Rifle scopes you'd love to see Form test

[Stocky]

I bet my dad is harder on his binos than your dad. Neener neener ;-)

Exactly what I was thinking where's the meme squad

 

[JGRaider]

I bet my dad is harder on his binos than your dad. Neener neener ;-)

I bet he is too.......my dad is 92.

 

[atmat]

How come you guys aren't drop testing your binoculars?

Edit: Others already answered your very obvious question. But I will still say that I’ve used lots of binoculars, and you do see some differences in ruggedness. For example, I love Swaro EL glass. But both myself and others have had issues with them; they seem to need to be “babied” more than some of the other bino brands.

 

[Castle Rock]

I really hate when my binos don’t hold zero.

Paint pen, loctite or finger polish?

 

[HighUintas]

Vortex diamondback 10x42 are totally underrated in the toughness category. I've ran countless miles wearing them, thrown them around, used them as a block to increase the height of my vehicle jack and they continue to hold zero.

It's almost as if it's easy to make a durable bino

 

[Spoonbill]

Paint pen, loctite or finger polish?

Always nail polish, the reaction I get at target explaining how I’m not buying nail polish for my nails but to make sure my bunos don’t shift but also need the most flamboyant colors possible is priceless.

 

[Axle]

Paint pen, loctite or finger polish?

If you want to be confident your binos will not have an unexplained zero shift in the field, they must be permanently bonded to your face. I think Form has recommended an initial layer of superglue around each eye socket, followed by a generous layer of Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive. Let all that cure for a minimum of 48 hours.

After the adhesives have fully cured, move on to the drop test. Drop them 1x front, left and right onto a log from a height of 2 ft. This simulates colliding with a tree while you are walking and glassing. If they are still attached to your face, your zero has not changed, and you can still see a nice, crisp round image, you are ready for phase two of the test.

Phase two:
Drop them from a height of 5' 10" onto hard rocks (higher if you are a tall person, but 5'10" should work for most people). If you cannot locate any hard rocks, a concrete sidewalk or driveway will suffice. You only need to do this 1x on the front. It simulates tripping and falling on your face while looking through your binos.

If your binos have held zero through this and are still attached to your face, you can glass with confidence in the backcountry.

 

[JGRaider]

If you want to be confident your binos will not have an unexplained zero shift in the field, they must be permanently bonded to your face. I think Form has recommended an initial layer of superglue around each eye socket, followed by a generous layer of Loctite PL Premium Construction Adhesive. Let all that cure for a minimum of 48 hours.

After the adhesives have fully cured, move on to the drop test. Drop them 1x front, left and right onto a log from a height of 2 ft. This simulates colliding with a tree while you are walking and glassing. If they are still attached to your face, your zero has not changed, and you can still see a nice, crisp round image, you are ready for phase two of the test.

Phase two:
Drop them from a height of 5' 10" onto hard rocks (higher if you are a tall person, but 5'10" should work for most people). If you cannot locate any hard rocks, a concrete sidewalk or driveway will suffice. You only need to do this 1x on the front. It simulates tripping and falling on your face while looking through your binos.

If your binos have held zero through this and are still attached to your face, you can glass with confidence in the backcountry.

I think you should try that and post some pics of your results. Like atmat said, don't be surprised if the RS worshipped Swaro binoculars aren't as tough as many others.

 

[yeti12]

I think you should try that and post some pics of your results. Like atmat said, don't be surprised if the RS worshipped Swaro binoculars aren't as tough as many others.

If I drop my binos that means I myself dropped since they are tethered to me/bino harness. I'd hate for form to pick me up and drop me multiple times to see what breaks. I'm betting my ribs go first.

 

[JGRaider]

I don't blame you guys for not wanting to intentionally drop your $1500+ binos on purpose..........

 

[Billy Goat]

I take mine everywhere with me. So far so good.

Buried on back floor board currently.



Not the highest dollar, but I have been pleased. Over 6 years with them like that.

No zero shifts yet.

 

[Spoonbill]

I don't blame you guys for not wanting to intentionally drop your $1500+ binos on purpose..........

I have dropped my swaros a bunch, they have rattled around in trucks hunting in multiple states in the south and out west. I sent them back once for a failed seal but otherwise they have been reliable for 33 years. They are Habichts and heavy compared to newer binos but they haven’t broken yet.

 

[fwafwow]

I take mine everywhere with me. So far so good.

Buried on back floor board currently.
View attachment 736705View attachment 736706View attachment 736707


Not the highest dollar, but I have been pleased. Over 6 years with them like that.

No zero shifts yet.

Yeah, but you are probably driving fancy highway miles.

 

[JGRaider]

Those do appear to be more sturdy than the newer versions. I've sent my ELSV 10x50's back once, and my SLC 10x42 is heading there now for collimation issues.

Conquest is a very tough bino, as is the Meostar and older Tinovid BA/BN. The Gold Ring HD is too.

 

[Billy Goat]

Yeah, but you are probably driving fancy highway miles.

Definitely some highway miles, Definitely some hard field miles too.



I keep my dash clear from the bumps.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

If I drop my binos that means I myself dropped since they are tethered to me/bino harness. I'd hate for form to pick me up and drop me multiple times to see what breaks. I'm betting my ribs go first.

bet it'd be your nose.

 

[Nhenry]

Going back to the old premise of this thread.

I'm not going to send mine because it remains uncannily zeroed, but someone send Form a Leupold VX-R to see if mine's just a fluke.

 

[ChrisAU]

I mean it depends on what caliber you are glassing. Those big magnums may affect your bino's return to zero.

 

[Formidilosus]

Going back to the old premise of this thread.

I'm not going to send mine because it remains uncannily zeroed, but someone send Form a Leupold VX-R to see if mine's just a fluke.

I have had multiple VX-R’s fail and Leupold have to repair them.

 

[Gstew1930]

The Element Helix 4-16 would be nice if it could pass