Scope mounting loctite or not?

Ram94

WKR
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
635
Exactly!! You keep doing you and I'll keep doing me. Never told anyone not to do anything just pointing out how I do it. Also I was responding to the guy that posted this originally. I understand if it works for you keep doing it. If I encountered a problem throughout the years with loose rings I would've changed the way I do things.

Really? Don't give the kid the wrong info. I've been hunting over 40 years and in my state we use slug guns and muzzleloaders. Their recoil energy make a 300 win mag look like a .243. Guess what I've never had a scope vibrate loose. My trophy room can verify if you'd like. Loctite all bases and lightly oil your ring screws.
Like somehow taking an extra step as a precaution is dangerous advice.
 

CampSmith

FNG
Joined
Feb 8, 2024
Messages
81
Like somehow taking an extra step as a precaution is dangerous advice.
Ok already lighten up lol. Here we go again, Ugh! I made a recommendation and someone pretty much said don't do it his way. Why not just say that may work for him but this is the way I do it. You sure this is a pro 2A site. Cause some of you guys are acting like lefty's.
 

Axlrod

WKR
Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
1,191
Location
SW Montana
Here's Warne Mountain Tech 30mm rings on a 7lb hunt ready weight ultralight muzzleloader. Recoil energy is a stout 46 ftlbs. I set that up the same way over 10 years ago 25 inlbs on the 4 cap screws each ring and 65 inlbs in the base clamp nut. Still shoots lights out. No loctite on the rings. View attachment 702238
I hunt hard so my equipment takes a beating.
That's 10 years worth of hunting hard? Seriously??
 

TaperPin

WKR
Joined
Jul 12, 2023
Messages
2,030
Like somehow taking an extra step as a precaution is dangerous advice.
Do you Loctite the action screws? How about spark plugs? No, because it’s not needed. Loctite whatever you want, but it’s as silly as bead lock rims to drive down forest service roads.

Nothing on the rifle is as easy to re torque as the ring screws - this concept is ridiculously easy to test for yourself by simply checking the ring torque on every rifle you own to see if they have loosened up. They never do - it’s not a thing.
 

TaperPin

WKR
Joined
Jul 12, 2023
Messages
2,030
To the guys with work trucks and tools that are beat to hell, those of us doing the exact same work with a clean truck and properly cared for tools see a few seconds of laziness as the only thing separating us. My rifles look look good because I keep the metal and wood off the rocks - it literally takes 5 seconds to put a hat or glove down - the only thing separating the beat up rifles from those that aren’t are a few seconds of laziness.
 

Ram94

WKR
Joined
Jul 24, 2019
Messages
635
Do you Loctite the action screws? How about spark plugs? No, because it’s not needed. Loctite whatever you want, but it’s as silly as bead lock rims to drive down forest service roads.

Nothing on the rifle is as easy to re torque as the ring screws - this concept is ridiculously easy to test for yourself by simply checking the ring torque on every rifle you own to see if they have loosened up. They never do - it’s not a thing.
Action screws yes, spark plugs no, that’s insane.
 

2-Stix

WKR
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
467
To confirm my post earlier.... we definitely have ROAL Reaper 2.0 in this thread.

We have multiple rifle photos, wet screws and dry screws, 4 hanging whitetail, deer on a quad, some weird red rubber thingy...and just when we thought we would never see another ROAL reaper...gotta love rokslide.

PS - blue thread locker for the win...I had 1 scope come loose that was degreased and torqued to spec a few years ago.
 
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2-Stix

WKR
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
467
Which screws? Bases, rings?
both get thredlocker.

the rings came loose...it was a set of talley light weights...happy to say none of those are with me anymore.

I now only use rings that I can get to all the screws with the scope mounted and direct to the receiver. No rails...yes Tikka, UM rings and a NF scope. Some call it the Rok cool-aid...I had issue after issue and as I moved from savage to Tikka, issues went away, then from Talley to UM, more issues went away, then from Leupold to NF the rest went away. It was a lot of heartache, frustration and trips to the range burning ammo...but its all behind me. Took about 3 years to have the issues and solve them. Spent 1,000's buying, selling, trips to range, rezero, try different ammo, etc...it was a hard lesson and thanks to this form and Formidilosus, Ryan Avery and others here I found the info, took the advice and made the adjustments.
 
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CampSmith

FNG
Joined
Feb 8, 2024
Messages
81
To confirm my post earlier.... we definitely have ROAL Reaper 2.0 in this thread.

We have multiple rifle photos, wet screws and dry screws, hanging whitetail, some weird red rubber thingy...and just when we thought we would never see another ROAL reaper...gotta love rokslide.

PS - blue thread locker for the win...I had 1 scope come loose that was degreased and torqued to spec a few years ago.
Would you give it a rest , lol. GO GET LAID ALREADY and leave the LOCTITE home. ROAL reaper LOL. Grow up! U still must be in High School.
 

CampSmith

FNG
Joined
Feb 8, 2024
Messages
81
From the guy who turned this thread into his own “look at me” shit show. Take your own already for Christ’s sake.
Not so I never went after anyone here remember that but I'll be dammed if I'll let anyone get away with that shit. Give respect get respect. How i grew up. This post was about giving advice to someone that needed it. I didn't take it here.
 
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