Re-installing inserts?

[Fisherhahn]

I made up a dozen Easton Axis 340s the other day. It seems to me that the inserts may be a bit off. I get a bit of wobble when I spin most of them. How do I prevent this when installing, and is there any way to to remove and reinstall them correctly? I used the epoxy that came with them. My buddy said drop a drill bit in the nock in and swing it down until it comes out. Any suggestions on how to fix?

 

[Samdemarais]

Well… you can try the drill bit method that does work? Did you cut the wobble off both ends of your arrow shaft? Did you square both ends? Did the arrows spin true before installation? Did you screw in a broadhead and spin test them while the epoxy was still pliable? The best way is the make a sharpie mark on the arrow and broadhead ferrule and spin while the epoxy is still wet, you turn the broadhead until it spins perfect and mark that spot and let dry.

 

[Fisherhahn]

I did cut and square. The shafts are good. I did not spin while the epoxy was still setting up. Is it possible to do them over or would it be too hard to get the inserts seated correctly with a second try? I don’t want to refletch, but I was thinking about getting the inserts out and swapping ends.

 

[Rob5589]

If you cleaned the insert and shaft prior to the epoxy, good luck getting them out. I always give the insert a spin when gluing them in. Even with squaring, I still end up with some that I deem field point only.

 

[Yuhboyrob]

Did you get match grade arrows? Usually when I get a dozen arrows there’s always a few that don’t spin 100% true. I don’t see how you could install the inserts wrong, I don’t think that would be the cause. I recently tried to get the inserts out of my axis arrows that I installed with the epoxy and absolutely nothing would get them out. I even tried heating up a long nut that had the same thread with a torch and the only way one came out was when the arrow got so hot it broke. From now on I only install inserts with the bohning heat melt for this exact reason.

 

[Samdemarais]

I did cut and square. The shafts are good. I did not spin while the epoxy was still setting up. Is it possible to do them over or would it be too hard to get the inserts seated correctly with a second try? I don’t want to refletch, but I was thinking about getting the inserts out and swapping ends.

How dedicated to the length of your arrow are you? Much would you have to cut off?

 

[doverpack12]

How dedicated to the length of your arrow are you? Much would you have to cut off?

1-7/8" is how much I cut off when cutting out HITs on any used arrows I buy. I plan for that length coming off the shaft.

 

[ZDR]

DId you square the end of the shafts? Are you using broadhead adaptor rings? HITs are hard to get out as noted above. Its hard for me to imagine the HITs are whats causing your wobble. The shaft would be the most likely issue.

 

[gelton]

I use this method - these metal rods that connect to a chronograph happen to be the perfect size for fitting down into a .204 arrow...it takes two of them but you can hammer out inserts pretty easily using them. Not sure if you have one around but if you do they should work.

Also, the wobble - I personally feel like its because all of the threading is not engaged with the insert because the insert tool pushes them too far into the shaft. Take an insert and engage 3/4 of the threads and see how much a tip will wobble while holding it in your hands.

Sure it is probably less once epoxied in but I still think there would be some movement there. I have started waxing the threads on field points, screwing them all the way into the insert and inserting them that way. Just come back in a couple of hours and unscrew the field point and you should be fine.

 

[Samdemarais]

1-7/8" is how much I cut off when cutting out HITs on any used arrows I buy. I plan for that length coming off the shaft.

Ya I mean cut the arrows off again to cut out the insert, then maybe just add a little more point weight to get your spine back to where it tunes for ya.

 

[Billy Goat]

I use this method - these metal rods that connect to a chronograph happen to be the perfect size for fitting down into a .204 arrow...it takes two of them but you can hammer out inserts pretty easily using them. Not sure if you have one around but if you do they should work.

Also, the wobble - I personally feel like its because all of the threading is not engaged with the insert because the insert tool pushes them too far into the shaft. Take an insert and engage 3/4 of the threads and see how much a tip will wobble while holding it in your hands.

Sure it is probably less once epoxied in but I still think there would be some movement there. I have started waxing the threads on field points, screwing them all the way into the insert and inserting them that way. Just come back in a couple of hours and unscrew the field point and you should be fine.

View attachment 317308

You are always going to have a little wobble when you have allowance. A nut isn't tight until it reaches a mating surface.

With hit inserts that mating surface is the end of the arrow shaft. The threads aren't what make it tight, the surface does. I'd work to have as much thread area as possible, but if you engage the threads all the way and your broadhead doesn't make contact with the shaft you are going to be in trouble.

I think maximum strength is 1.5 times the diameter. So 6 threads engaged on an 8/32 insert is way overkill anyway.


On a hit system it's going to be the front of the shaft that determines the runout on a point, not the insert.

 

[brimow]

Be very careful when trying to remove hits that are epoxied in. I have done both the heating and dropping something heavy in the shaft. Heat can work but as mentioned above can destroy the carbon. Knocking them out rarely works and will bulge the shaft at the insert. If you get them out inspect the crap out of that arrow.

I have had inserts slide/push forward a little when using the seating tool. I think I had too much epoxy on the insert when building. Then you bottom out your threads before the point seats on the shaft. (brass inserts) I have had to add a collar or washer but these arrows just got earmarked for stump shooting etc..

 

[Fisherhahn]

I had the length to just trim the arrows down. Down to 11 arrows as I trimmed one twice by mistake. I’m well past the rest and just inside the front of my riser a bit. Going to have to go to brass inserts to up the weight in front or I’ll be over spined. Thanks for all of the suggestions.

 

[Beendare]

Delete

 

[Fisherhahn]

I’m good on squaring. Never been an issue. Besides hunting, I’m a avid pen maker and having perfectly square pen tubes is a must for a perfect fit and finish. I have many different squaring methods and tools. If charging someone $100 or more for a pen, it better be perfect.

 

[MattB]

For the reasons stated above, it doesn't make sense that the ends of your arrows are squared and you have wobble as it is the ends of the arrow and not the insert that should be driving the concentricity.

 

[7-Pointers]

For what its worth, I found that 99% of the time it's the field tip that's slightly off center when my cut and squared arrows wobble on a spin...I'd swap the field tip on the wobblers with the tip on a non-wobbler and see if the wobble follows the tip before I got to cutting arrows or removing inserts.

 

[7-Pointers]

For what its worth, I found that 99% of the time it's the field tip that's slightly off center when my cut and squared arrows wobble on a spin...I'd swap the field tip on the wobblers with the tip on a non-wobbler and see if the wobble follows the tip before I got to cutting arrows or removing inserts.

And this is with gold tip EZ pull tips, not the cheapest (or most expensive) on the market. Still about 1/3 will wobble on any arrow out of the box, and 2/3 will fix a previously wobbly arrow. Once shot, most field tips wobble a bit.

 

[ZDR]

And this is with gold tip EZ pull tips, not the cheapest (or most expensive) on the market. Still about 1/3 will wobble on any arrow out of the box, and 2/3 will fix a previously wobbly arrow. Once shot, most field tips wobble a bit.

I'm working part time in a pro shop and spend a lot of time there making custom arrows. I notice a lot of sloppy fitting components with GT nock bushings, inserts etc. Easton, Black Eagle and Victory have better quality control from what I seen over the last two months and making several hundred arrows.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm working part time in a pro shop and spend a lot of time there making custom arrows. I notice a lot of sloppy fitting components with GT nock bushings, inserts etc. Easton, Black Eagle and Victory have better quality control from what I seen over the last two months and making several hundred arrows.

The majority of my GT shafts have either Shrewd or Top Hat Components with Beiter nocks.


They make a good shaft, but I agree that the components are a little lacking.