Not an owner, but I would never encourage this purchase. There are too many better rifles that can had at a lower price.
Can you give some examples? I’m stuck with what I have now and it had what I wanted (20” carbon barrel and folding stock), but may do something else in the future. Every action people said was better was impossible to find or $1000+, barrels were $900, chassis $1600, trigger, etc. I would also have to get help assembling or buy tools I don’t currently own. Just curious in ballpark numbers if you have them handy. I’m not sophisticated enough to care about the savage action being a little stiff.Not an owner, but I would never encourage this purchase. There are too many better rifles that can had at a lower price.
Can you give some examples? I’m stuck with what I have now and it had what I wanted (20” carbon barrel and folding stock), but may do something else in the future. Every action people said was better was impossible to find or $1000+, barrels were $900, chassis $1600, trigger, etc.
Thanks for that. I wanted to go Tikka but was under the impression they didn’t have a factory 7PRC. Right or wrong I was pretty set on that cartridge.The folding HNT26 chassis is great, but I wouldn’t recommend a Savage action or paying extra for a carbon barrel. Feeding from aftermarket mags can be tricky. My suggestion would be to buy a Tikka, chop and thread the barrel, and drop it in the HNT26. You’ll get a better action and trigger with a good barrel.
I have to second this point, I have noticed the same.Has anyone tried replacing the fluted bolt in one these ultralites with a standard, non-fluted bolt from another savage 110? I’ve owned a couple savage 110’s, including one ultralite in 6.5CM. The actions on all of them were very smooth except for the ultralite. I wonder if it’s the fluted bolt or the action that makes the ultralite cycle like sandpaper.
I’ve also had great experiences with my Savages and enjoyed all of them.