Scope bubble level?

Not an answer but I just put one on my Tikka/SWFA and took it to the range. Each time I'd aim I'd open my non dom left eye and look at the bubble right before I was ready to shoot to check my level. I was not level once. Hope the bubble helps me get in the habit of being more level and makes me a better marksman.
 
Id say cant is very important on anything over 600m.
Pick the best anti cant you can afford.
Vortex is good
 
I put the Vortex ones on my guns. Haven't shot over 100 yards yet but noticed that what I thought was a nice level rest was slightly canted. I would usually miss slightly left. I check like fmyth does. My left misses stopped.
 
For a typical hunting rifle, you'll be 2-3" off per degree that your scope is out of plumb at 1000 yards. Pretty easy to be off several degrees without knowing it. Out in the field, especially in the mountains where nothing is plumb or level, eyeballing it is nearly impossible.

I prefer the type that hangs out to the side of the scope, you can easily check it with your left eye without pulling your head out of the scope.

This video explains it very well.

 
Put one on and then close your eyes and get into position, open your eyes and then see how much your reticle moves to level. This will be different for everyone but my natural cant is about a 5” diff from level at 100yds. The reason it doesn’t show till further distances is we tend to be somewhat consistent with our natural cant.
 
At 400 yds, everything becomes very critical. Temperature, elevation, barometric pressure, wind, and being level. Last year I missed a deer 3 times at 500 yds. That should have been a very easy shot for the practice I do and the rest I had. I looked down and my gun wasn't even close to being level. I leveled the gun using the bipod and hit the deer perfectly on the 4th shot.

Holland Gunsmithing in Powers OR makes a great pic rail with bubble levels built in for Rem Mod. 700's
 
Thanks all. I have also read about guys setting up there scope to be level with their natural rifle cant. Anyone have experience with this technique?
 
Thanks all. I have also read about guys setting up there scope to be level with their natural rifle cant. Anyone have experience with this technique?

It doesn't matter nearly as much if the scope is level to the rifle. The important part is that your reticle and scope are tracking perfectly plumb. Don't listen to anyone who says not to use a level when shooting long range.
 
How did you level your level? I put mine loose around the scope, slide an Allen wrench between the top of the rail and the flat on the level, twisted it slightly until it squared up and tightened it.

Looks tacticool.....we’ll see how the shooting goes.
 
The Wheeler scope leveling kit works pretty nice for this. Pretty much level the rifle in a vise, set scope, and then work on the level.

I actually set my scope level so the bubble touches the left hash, since on most levels the bubble diameter is smaller than the distance between the hash marks. I think it makes difference with consistency, and heat of the moment shots.
 

I used Flatline Ops levels for a long time, I've swapped everything over to the Accuracy 1st levels for the most part. Either are great, I just didn't like flipping it in/out. I like mounting my levels on the scope tube so you can true the level. I tried some pic-rail mounted ones but if the rail is out of tolerance the level won't ever sit level with the bolt rail or reticle.
 
How did you level your level? I put mine loose around the scope, slide an Allen wrench between the top of the rail and the flat on the level, twisted it slightly until it squared up and tightened it.

Looks tacticool.....we’ll see how the shooting goes.

Hang a plumb bob out at 50-100 yards, get your action somewhat level so that the reticle is right over the bore, line the vertical post of your reticle up to the plumb line, torque level on.

After that you can do a tall target test to confirm your scope tracks in the same plane as your reticle. Grab a long piece of cardboard and a long level, draw a vertical line, assure it’s true with level/ plumb. Put a spot at the bottom and dial up as you shoot at the dot. Impacts should remain in the line
 
I like the Vortex offset levels. It puts the level off to the side, such my left eye can see it perfectly while I’m in the scope. I have used them for several years now, and have had my levels positioned similarly for almost 20 years now. I use that layout for my PRS rifle, so I also keep it consistent on my hunting rifles. Between parallax setting, range turret position, any data card, and my target downrange, there’s a lot going on in the “HUD” seen in my left eye (or is that a “HDD”?).

I level my reticle with the scope on a jig with a plumb line, tighten the rings, then install the level.
 
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The Wheeler scope leveling kit works pretty nice for this. Pretty much level the rifle in a vise, set scope, and then work on the level.

I actually set my scope level so the bubble touches the left hash, since on most levels the bubble diameter is smaller than the distance between the hash marks. I think it makes difference with consistency, and heat of the moment shots.
I've had a lot of success with the Wheeler set as well. Vise the gun, level from the mount/rail, put the barrel level on to match. Then mount rings, and level scope turret/uncapped turret to the barrel.

When I first got into distance shooting I was all over the map past about 500 yards. Once I got my optics hard mounted level and fixed my cant with a scope bubble all that went away.
 
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