School me on .338 win mag reloading

[Harvey_NW]

I think I'm going to ditch the lee crimp die, load up 10 more and roll crimp them, and see if that makes a difference. Speer recommends not using a lee factory crimp die, which I just learned today.

Crimp is definitely not needed on bolt rifles, but I do polish my expander down to .0025-3" below caliber size for a little more interference. You'll get better results by shooting samples of 10, that's a good idea.

When FL resizing you definitely don't want to set it up to get the "cam-over" feel of the die bottoming out on the shellholder on a belted magnum. You're now resizing the headspace off the case head instead of the belt. You'll need a headspace gauge (https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-HK66-Lock-N-Load-Headspace-Gauge/dp/B000PD5VN8) or comparator kit for your calipers, and measure the case from head to datum on the shoulder, bumping .002-3" below fired dimension. If the cases still chamber easily I would continue to neck size until they're fully formed and you get resistance on bolt close, then FL resize from there. I remove the expander ball on initial die setup to not overwork the neck, and then replace it once you're achieving the correct bump. Contrary to popular belief I've never had an expander ball pull the shoulder back out and change the dimension, and I don't believe they induce enough runout to actually change the precision of a load.

Yes, typically trashed cases will be noticeable. Split necks can be visibly seen. I use a hand primer seater so you can easily tell the difference in resistance on seating. If you set your FL die up as I explained above, you shouldn't have issues with case head separation (where the bottom .25" or so of the case actually breaks away and separates from the body and neck portion), if you set it up to cam over like the instructional videos you will from overworking brass.

 

[Choupique]

Crimp is definitely not needed on bolt rifles

I just assumed it was a good idea since it's a .338 and it's supposed to kick hard.

When FL resizing you definitely don't want to set it up to get the "cam-over" feel of the die bottoming out on the shellholder on a belted magnum. You're now resizing the headspace off the case head instead of the belt.

I'm well read on "bumping the shoulder" but I have not done it yet. After this time, the 4th firing, I can just now feel some resistance chambering the empties. I'm going to give it a go on these eventually. I've got 30 or so neck sized and primed, and I'll use those to make some un-crimped loads to test vs the crimped ones. I dont see how that could really matter, but whatever. It's all expendable in the name of learning.

I'm surprised it took 4 firings to get tight.

 

[willtim]

The recoil of a .338 WM is way over stated.

 

[Choupique]

Yea, maybe I'm still a little young and dumb to realize it but i don't find it offensive at all.

How are yall set up to bump shoulders? Do you use the competition dies, or shim a regular shell holder? Just let the die float?

I'm fighting my instinct right now, which is to just jam the die into the shell holder, FL size the stuff, and scrap it after 3 firings....

 

[Harvey_NW]

I just assumed it was a good idea since it's a .338 and it's supposed to kick hard.

The extra thou or 2 of interference plus the abrasive carbonized interior surface of the neck solves that.

I'm well read on "bumping the shoulder" but I have not done it yet. After this time, the 4th firing, I can just now feel some resistance chambering the empties. I'm going to give it a go on these eventually. I've got 30 or so neck sized and primed, and I'll use those to make some un-crimped loads to test vs the crimped ones. I dont see how that could really matter, but whatever. It's all expendable in the name of learning.

Unless you're trimming brass all to perfect length every time it could put some variance in the force applied by the crimp, I think it might negatively effect the velocity ES.

I'm surprised it took 4 firings to get tight.

Me too.

 

[Choupique]

might negatively effect the velocity ES.

It must be pretty drastic. I dont know why else that particular load would have a mile of vertical in it like it did. I definitely have not trimmed this brass to perfection. I didn't think it mattered with the factory crimp die.

The extra thou or 2 of interference plus the abrasive carbonized interior surface of the neck solves that.

I'll just not crimp the next 10 at all and see what happens. I have 10 loaded already, and 10 primed brass that was sized and primed the same as the 10 I have loaded so it'll be a really good test.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Yea, maybe I'm still a little young and dumb to realize it but i don't find it offensive at all.

How are yall set up to bump shoulders? Do you use the competition dies, or shim a regular shell holder? Just let the die float?

By measuring with a comparator. I run the die down till it touches the shellholder with the ram at full stroke, then back the die out 1 full turn, then size a piece and measure. Continue screwing the die in about 1/8 turn at a time until you start to see bump. It isn't uncommon for the case to grow before getting bump, as the die starts to size the body portion first before the shoulders are contacted. Just keep screwing the die down and running through until the piece comes out sized .002-3" under fired dimension. I will note that I use homemade alcohol/lanolin lube, and it tends to stay lubed well enough to run a piece through a couple times for die setup. You can buy a competition shellholder set with different thicknesses to dial your sizing in so that the bottom of the die does make contact and cam, but I don't use them and typically don't see much more than .001" variance. The other problem with belted mags and FL sizing is the sloppy chamber tolerances can cause the die to not size far enough down the body and size the web above the belt when bumping shoulders. This typically requires a collet or body die to correct. I hate belted magnums..

I'm fighting my instinct right now, which is to just jam the die into the shell holder, FL size the stuff, and scrap it after 3 firings....

Not having the knowledge I do now, I did this when I was learning to reload and experienced case head separation on 3rd firing in a 7 rem mag.

 

[Choupique]

hate belted magnums..

Seems to be a common sentiment among reloaders. I guess I understand why now. Factory ammo is $5 a round, brass is $2 ea, bullets $2 ea...

I like this big kaboomer a lot but man it's a lot of BS to feed it now. Wish I had bought 10,000 rounds of the Norma when they were $2 a pop.

 

[Yellowknife]

My only 2 cents on .338 WM loading is that I found RL-17 did show 130 fps more velocity with a 210 than the identical load with traditional IMR 4350 in my 24" Ruger. When I could get it (haven't' seen a bottle in 3-4 years), I found it would occasionally show fairly hot speeds vs the traditional stick powders with certain combinations. It's very possible you hit on one.

If I could still get it, I'd use it as my go-to .338 powder. Currently I'm loading a slightly slowish (2600 fps) but accurate load of H4831 with a 250gr AB.

 

[Choupique]

I'm seeing that RL17 isn't widely available now, which is the opposite case from when I bought it. 4350 in any flavor was absent down here.

Our local shop has both H4350 and H4831 on the shelf right now so I may go grab a pound of each to see if my rifle has a preference.

 

[BigNate]

I have tried a light roll crimp on Woodliegh bullets with a crimping groove and for whatever reason they liked it. I used Sierra 250gr GK with IMR 4350, Fed 215s, no crimp, for a long time and could get overlapping groups.

I switched to Woodliegh WeldCore 250s because I got an absolute screeming deal on them on close out. I'm just now about out of them. I am using RL22 with these.

I have a bunch of 225s I will be going to next, again I got good prices on bullets that have been good in the field.

 

[Laelkhunter]

This thread is almost a month old. I didn't see where you are trimming the cases. Might want to look into that (best to trim after resizing process). If the primer pockets are tight (when seating new primers), then the cases are still good unless there are other signs of distress. And I don't think you need to crimp the mouth of the case. I shoot a .340 Weatherby and I don't crimp the bullets, and have never had any trouble.
I too live in Louisiana (South of I-10) and don't seal the primers or the bullets due to moisture (humidity).

 

[Choupique]

Thanks. I haven't trimmed them yet. They were a hair long but not much, don't remember how much.

Reloading is on the backburner till after hunting season