Sauer 100 - Talk me out of it

What would you do


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Your responses just strike me as combative. Internet typing usually doesn't convey true tone, so maybe thats why you come off as "Triggered" to me in this thread. As a potential buyer of a Sauer 100, rebarreling info is important to me. I honestly have never looked at these rifles, but if they are on par with Tikkas, I would certainly entertain the thought.

As you stated, there is very little info on them. The few threads that come up on re-barreling, all involve a difficult but doable process. Does sound similar to re-barreling Tikkas in 2015, I will give you that. I can remember relief cuts were the only way 😆 according to most.

The things cost the same or less (on sale) than a new barrel and don’t seem to be chambered in cartridges people actually shoot out. Seems to be much to do about nothing.

Edit-NVM cut and thread would be the concern.
 
Yeah, but relief cuts aren't needed for Tikkas in my experience. In 2015 they might have been. Point being, without correct info some things can be overblown. The 100's could certainly be that same case.
I'd say maybe with the Sauer 100. But when the factory will give you a new rifle rather than rebarreling that's not a good sign.
 
The things cost the same or less (on sale) than a new barrel and don’t seem to be chambered in cartridges people actually shoot out. Seems to be much to do about nothing.

Edit-NVM cut and thread would be the concern.
Similar to Tikkas, there are a lot of people who buy actions with the intention of putting on a barrel they want, to their specs. I'm not saying they are any more accurate, but it's what the customer wants. At $500 for a great action, that is exactly what I'd do. I prefer a heavier profile, typically shorter than most factory offerings. I also do not like adapters, so I choose to thread all my barrels 5/8 ×24. Lots of factory barrels, as you alluded to, can not accept 5/8" threads. Again, personal preference.
 
The things cost the same or less (on sale) than a new barrel and don’t seem to be chambered in cartridges people actually shoot out. Seems to be much to do about nothing.

Edit-NVM cut and thread would be the concern.
That's true if a person is happy with the cartridge and accuracy. But if they want to change barrels or shoot out their barrels after ten years then they're screwed. But if they don't shoot all that much and don't let the barrel get hot they're fine. I said that earlier in the thread as well as their accuracy guarantee.
 
The things cost the same or less (on sale) than a new barrel and don’t seem to be chambered in cartridges people actually shoot out. Seems to be much to do about nothing.

Edit-NVM cut and thread would be the concern.


No it’s not. My group has had 5-6 cut and threaded. This is a mountain out of a mole hill.
 
No it’s not. My group has had 5-6 cut and threaded. This is a mountain out of a mole hill.

I was jumping in without reading the whole thread. I have no doubt it’s not an issue. If they had it a cartridge I was interested in currently (offerings are just fine for most) I’d be tempted to give it a go. My point was simply was at the price point it’s pretty much disposable vs replacing barrel. Wasteful and against my nature, but they sound like a damn solid option.
 
I was jumping in without reading the whole thread. I have no doubt it’s not an issue. If they had it a cartridge I was interested in currently (offerings are just fine for most) I’d be tempted to give it a go. My point was simply was at the price point it’s pretty much disposable vs replacing barrel. Wasteful and against my nature, but they sound like a damn solid option.

Indeed. If I had to choose between a factory T3x Lite with zero modifications, or a Sauer 100 with zero modifications…. I’m probably choosing the Sauer.
 
LOL well I used the ol googlenator and it came up with this, apparently @Formidilosus was correct: Sauer 100 barrel replacement :.....but would a paint pen work just as well for this LOL but heck, now Im looking at Sauer's, thanks fellers. ..........but it is interesting, in the googlenator search, several links for this site popped up on this very subject from years ago.

Sauer 100 barrel replacement and Loctite considerations
When replacing a barrel on a Sauer 100 rifle, there are some important considerations regarding the use of Loctite:
  • Barrel Attachment: Sauer 100 barrels are threaded into the action, unlike some other Sauer models that may use a press fit.
  • Factory Loctite: Some sources indicate that Sauer 100 barrels might be permanently bonded with red Loctite at the factory.
  • Removal Considerations: If a barrel has been bonded with red Loctite, removing it can be difficult and may require heating and considerable effort.
  • Recommended Torque: When installing a new barrel, ensuring the correct torque on the barrel nut is crucial for proper seating and accuracy. WOOX provides a general torque recommendation of 35-45 inch-pounds for the Sauer 100. However, it's always best to consult the manufacturer's instructions or a qualified gunsmith for specific torque specifications for your replacement barrel.
  • Loctite Alternatives: While Loctite may have been used on the factory barrel, it's not universally recommended for barrel installation. Some sources suggest using anti-seize compound on the threads to facilitate future barrel removal, according to Accurate Shooter. Others mention using a sleeve retaining compound like Loctite 620 to bed the barrel extension to the upper receiver in AR-15 platforms, though this may not be directly applicable to the Sauer 100's threaded barrel design.
  • General Loctite Recommendations for Firearms: For most other firearm applications, blue Loctite (medium strength) is generally recommended over red Loctite (high strength) for screws and fasteners that may need to be removed in the future.
Important Notes:
  • Consult a Professional: If you're not experienced with gunsmithing, it's highly recommended to seek professional help from a qualified gunsmith for barrel replacement and installation on your Sauer 100.
  • Manufacturer's Instructions: Always refer to the specific instructions provided by the barrel manufacturer for proper installation and torque specifications.
  • Safety First: Ensure the rifle is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction before attempting any work on the firearm.
By considering these points and potentially consulting with a professional, you can ensure a safe and proper barrel replacement on your Sauer 100.
 
LOL well I used the ol googlenator and it came up with this, apparently @Formidilosus was correct: Sauer 100 barrel replacement :.....but would a paint pen work just as well for this LOL but heck, now Im looking at Sauer's, thanks fellers. ..........but it is interesting, in the googlenator search, several links for this site popped up on this very subject from years ago.

Sauer 100 barrel replacement and Loctite considerations
When replacing a barrel on a Sauer 100 rifle, there are some important considerations regarding the use of Loctite:
  • Barrel Attachment: Sauer 100 barrels are threaded into the action, unlike some other Sauer models that may use a press fit.
  • Factory Loctite: Some sources indicate that Sauer 100 barrels might be permanently bonded with red Loctite at the factory.
  • Removal Considerations: If a barrel has been bonded with red Loctite, removing it can be difficult and may require heating and considerable effort.
  • Recommended Torque: When installing a new barrel, ensuring the correct torque on the barrel nut is crucial for proper seating and accuracy. WOOX provides a general torque recommendation of 35-45 inch-pounds for the Sauer 100. However, it's always best to consult the manufacturer's instructions or a qualified gunsmith for specific torque specifications for your replacement barrel.
  • Loctite Alternatives: While Loctite may have been used on the factory barrel, it's not universally recommended for barrel installation. Some sources suggest using anti-seize compound on the threads to facilitate future barrel removal, according to Accurate Shooter. Others mention using a sleeve retaining compound like Loctite 620 to bed the barrel extension to the upper receiver in AR-15 platforms, though this may not be directly applicable to the Sauer 100's threaded barrel design.
  • General Loctite Recommendations for Firearms: For most other firearm applications, blue Loctite (medium strength) is generally recommended over red Loctite (high strength) for screws and fasteners that may need to be removed in the future.
Important Notes:
  • Consult a Professional: If you're not experienced with gunsmithing, it's highly recommended to seek professional help from a qualified gunsmith for barrel replacement and installation on your Sauer 100.
  • Manufacturer's Instructions: Always refer to the specific instructions provided by the barrel manufacturer for proper installation and torque specifications.
  • Safety First: Ensure the rifle is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction before attempting any work on the firearm.
By considering these points and potentially consulting with a professional, you can ensure a safe and proper barrel replacement on your Sauer 100.

IMG_8812.jpeg
 
  • Loctite Alternatives: While Loctite may have been used on the factory barrel, it's not universally recommended for barrel installation. Some sources suggest using anti-seize compound on the threads to facilitate future barrel removal, according to Accurate Shooter. Others mention using a sleeve retaining compound like Loctite 620 to bed the barrel extension to the upper receiver in AR-15 platforms, though this may not be directly applicable to the Sauer 100's threaded barrel design.
  • General Loctite Recommendations for Firearms: For most other firearm applications, blue Loctite (medium strength) is generally recommended over red Loctite (high strength) for screws and fasteners that may need to be removed in the future.

Zee Germans: slather in red loctite and it will last a lifetime

The Roksliders: slather in anti-sieze and shoot the barrel out in 3 months
 
LOL well I used the ol googlenator and it came up with this, apparently @Formidilosus was correct: Sauer 100 barrel replacement :.....but would a paint pen work just as well for this LOL but heck, now Im looking at Sauer's, thanks fellers. ..........but it is interesting, in the googlenator search, several links for this site popped up on this very subject from years ago.

Sauer 100 barrel replacement and Loctite considerations
When replacing a barrel on a Sauer 100 rifle, there are some important considerations regarding the use of Loctite:
  • Barrel Attachment: Sauer 100 barrels are threaded into the action, unlike some other Sauer models that may use a press fit.
  • Factory Loctite: Some sources indicate that Sauer 100 barrels might be permanently bonded with red Loctite at the factory.
  • Removal Considerations: If a barrel has been bonded with red Loctite, removing it can be difficult and may require heating and considerable effort.
  • Recommended Torque: When installing a new barrel, ensuring the correct torque on the barrel nut is crucial for proper seating and accuracy. WOOX provides a general torque recommendation of 35-45 inch-pounds for the Sauer 100. However, it's always best to consult the manufacturer's instructions or a qualified gunsmith for specific torque specifications for your replacement barrel.
  • Loctite Alternatives: While Loctite may have been used on the factory barrel, it's not universally recommended for barrel installation. Some sources suggest using anti-seize compound on the threads to facilitate future barrel removal, according to Accurate Shooter. Others mention using a sleeve retaining compound like Loctite 620 to bed the barrel extension to the upper receiver in AR-15 platforms, though this may not be directly applicable to the Sauer 100's threaded barrel design.
  • General Loctite Recommendations for Firearms: For most other firearm applications, blue Loctite (medium strength) is generally recommended over red Loctite (high strength) for screws and fasteners that may need to be removed in the future.
Important Notes:
  • Consult a Professional: If you're not experienced with gunsmithing, it's highly recommended to seek professional help from a qualified gunsmith for barrel replacement and installation on your Sauer 100.
  • Manufacturer's Instructions: Always refer to the specific instructions provided by the barrel manufacturer for proper installation and torque specifications.
  • Safety First: Ensure the rifle is unloaded and pointed in a safe direction before attempting any work on the firearm.
By considering these points and potentially consulting with a professional, you can ensure a safe and proper barrel replacement on your Sauer 100.
Any response that recommends 35-45 inch pounds for a torque spec on a barrel should tell you that AI is not going to save the world.
 
At $499-$799, it's cheaper to buy a new rifle than rebarrel it.
why is rebarreling the hang up?
I'll repeat it for the 3rd time, not everyone wants the factory offering. There are lots of guys who buy aftermarket barrels to obtain their desired specs. Again, chances are, they are able to be re barreled similar to most other screw in barrel rifles. Very little info on them. I personally would not buy a rifle I could not easily rebarrel. I much prefer to put a barrel on that meets my needs and wants. Similar to your desire to change stocks. It doesn't affect the accuracy but does make the rifle more pleasant to shoot.
 
I'll repeat it for the 3rd time, not everyone wants the factory offering. There are lots of guys who buy aftermarket barrels to obtain their desired specs. Again, chances are, they are able to be re barreled similar to most other screw in barrel rifles. Very little info on them. I personally would not buy a rifle I could not easily rebarrel. I much prefer to put a barrel on that meets my needs and wants. Similar to your desire to change stocks. It doesn't affect the accuracy but does make the rifle more pleasant to shoot.
that I can understand. as for shooting out and replacing factory barrels, Sauer might just be the best disposable rifle now.
 
I had heard that the early Ceratech models had finish problems...that it was thin or peeled. Is this still a problem? Would it be better to get the standard blued model, or upgrade to Ceratech for weather-resistance?
 
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