Restocked SWFA 3-9x42 Gen 1

Mine just showed up and noticed 2 things.

The clicks on both turrets are almost inaudible. Very different than the SWFA click feedback I’m used to.

The power ring, is stiffer than Jerry Sandusky at a Pop Werner game.

Not sure either are a big deal and power ring will probably loosen up, but it’s interesting.

Tanner
 
Mine just showed up and noticed 2 things.

The clicks on both turrets are almost inaudible. Very different than the SWFA click feedback I’m used to.

The power ring, is stiffer than Jerry Sandusky at a Pop Werner game.

Not sure either are a big deal and power ring will probably loosen up, but it’s interesting.

Tanner
What swfa scope turret click are you comparing to?

I had a 3-9x before and it was vastly mushier clicks than this new one. I think these are great compared to what I had before
 
What swfa scope turret click are you comparing to?

I had a 3-9x before and it was vastly mushier clicks than this new one. I think these are great compared to what I had before
The 5-6 10x’s, 2 3-9s, and 2 3-15s I’ve had, or still have.

They’ve certainly all been mushier than my LRHS, NF NXS etc type scopes but I was surprised to not be able to hear these clicks at all. Maybe I’m just getting deafer…
 
Mine just showed up and noticed 2 things.

The clicks on both turrets are almost inaudible. Very different than the SWFA click feedback I’m used to.

The power ring, is stiffer than Jerry Sandusky at a Pop Werner game.

Not sure either are a big deal and power ring will probably loosen up, but it’s interesting.

Tanner


Generally removing the rubber O-ring helps greatly.
 
Dab of silicon grease does wonders for the elevation turret.

For windage, 7/8 cap is a touch too small for the stepped indicator collar. Ace had 1" also. I think those will be the ticket with a fat oring in place of original to shim OD.

now to just find a taller screw to replace the pin/screw on the zoom collar for a mini throw lever, and I think my bob vela cob job jerry rigging is complete.

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I was going to ask about this as I had the same idea. Removing that screw and replacing it won't screw anything up?

If you take the screw out, it's actually a screw/pin that slaves the internal zoom collar/sleeve to the external power ring.

Doubt you could find something to work off the shelf at a hardware store, but could defiantly make something that matches the original pin and thread profile, that also sticks up taller on top as a mini throw lever. Just have to find the right screw and washers to start with, and do some lathe ish work with a drill and dremel. Will report back.
 
Got them here. I contacted the seller, who’s known on multiple forums, and asked if he was still making them for the 3-9. He responded that he did have a 3-9 kit available and to send him a message with the purchase asking for them. So I bought the kit and sent him a message. These come very well recommended.

I have a set of Tim’s shims on the 3-9 I have on my Tikka 6.5 CM. They work great. I just got notice that a second set shipped for the 3-9 I will be putting on the lefty Tikka 223 I will be getting from @Unknown Munitions sometime later this year.
 
I have a set of Tim’s shims on the 3-9 I have on my Tikka 6.5 CM. They work great. I just got notice that a second set shipped for the 3-9 I will be putting on the lefty Tikka 223 I will be getting from @Unknown Munitions sometime later this year.
Do these shims work similar to those they have for the fixed scopes - as in its a washer that will max out close to zero so you may go past zero a couple clicks and thats your que to then click back to your zero?
 
Do these shims work similar to those they have for the fixed scopes - as in its a washer that will max out close to zero so you may go past zero a couple clicks and thats your que to then click back to your zero?
Ye, there is a pretty good video on YouTube showing how to install the. They basically get it very close to zero (just passed) so you know what revolution your zero is on. It's not really a system for blindly spinning it back to the stop and knowing you're on zero. You could sand down the shims to get it just right if you wanted to, but not sure if it would be 100% reliable due to the potential for slight compression of the plastic shims. Or, maybe they don't compress at all so that would work just fine.
 
Got them here. I contacted the seller, who’s known on multiple forums, and asked if he was still making them for the 3-9. He responded that he did have a 3-9 kit available and to send him a message with the purchase asking for them. So I bought the kit and sent him a message. These come very well recommended.

I've worked out a crude 3D print that works well based on Tim's work. You go past zero a couple of clicks, and it stops.
 
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