadwolf]

Also for what I have read you cannot bed the Leupold Backcountry rings because you cannot guarantee they are bedded to the same height? is that the case?

Couldn’t answer that, I have never bedded a set of rings or a pic rail. People better than me have shown it’s not necessary. A high quality set of rings and/or rail, torqued properly, with a little blue loctite works great.


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[CoHunter1991]

Awesome I appreciate the feedback. I am likely going to switch my setup. I need it to be rock solid because I am not a perfect shooter. Of course Nightforce does not make a rail for the Weatherby 6 lug action. Any good suggestions? I have heard Murphy precision is top notch.

 

[Wapiti1]

Deadwolf - That is what I expect but do you think there is an accuracy and consistency benefit over the other two options?

Wapiti1 - I looked at those Hawkins and was bummed to see they didn't make rings for the Weatherby. I have never heard of the DNZ, looks interesting. Are they a better option compared to two ring set or the Ring and Rail?

DNZ rings are well made and use a thick design. They are a bit chunky looking, but stout.

Are they better? The Leupold integral rings are nicely machined as well, and I've not seen or heard of them failing. The top cap is a stronger design than the Talley.

A two piece setup with a rail and ring set is tried and true. Nightforce makes top end ones as does Leupold, Warne, If you don't want to swap scopes, or need elevation in the rail, I do think the integral is a better setup. That said, I've never seen separates fail when they were put together correctly. One possible negative with a rail is height. You may end up higher than you want due to either the extra height of the rail, or the scope bell hits the front of the rail if you don't use high rings. This is for a one piece rail. If you go two piece bases, then height may work out better.

Jeremy

Also for what I have read you cannot bed the Leupold Backcountry rings because you cannot guarantee they are bedded to the same height? is that the case?

That is true unless you use a bar or the scope as a guide. I use a steel bar. Apply compound to the front base, screw it on with release agent on the screws and snug it down. Clean the compound with a q-tip. Put the rear on with compound and put in the screws, but do not snug it down. The screws are only for alignment.

Put the bar (or scope) in the rings, and snug down the front cap. The bar will press the rear ring into position.

Clean the compound with a q-tip, and check it in half hour or so to clean again. Acetone helps with the final cleanup. Let it cure for a couple of hours (I use only slow cure epoxy), and then pull the cap and bar out. Break the base screws loose and work them so they are free. You can usually remove them completely at this point and let it finish curing.

Typically, the front ring is the high spot verse the rear bridge. Not always, but most of the time.

Jeremy

 

[Wapiti1]

You don't have to bed them, but it's not hard and is good insurance for alignment. Older (>20 years) actions are usually not square like actions made on CNC equipment are today.

Jeremy

 

[Laelkhunter]

Thread is a little old, but on my Weatherby, I went with the Murphy Precision Ti rail, and Ken Farrell rings.