S2H Winter Rifle Course Observations/lessons

Thanks for the thorough write up, @Formidilosus. Hopefully I get to join this one next year.

You mention 10oz down puffy jacket. Is there anything out there currently you'd recommend, or is there anything coming out soon you can recommend to watch for? I've been waiting on one. I haven't spent hours sitting in -15, but I get cold easily sitting stationary in 0F.

The only thing right now is getting a parka made by Goosefeet gear to your specs. There is an option coming out from a company, hopefully by this fall- somewhere around 12-14oz down, with features specifically made for this use.


And for those temps ... If you do have a 10oz down parka, how would the grumman pants do? Need more down than those?

Oh yes, you need more than the Grummans. Right now I am using two Grummans. However that is a compromised answer as no matter large you get the top pair, it does weigh on and compress the bottom pair. Same as above- Goosefeet Gear.



One other question on the rewarming drill. What is the reason that it is better to get in your bag and lay stationary rather than doing something active for awhile, like jumping jacks? Is it because it would take so long to dry your clothes you'd be exhausted?

Exhaustion, potential for critical thinking to start waning.

There are basically three options when you get soaked in colder weather-

1). Immediately try to start a fire.

2). Active rewarming- throw your puffies and gear in and start moving at a continues, but not exhausting pace.

3). Static rewarming- throw puffies on, set up tent, get in bag and eat/drink constantly.


The first (fire) option is a 100% binary choice- it either works or it doesn’t. If you get and keep a fire going- money. But the time it takes to do so you are losing motor control, getting hypothermic, and losing critical thinking ability. If you fail to get the fire going, or it goes out- death from exposure is a very real, if not most likely outcome.

The second (active) works well, but isn’t feasible in all conditions- where we were, there was 3-4 feet of snow on the flats, more in places. No one can keep up a steady, consistent pace that isn’t exhausting them for 2-3 hours that it would take to force dry out. Also, the snow itself while moving through it is causing wetting from the outside. On top of that, by the time someone has fallen in water surrounded by snow and/or in cold weather- they generally aren’t thinking clearly. Often they choose wrong routes, totally opposite directions, bad choices- and get lost.

Number three (static) is usually the safest, and cleanest choice. It has the fewest downsides and is least likely to make a bad situation worse. Get wet, get insulation on immediately, walk a few yards to decent ground, set tent up, lay pad and bag out, get in. It’s things that most people have done repeatedly so it is much easier to do with subconsciously and when stressed.


For training, static rewarming is the hardest on the clothing system- it exposes everything. So, for practice it’s the best choice regardless.


I’ve never had to do a static rewarming outside of practice/training. I have done partial and near full active rewarming. The last time was a slip in a creek in 20° F temps and 2+ feet of snow. Both legs up to above the knees, and the entire left side of my body went in. Probably 70% of my body was soaked. I was wearing a t shirt, Atlantic Rancher Ranger sweater, Woolnet base bottoms, Sarma TST woolshell pants, and Vivo Tracker ESC shoes. Being the shoes have no Goretex, they let the water out relatively quickly- feet stayed wet, but no issue while moving. The baselayer dried my skin out quickly on the bottom, and they combined with the woolshell pants- I didn’t feel wet after about 20 minutes. The top soaked through, but it was still warm, and I mostly didn’t dry it due to sweating while moving. Once I stopped 2-3 hours later, I was soaked on top due to the moisture in the foliage and sweat, the pants were soaked, but being a tighter weave wool and the Woolnet base-layer, I didn’t feel it. Still warm. It was no issue.
 
I actually switched from 15 Swaros to 15 Meoptas and now to 14 NL Pures. IMO none of the current 18 power image offerings are quite there and you sacrifice a ton of FOV.
damn. i was looking at the 18x56 vortex razor's. i'll take a look at the meoptas
 
damn. i was looking at the 18x56 vortex razor's. i'll take a look at the meoptas
Some guys, especially coues hunters here in AZ swear by those binos and they are effective with them.

I’ve sat with multiple pairs on multiple trips side by side on tripods with Swaro and Meopta 15s and the UHD 18s. To me there is no benefit to them. Worse overall image, way worse FOV, more finicky with focusing when glassing big country, chromatic aberration in Arizona bright sun is very noticeable.
 
The last picture in post #1 has what looks like a Tikka in a rokstok with aperture sights. I'm curious to learn more about the setup there and what it's used for. How is it for field shooting? Is it being used for hunting?

I've spent a lot of time behind a .308 Palma rifle with aperture sights between 300-1000 yards. But always with large, high contrast target boards at known distances.
 
The last picture in post #1 has what looks like a Tikka in a rokstok with aperture sights. I'm curious to learn more about the setup there and what it's used for. How is it for field shooting? Is it being used for hunting?

I've spent a lot of time behind a .308 Palma rifle with aperture sights between 300-1000 yards. But always with large, high contrast target boards at known distances.


Real field rifles should have a backup sighting system. There just really isn’t a good reason to bot have well designed aperture sights on the gun, or stored in the gun- without an aiming device rifles are useless. Scopes do hard break, they do get iced/fogged up on the outside, pouring rain renders them functionally dead, etc, etc. As well, states are starting to limit seasons with irons only…

A couple of us are working on proper aperture setups for rifles. There were two other, backup style options there as well.
That bottom picture is a full on aperture setup, and works extremely well. In the field with a highly practiced and skilled person, if they can see it with their naked eye, they can hit it.

10 rounds, prone off a pack, rapid fire. The taped spots are getting it zeroed. So far that rifle/ammo and those sights are averaging 1.5 to 2 MOA for ten round groups.
IMG_5022.jpeg
 
Packs:

There were two bags present that were/are specifically designed for winter backpack hunting- half the buckles of most packs, and not one buckle or strap has to be undone to access what is required for the day. By far they were the cleanest and most elegant solution present.
What were the two packs that outperformed the others?
 
We do that everyday when shooting. Haha.

Figured you'd appreciate knowing it happened to someone else. In my case, catastrophic. Best understanding is it takes a number of things all being in place at the same time to have it be possible, but is not something to worry about in general.

Where I think it's something to be a bit more cognizant of is primarily when a can has many thousands of rounds of fouling on the inside that has built up thick, the suppressor has thinner walls made of materials that transfer heat in and out more easily, how that material expands and contracts with heat changes, getting the can over 800F for awhile, and then rapidly quenching it in a snowbank...that's where fouling seems to have a possibility of popping off the walls. Our best understanding is that is has something to do with differential contraction. Most concern is any aluminum, which has about twice the modulus of thermal expansion of steel. Least concern is titanium.

But thicker walls, little to no fouling, can not getting red, not being put onto a snowbank at peak heat, probably wouldn't happen ever.
 
Figured you'd appreciate knowing it happened to someone else. In my case, catastrophic. Best understanding is it takes a number of things all being in place at the same time to have it be possible, but is not something to worry about in general.

Where I think it's something to be a bit more cognizant of is primarily when a can has many thousands of rounds of fouling on the inside that has built up thick, the suppressor has thinner walls made of materials that transfer heat in and out more easily, how that material expands and contracts with heat changes, getting the can over 800F for awhile, and then rapidly quenching it in a snowbank...that's where fouling seems to have a possibility of popping off the walls. Our best understanding is that is has something to do with differential contraction. Most concern is any aluminum, which has about twice the modulus of thermal expansion of steel. Least concern is titanium.

But thicker walls, little to no fouling, can not getting red, not being put onto a snowbank at peak heat, probably wouldn't happen ever.


Oh yeah, if you’re getting cans glowing- all kinds of things happen. With semi-auto and bolt guns, even with 50,000+ rounds of fouling, no issues in hundred of cans.
 
No Polartec Alpha or similar were used. Alpha Direct (especially without a face fabric) works very well- it and others like it are definitely synthetic layers that are very good.
There were several grid fleeces. Basically the thickness of the layer determines how fast it dries.
Thanks, I appreciate the info. A grid fleece and the Ambient hoody are my two most used mid layers here in WY. The duckworth powder hoody is the third, usually when I'm going to be a little more static. Good things to think about.
 
The only thing right now is getting a parka made by Goosefeet gear to your specs. There is an option coming out from a company, hopefully by this fall- somewhere around 12-14oz down, with features specifically made for this use.
Many climbing/mountaineering companies make jackets that meet these thresholds. Some quick places to look would be Rab, Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering all make parkas with fill weight from 12-20oz. Occassionally color is a bit less than desirable compared to camo but both FF and Rab frequently make coats in black.

A buddy has a Patagonia Grade VII down jacket that I'm envious of every time he puts it on. It's a damn shame that was discontinued. And also not a lot cheaper.
 
Many climbing/mountaineering companies make jackets that meet these thresholds. Some quick places to look would be Rab, Feathered Friends and Western Mountaineering all make parkas with fill weight from 12-20oz. Occassionally color is a bit less than desirable compared to camo but both FF and Rab frequently make coats in black.

A buddy has a Patagonia Grade VII down jacket that I'm envious of every time he puts it on. It's a damn shame that was discontinued. And also not a lot cheaper.
The Montbell Alpine Down parka at 300 dollars also fits the bill with box stitching to boot. No fleas on Feathered Friends or Goosefeet of course.

-J
 
The Mamba is $120?

I don’t know, I think at $120 I would just spend $60 or whatever and get the shorter Waters Rifleman 10 rounder.

Unavailable yes, but I don't see where they are $$120. Maybe I'm missing something. I haven't seen much here on the UM Tikka magazines. At one point I'm pretty sure 223 was going to be an option.

For my factory Tikka magazines, the one that originally came with my 223 has been flawless. A second 4 rounder initially gave my problems but seems pretty good after adjustment. A 6 rounder has been terrible with adjustments not helping so far. I've kind of been wishing I went AICS or CTR mags when I ordered the rokstock, just to get away from factory Tikka.
 
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