Scope mounting challenges

Ruskin

WKR
Joined
Jan 2, 2013
Messages
383
Location
Atlanta
Hi guys. I'm mounting my scope on a 700 SPS 30-06. I have a EGW rail and vortex HS-T. Please see the pic below and let me know if this is a problem or if I can keep going.

I was test fitting the rail on when I noticed the difference between the rail level and my action level. Is this acceptable? Can I go ahead an finish mounting scope or does the rail need to be level with action?
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1403656247.805722.jpg
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1403656258.720098.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1403656219.448803.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1403656231.943976.jpg
 
Whoa. That doesn't seem right. I have no advise to offer.
I know there are others here that can help. Interested to hear what might cause that.
 
Those levels are certainly not the best. If you move the one on your action back and forth I bet it changes slightly.

I would mount it the chances of your rail being machined that far out of level are slim.
 
Ok. Well mounted and leveled with my construction level. Not sure that's much better, but the range will tell.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1403668414.261638.jpg
 
You should be fine. 99.99% your mounting holes on your rifle are sound and they are in correct position in relationship to your action.

EGW is certainly not a top end rail, but their machining rails from specs that are standardized.

I didn't see what rings and bases you went with, but some rings need to be lapped to facilitate solid contact with scope.

The range can confirm your reticle travel, but I would do your test of that at a 100 yards where the environment and form won't affect it as much.

Good luck....
 
Rosin- thanks for the input.

Also I went with the vortex precision matched rings. Vortex said not to lap them.
 
I have an Evolution Gun Works Heavy Duty 20MOA rail on my 300RUM as well and it is ok. I am not happy with how high it makes my optic sit over the action/barrel however. It looks like yours is pretty high as well. I have low NF rings but wish they had extra low. Perhaps I will get a different rail someday and remount it.
 
I'm surprised that anyone is in need of an elevated rail for a long range hunting rifle. Most quality scopes come with plenty of MOA adjustment, certainly enough for any hunting application. The scope in the picture looks like a Viper PST which offers 86 MOA, so 43 MOA elevation adjustment, which takes my .300 win mag for example out to 1250 yds. At that range I'd no longer have the energy to make the bullet expand like it is designed to do or the energy to put a large animal down.

I'm just not seeing the need for any elevated rail. Not with that scope. Not with your 30-06.

Just added weight I wouldn't want. Along with taller rings, now the cheek weld and eye relief is off, now this snowball effect is rolling!
 
Last edited:
It's a 0' rail. But yea does raise it up. I have it on low rings, but still higher on the cheek. I was just looking for a solid mount.
 
I'm surprised that anyone is in need of an elevated rail for a long range hunting rifle. Most quality scopes come with plenty of MOA adjustment, certainly enough for any hunting application. The scope in the picture looks like a Viper PST which offers 86 MOA, so 43 MOA elevation adjustment, which takes my .300 win mag for example out to 1250 yds. At that range I'd no longer have the energy to make the bullet expand like it is designed to do or the energy to put a large animal down.

I'm just not seeing the need for any elevated rail. Not with that scope. Not with your 30-06.

Just added weight I wouldn't want. Along with taller rings, now the cheek weld and eye relief is off, now this snowball effect is rolling!

Added weight in a Longrange rifle isn't that big of a deal, my longerangle rifle is 13.5 lbs I don't think the extra 1oz vs standard bases is anything to concerned about. Also not everyone may use the rifle the same way as you. For instance I dailed 68 Moa to make a 1831 yard shot last weekend. Will I hunt this far, no but shooting it is fun and makes that 1000 yard shot easier. Does this particular rifle need a 20 Moa base, probably not but why leave Elevation adjustment on the table? You're right that not every rifle need the rail but to say there isn't any reason for one isn't accurate. As far as the check weld there are lots if options to correct that. My favorite being the stock pack from traid tactical. You can order extra height strips to get it perfect and I like the internal bullet pouch option. https://www.triadtactical.com/Triad-Stock-Pack.html to be honest I have found most rifles need this anyway as even with my tikka using direct mount rings and a 44 mm scope I needed the stock pack to raise my cheek weld to get the proper sight picture. There are plenty of tools to correct our shooting form so no snowball effect necessary.
 
What you are saying in your post is correct, but I was going off the assumption we were talking hunting as we are in the long range hunting forum. Most of my rifles are as light as possible for mountain hunting where every ounce counts. I will agree that even with low rings we often need a higher cheek weld, I know I prefer it. I guess what I was really trying to get at is that often guys get enamored with accessories without really thinking through what they do and don't need. Good discussion
 
I think for most of the shooters, anything between about 1.4" to 1.8" for sight height will keep you well mounted to the rifle comb. If you can't relax and see through your scope you may want to look at some adjustable stocks or pads. I used a part of a knee pad taped to my work rifle for over two years before the elements made me change it out. Something that crude can work wonders on your mount on the rifle and how much more consistent you can be.
 
To me lightweight mountain rifles and Longrange hunting do not create a symbiotic relationship. There are some setups with carefully selected components that can create a reliable lightweight shooting system but the people buying a kimber Montana or tikka thinking they are going to 1000 yards aren't being realistic. Are those rifles capable of making a 1000 yard shot, maybe. Is it capable of making it every time probably not. Now factor in the shooters abilities and odds go way down with these lightweight rifles. To be fair we haven't defined what we are calling Longrange. If we are looking at 600 yards then yes these lightweight mountain rifles are Longrange capable and oz count and there probably is no need for a canted base. My mountain rifle is a tikka t3 lite with talley light weight rings bolted the action, so no canted base and I feel comfortable to 650-700 with it.
 
Last edited:
A canted rail on a rifle allows the shooter to adjust the scope's erector through the middle of it's range when correcting for distance. That translates into less wear & tear on your scope's internals...
 
To me lightweight mountain rifles and Longrange hunting do not create a symbiotic relationship. There are some setups with carefully selected components that can create a reliable lightweight shooting system but the people buying a kimber Montana or tikka thinking they are going to 1000 yards aren't being realistic. Are those rifles capable of making a 1000 yard shot, maybe. Is it capable of making it every time probably not. Now factor in the shooters abilities and odds go way down with these lightweight rifles. To be fair we haven't defined what we are calling Longrange. If we are looking at 600 yards then yes these lightweight mountain rifles are Longrange capable and oz count and there probably is no need for a canted base. My mountain rifle is a tikka t3 lite with talley light weight rings bolted the action, so no canted base and I feel comfortable to 650-700 with it.

Words of wisdom spoken here!
 
I'm surprised that anyone is in need of an elevated rail for a long range hunting rifle. Most quality scopes come with plenty of MOA adjustment, certainly enough for any hunting application. The scope in the picture looks like a Viper PST which offers 86 MOA, so 43 MOA elevation adjustment, which takes my .300 win mag for example out to 1250 yds. At that range I'd no longer have the energy to make the bullet expand like it is designed to do or the energy to put a large animal down.

I'm just not seeing the need for any elevated rail. Not with that scope. Not with your 30-06.

Just added weight I wouldn't want. Along with taller rings, now the cheek weld and eye relief is off, now this snowball effect is rolling!

Just because a scope has 86moa doesn't mean you will get to use all of the travel. 43moa is assuming that your sight in is dead center of adjustment. Sometimes you might have to adjust the scope for your given zero range and end up with say only 20moa of useable elevation.
I do agree that many rifles don't need a rail though. Rails are a great solid platform though and if you move scopes around from rifle to rifle they are great.
 
Back
Top