Removing inserts from Easton FMJ

[WVELK]

Built a dozed arrows yesterday. Somehow I got one insert too deep and one too shallow with the Easton provided tool. I have removed inserts by putting a drill bit inside the shaft and doing the flip the shaft trick to allow the bit to strike the insert. Well I have tried and tried and tried. Not working. I used the glued that comes with the shaft. Any other ideas as to how I might remove the inserts?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I've heard reports of guys having better luck with the drill bit method after letting the arrows sit in the freezer for a few hours. Haven't tried it myself but may be worth a shot.

 

[Marble]

I would see if they could be cut shorter. Most guys ruin their arrows trying to remove the epoxied inserts. Just for reference, you can usually cut the arrow about 2" shorter than your DL.

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[WVELK]

I would see if they could be cut shorter. Most guys ruin their arrows trying to remove the epoxied inserts. Just for reference, you can usually cut the arrow about 2" shorter than your DL.

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Thanks, but I cut these and fletched them. There is not extra to cut off. I just screwed up and went too fast last night putting the inserts in. Ugh

 

[Mighty Mouse]

If the one that's too deep is just slightly too deep, you could maybe trim the front end of that shaft a bit and make it work. Having one arrow slightly shorter than the others won't hurt anything (other than your pride).

 

[WVELK]

If the one that's too deep is just slightly too deep, you could maybe trim the front end of that shaft a bit and make it work. Having one arrow slightly shorter than the others won't hurt anything (other than your pride).

Understood, but when I cut them I dont leave more than 1/2 inch of overlap beyond the launcher at full draw. Flipping the arrow around on the one that is too deep would work generally.

 

[Marble]

How bad are they?

 

[LongWayAround]

I had a similar problem. The fix was to partially screw a field point in, heat it gently with a butane torch, then do the drill bit trick.

I used pine ridge glue and it was bonded almost instantly.

 

[Dylan Sluis]

I'm guessing you are talking about the HIT inserts. I don't really know what you could do. But I had this same issue when I was putting hit's in my axis arrows. In hindsight next time I would definitely mix the glue up and then leave it sit for like 30 minutes before doing anything. And what saved my butt is after about 2 hours I went and checked on the depth. Which some were way off. I was able to screw in a field point and move them shallower/deeper if needed cause the glue wasn't fully cured yet.

 

[butcherboy]

This one of the main reasons why I don’t use epoxy or superglue. Hot melt always. I had to do the drill bit trick a few weeks ago on some that epoxied in just to try it for some dumb reason. Threw out my back and pulled some muscles in my arm.

 

[Hedge Row]

The drill bit trick can work sometimes, but I've seen bits of carbon come out with the insert. If you're using the brass or a solid HIT insert always remove the nocks otherwise it will create a suction when pulling the tool out and could cause you're issue.

 

[Hedge Row]

+1 for always using cool/hot melt when installing HIT's. The Iron will HIT insert tool is worth the investment as well in my opinion.

 

[jmez]

If you used 2 part epoxy correctly you aren't getting them out.

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[WVELK]

How bad are they?

Not sure what you mean by “bad”, but if you mean how tight are they are tight. I used an 8 inch drill bit to add more weight and neither insert has budged LOL>

 

[WVELK]

Thanks for all your responses. Live and learn. I have built hundreds of dozens of FMJ and never had a problem. But admittedly, the night I built those I was in a big hurry and watching the Olympics. My bad.