Reloading 101

[mt100gr.]

So I think Santa knows I am looking into reloading this winter. I want to help direct his generosity and am wondering what a good, or the best, "kit" would be to get started. I am thinking either the Hornady Lock and Load or the RCBS Rockchucker Master kit. ....though I am not sure.

I plan to add the necessary components as I need them, but for a basic setup that will be serviceable for beginner and down the road, is what I'm after.

What did you start with, what would you recommend??

Thanks.

 

[pyroducksx3]

I like the rock chucked kit. Although I hate those beam level scales and always opt for a digital scale. Also I am not sure if they come with them now but mine didn't come with a powder trickler, they are a must have.

 

[Shrek]

I'm not a kit fan but it sure wouldn't be anything Hornady. They made the only dies and tools I've found unacceptable. Rough and quick to rust new dimension dies and the camlok trimmer is a crime ! I have the old stoney point bullet comparator and oal Guage and if I need any replacement or new sizes I hope Hornady hasn't ruined them too. I've used Lee , RCBS , Forster , Redding dies and they are all good. The Forster and Redding S Type and Comp dies are nicer and the Lee are the best of the rest imo. Imo the Forster dies are the best dies for the money. I can't tell any difference in them and Redding but the Redding cost twice as much. I've started mixing and matching dies . I really like the Whiddon dies I have and will be buying more of them in the future. If you don't see what you need on the whiddon website you need to call because he makes most everything and if he doesn't have what you want he makes custom dies to any specifications you need. Any wildcat you can design he'll make . I like the Forster Co-Ax press and if not the Forster then the Lee Classic Cast is what I'd buy. You can spend more money for other cast O presses but imo you don't get anything more for your money. Broz is a big fan of the T7 Redding press and he obviously makes some straight ammo.

Btw , I started with a Rockchucker Supreme and there was nothing wrong with it but I lost a thousandth runout on everything when I went to the Forster Co-Ax press. I was upgrading everything about then and got rid of the crappy Hornady dies at the same time so I can't swear it was the press. Everything became smoother and was so much nicer to use when I switched to Forster and Lee dies. There are some drawbacks to the Lee Collet neck dies but they have made the straightest ammo I've made. I'm going to combine them with a Redding body bump die and see what I can do.

 

[NEhunter]

I have the RCBS rc kit and would recommend it to start. Mixed dies and other components. I have a redding powder trickle and it is great.

 

[LaHunter]

I have an RCBS RC Supreme press and I have been very happy with it. The RCBS kit would be a solid start up kit. Only thing with buying a kit, there will be some items that you will likely replace / upgrade fairly soon.

 

[mt100gr.]

Thanks for the info, guys. I am doing my homework on this too. I have been saving brass forever but would likely start with only one or two caliber/cartridges...I want to tailor a load or some loads for a couple of hunting rifles.

Is there a press more suited to longer brass (rifle)? Versus a do-all press?

 

[Shrek]

Unless you have some extremely long cartridges to load for any of the standard presses will work. What do you have to load for ?

 

[mt100gr.]

Nothing out of the ordinary. Would start with 7mmRM and 30-06 for the rifles. Maybe 270win, too. If i venture down the handgun ammo road, it would be 10mm, 44mag, 454 Casull, 45 colt....in no particular order or preference. I have more ammo for all of them than I will likely ever use or need.

 

[Shrek]

All the full size presses will do anything like that or will fit in a standard long action rifle. To need a super size press you would be loading things like the 50 bmg or some of the old time straight wall cases from the 1800's . Since most of the O presses like the Rockchucker , Lee Classic Cast , Redding Boss , and the Lyman all will do the job for a llifetime most people have only owned one press. Imo the Lee Classic Cast is the best value in O presses and the rest you just pay for name brand marketing and the Forster Co-Ax and the Redding T7 are at the high end and offer some performance features. At one point RCBS was making their presses in China but backlash supposedly made them bring production back. I certainly would not pay more for a Chinese press and RCBS lost me forever for even trying to move offshore. As for the rest they have always made their products right here in the USA and still do as far as I know.

 

[mt100gr.]

Good to know. Thanks. Would anyone recommend skipping the "kit" and just piecing a setup together? Can you even come close cost-wise to getting everything needed for the cost of one of the kits? Also, do the kits come with stuff I likely won't need?

I have a digital scale already...for being especially particular when building arrows.

Obviously need a press, dies, powder measure, shell holder, calipers, etc...could a better system be had for the same price?

 

[Jason Snyder]

I bought a Rock Chucker kit when I started many years ago. I priced it at the time and the kit was cheaper, but that was pre Craigslist days. If you shop used you might be able to find some screaming deals.

I'm still using my balance scale.

 

[Shrek]

I would be piecing together a setup rather than a kit but it helps to know what you need and want. Every company does some things well and some not so well. I still use a balance scale. In fact I went back to a balance scale after having several electronic scales quit or not work right. My Lyman M5 is probably 40 years old or older. I sent it off to Scott Parker and had it tuned and it should be good to go for the rest of my life.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Buy the RC kit with the electronic chargemaster and you'll be set to start out. Even the balance beam kit is fine, but that is the first thing I would upgrade personally. After you get a kit, you can start adding and upgrading as you see fit.

Also, feel free to call or text me anytime if you would like. 206-786-0889

 

[mt100gr.]

I really appreciate all the insight, everyone. And Justin, I may get in touch with you as I dive in. I will get stumped, no doubt.

Also, which manuals do you all recommend? Any to stay away from?

 

[Clarktar]

So, if you got a T7 press, and dies, and case lube, and loading block then you still need scale, powder trickler, I guess you need some sort of powder dispenser, deburring tool, case trimmer??

I have only used the Rock Chucker, does the T7 also insert primers like the Rock Chucker press?

 

[Shrek]

Something to think about with the T7 is that you will need extra turrents if you want to leave different calibers set up and you will need to change the turrent for every cartridge. With the Co-Ax you set the die up once and when you need it it just snaps in and out again without any adjustments. I don't see a primer on a T7 but I don't know anyone who loads much who uses a press to prime cases. A hand primer is much easier to use.

 

[Jason Snyder]

I really appreciate all the insight, everyone. And Justin, I may get in touch with you as I dive in. I will get stumped, no doubt.

Also, which manuals do you all recommend? Any to stay away from?

I have a Hornady manual, a Hogdgon manual, and have downloaded some PDFs from the Barnes sight. I've looked at the Nosler manual, and as I recall it seemed like a good one.

Really, with all of the info available on the internet I wouldn't get too hung up on any one manual. Reloading 20 years ago was a different story, not near as much information that was readily available.

 

[Jason Snyder]

So, if you got a T7 press, and dies, and case lube, and loading block then you still need scale, powder trickler, I guess you need some sort of powder dispenser, deburring tool, case trimmer??

I have only used the Rock Chucker, does the T7 also insert primers like the Rock Chucker press?

Yes, you'll want a deburring tool, case trimmer, also a primer pocket reamer and/or cleaner is handy. I ream all of my primer pockest when the cases are new, and deburr the flash hole.

You don't NEED a powder dispenses, I still just eyeball pour it into the scale and then finish with a trickler.

 

[Shrek]

I'll second not needing a manual with all the information available for free online. Jason is right about not needing a powder measure but for the cost of the Lee Perfect Powder measure there is no way I'm doing without. As most of the slow powders are large sticks you will always need to trickle up to your charges anyway and the Lee is good about not crushing powder grains. Those expensive and accurate powder dispensers don't work well with large grain powder like H1000 and Retumbo .

 

[Justin Crossley]

I find it much easier to read and compare load data using the printed manuals myself. I have a shelf full of them and still use them all the time.

For case prep, I have found the power case prep tool to be way better than doing it by hand. I use the RCBS one I think and it works great.