Right arrow spline.

B-Ridge Sledder

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
120
Halon 6 70#
27.5 draw
26” arrow
100 grain heads
Have Easton fmj 340 with 75 gr brass
Local shop says I’m over splined
Struggling to paper tune it.



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X-file

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
190
Location
Montana
According to the Easton chart you have the arrow you should. Halon is 345 ibo so you add 5# to dw. Total tip weight with insert is 175 Gn so you add 6-9# of dw. This puts you in the 340 spine range. What is the tuning issue?

9f2633ab6ae778df951be39ec949f9ab.jpg



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OP
B-Ridge Sledder

B-Ridge Sledder

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
120
I’m no expert but mechanicals and field points fly great. Trying to switch to fix blades and am struggling. Exodus is what I have currently.


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X-file

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 15, 2017
Messages
190
Location
Montana
What fix blades are you trying to tune?
Can you post a pic of what the tune looks like through paper?
Is it possible the inserts aren’t 100% trued? If that’s the case then the broad head could be slightly off centered so to speak but you wouldn’t see that in the field point flight.


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OP
B-Ridge Sledder

B-Ridge Sledder

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 17, 2018
Messages
120
That makes since it’s snowing here so won’t be today. I’ll look into it


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MTSabo

WKR
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Aug 22, 2017
Messages
405
Location
Ohio
You would be right in the sweet spot for fixed blades with a 20 gr insert
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2019
Messages
28
Hey OP just a quick comment. Short shaft is stiff to begin with. Chart showed you were border line to start. Consider going with 100gr brass up front to help soften that shaft up a bit. Cheaper than new arrows. As others have stated walk back tuning might get you where you want to be. Paper is my preferred method as well but in the end you’ll get where you want grouping with walk back and broadheads tuning.
 

2Stamp

WKR
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Oct 7, 2014
Messages
328
Location
Wyoming
Hey OP just a quick comment. Short shaft is stiff to begin with. Chart showed you were border line to start. Consider going with 100gr brass up front to help soften that shaft up a bit. Cheaper than new arrows. As others have stated walk back tuning might get you where you want to be. Paper is my preferred method as well but in the end you’ll get where you want grouping with walk back and broadheads tuning.
Heaviest he can go with FMJs is 75 gr brass. It's the HIT insert. Adding a little wt to the back will also weaken it a little. He can try a wrap if not already using one. it's another 5-7 grs depending on how long. Not alot.
 
Joined
Mar 7, 2019
Messages
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Absolutely correct on the HIT insert. Always preferred adding weight up front to keep good FOC. Could still try 125 gr tips/ heads if preferred broadheads is available in 125 gr. The tips are also cheap and will let you know where you are if you don’t want to shell out for new arrows.
 

87TT

WKR
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Mar 13, 2019
Messages
3,576
Location
Idaho
This has my head spinning. Starting to wonder if I got it right now. I have Gold tip hunter pro 300, 70# 29 1/2 draw 125 gr head with 50 gr insert on a 30 1/2 arrow. Thought it was the right spine but now not sure anymore.
 

nphunter

WKR
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Jul 27, 2016
Messages
2,002
Location
Oregon
This has my head spinning. Starting to wonder if I got it right now. I have Gold tip hunter pro 300, 70# 29 1/2 draw 125 gr head with 50 gr insert on a 30 1/2 arrow. Thought it was the right spine but now not sure anymore.

If your shooting it at full draw weight your under spined depending on what’s on the rear. Doesn’t mean it won’t shoot awesome, if you have issues you can’t resolve you can switch to a 100gr head and if your groups tighten then you’ll know your spine was too weak with the 125gr head.
 

nphunter

WKR
Joined
Jul 27, 2016
Messages
2,002
Location
Oregon
Halon 6 70#
27.5 draw
26” arrow
100 grain heads
Have Easton fmj 340 with 75 gr brass
Local shop says I’m over splined
Struggling to paper tune it.



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Those arrows are fine, spine isn’t your issue. The Exodus is a temperamental head because it’s a large cut heat and has a lot of surface are. Like others said, buy a squaring device, 99% of shops don’t actually square Easton arrows like they are suppose to be squared. The HIT is an awesome system but even the best arrow saw made won’t cut the shafts perfect. Go buy or borrow a G5 ASD, take a pencil and mark the entire end of the shaft with lead and then start squaring. You will be able to see how out of square the shaft is after a couple turns. Keep going until all the lead is gone.

After squaring try shooting again and if you still have issues try a different head, if you shoot something else better than switch.

FYI

I have never seen 1 arrow out of hundreds I’ve squared come out square from even the most expensive commercial arrow saw. They always have to be squared and if your planning on continuing to shoot HIT’s you will be way ahead to buy a square!!
 
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