Scope mounting challenges

[deadwolf]

Just because a scope has 86moa doesn't mean you will get to use all of the travel. 43moa is assuming that your sight in is dead center of adjustment. Sometimes you might have to adjust the scope for your given zero range and end up with say only 20moa of useable elevation.
I do agree that many rifles don't need a rail though. Rails are a great solid platform though and if you move scopes around from rifle to rifle they are great.

IMO you should be zeroing at 100 yards period. If you end up with only 20 MOA elevation adjustment out of an 86 MOA scope you're doing something terribly wrong.

 

[Cahunter805]

I never use a 100 zero but that's just me. Why do you use 100? Just curious. I prefer a 200 or 250 zero. Makes anything under 300 an aim and shoot situation IMO.

Just curious what do most of you zero at?

 

[Sam Millard]

I never use a 100 zero but that's just me. Why do you use 100? Just curious. I prefer a 200 or 250 zero. Makes anything under 300 an aim and shoot situation IMO.

Just curious what do most of you zero at?

I zero everything at 100 yards. I dial wind and elevation for the long shots, can use and have used reticle for quicker, closer shots.

 

[Ryan Avery]

I second what Sam said. I also like to check my zero often. A 100 yard zero is easier for me to check in the field or at a range.

 

[wapitibob]

I would suggest you lap those rings regardless of what vortex says. Chances are darn slim both rings will be concentric when mounted on an unbedded rail, which is mounted on a Rem 700.
I bed the rail level to the action then lap the rings.

 

[RosinBag]

My turret has the zero mark at 200, but I zero at 200, then check at 500 or 600 to verify zero is just perfect.

 

[deadwolf]

I zero everything at 100 yards. I dial wind and elevation for the long shots, can use and have used reticle for quicker, closer shots.

Exactly

 

[Tony Trietch]

I am setting up a new toy right now and this discussion is perfect. Thanks guys!

 

[KMD]

I second what Sam said. I also like to check my zero often. A 100 yard zero is easier for me to check in the field or at a range.

+3 & 5...
Zero the turret @ 100yds.
If you want to run a MPBR 'zero', for point & shoot hunting ranges, then just dial to that correction on your turret and leave it there. I do that all the time, usually add 0.3mils UP on the turret for general killing detail. No thought involved, hold dead center on fur 0-300yds. But the turret itself is always zero'ed out @ 100yds...

 

[RosinBag]

This is a problem that can come up with hundred yard zero. It is hard to tell if you're dead on unless you can shoot a ragged hole. One click here there at 100 yards is hard to tell unless your rifle is capable of shooting a ragged hole.

If you get it close at 100 and then shoot an intermediate range of say like 400 yards, your clicks are easier to see the adjustments, because the variance is greater than at your zero at that intermediate range. Then I go back to 100 and confirm your hundred yard is still there and your zero should be more accurate.

If that makes sense when reading. I do t know if any better, but gives me piece of mind at the longer yard ages, which is where it is more critical.

 

[pyroducksx3]

Your ability to shoot a tight group degrades the further you go out, which is evident in that group size increases as you move out. This margin of error only increases. At 100 yards you can shoot a tiny little group and the environmental factors ,ie wind, dont effect your zero as much. Fact is you shoot better at 100 than you do at 200, 300, 400, etc. So any error in your zero gets magnified the further out you shoot. I mean ive shot some great groups at 300 yars but a great group is 1-1.5". I wouldnt feel comfortablen with a 1.5" zero group, this is greater error than any small adjustments you would have at 100. I would also say any errors would show upnduring the verification phase of your shooting. If your pounding it on out to past 800 your zero is probably good.This is of course for dialing. If you are sighting in your rifle for point blank shooting then 200, or greater makes sense. I guess it all comes down to what works for you though. And if its working then shoot it and be happy.

 

[KMD]

I get what you guys are sayin' & agree with the logic. Bottom line is: proving your dope out at distance is what really counts.

But I still want my turret's "zero" to be set @ 100yds. That way, all of my corrections are UP from there. The reasoning behind the 100yds turret zero is to have a solid reference point to base my dope from. It does not need to chew the exact dead center out of the bullseye.

Some ballistic calculators allow for "zero offset" and will compensate for any minuscule POI shift from dead on when zeroing @ 100yds. Miniscule meaning, smaller than 0.1mrad (.36"), or 0.25moa (.26") which the majority of scopes offer to single click value. My GAP 7WSM is a friggin' TACK driver, and POI of my 100yd zero hovers juuuuust slightly above dead center. So, I compensate that by putting 0.15" as 'zero offset' into Ballistic AE solver.

If you're gear is up to it, and you're a good enough shot to hold less than those minuscule parameters on a consistent basis, tweaking your zero to exactly to dead center might be a benefit to you. I'm not, and only bother with 'zero offset' because Ballistic AE allows for it. Otherwise, I'd happily settle on being a smidge off the actual true center of a target. As long as my dope at distance proves out true, having a 100yd zero POI ever so slightly off dead on is of zero consequence...

 

[KMD]

Oh, and if your horizontal zero is slightly off, zero the turret to favor a left impact. Then, the Coriolis Effect will negate the deviation at distance, LOL

 

[RosinBag]

My purpose is to prove my dope. And it is for hunting only, so I don't dial in for 100 when I leave my turret set at 200. The poi is minimal and animal still dies.

Many ways to skin the cat on this toppic.

 

[Sam Millard]

My purpose is to prove my dope. And it is for hunting only, so I don't dial in for 100 when I leave my turret set at 200. The poi is minimal and animal still dies.

Many ways to skin the cat on this toppic.

You are right on that! What it really boils down to is what access do you have for zero check work and how tight can you/your rifle shoot at the intended zero distance.

A hit is a hit when hunting...no need to shoot eyeballs out when the lungs offer a much better target

 

[Cahunter805]

KMD I agree with setting a little left and usually do. Another factor many people forget is spin drift. I still zero at 250 and only dial for anything 350+. Just my personal preference and preferred method. Like many stated it all comes down to being able to hit your poa at given distances.

 

[KMD]

Gotcha.
Yep, whatever floats your boat.
Here's a quick pic, to help illustrate how I hunt with my turreted scopes (sorry for the blurry pic)

Turret is zero'ed @ 100yds.
BUT, since I'm calling coyotes in the wide open Nebraska sand hills, I put 0.2mrad on the ele' turret, as shown. That allows me a more efficient maximum point blank range trajectory with a wicked flat shootin' .22-243. With 0.2mrad on the turret, I'm "hold dead on and shoot" to 300yds.

If a coyote hangs up further, out comes the LRF and I can then dial the ele. turret to the dope. And, being it s a FFP scope, I can hold wind at any magnification, but that's another story

The only thing that never changes is that the "0" demarcation on the ele. turret is referenced to 100yds. That way, any distance correction is UP from there, and easy to keep track of when you don't want to have to think about it...

For all intents & purposes, I'm runnin' a 225yd "hunting zero" with that 0.2 dialed on the turret. But the turret itself is "zeroed" @ 100yds...

No right or wrong, whatever works for you!

 

[Cahunter805]

Nice setup! What bullet you running in the 22-243? 75gr amax? Bergers? What twist is it? My brother had one for a while and it was very fun with the amax.

 

[wapitibob]

I zero at 200, get drops at 500 and 800, create a tape and go shoot. I zero at 200 for the same reason I use 30 for my bow tape, clicks show up better.

 

[KMD]

Thank you, and yes, 75Amax launcher! That one is a 1:7.7"twist, #3 Krieger barrel