Range time with my new Kimber Montana

Just got the rifle back together after bedding the action. Did the recoil lug/front action screw and the tang with Marine Tex. Went well and action fits in stock much tighter. Sanded out the barrel channel so no contact. Anxious to get back out to the range and see if it helped.
 
I bedded my Montana in 7mm-08 the same way last year, factory bedding on mine had started to chip over the pillar on the front action screw. I've always used Kimbers recomended torque settings for the actionscrews, but tightening up the recoil lug area made the gun shoot better.
 
I got out to the range today before I had to work. I had time to shoot a 5 shot group with the 140AB and one with the 160 Partition.

I shot the 140s first and the group was identical to the one in my first post. I had 4 shots about right at an inch and one flyer just outside.

Then I shot the 160s. They kinda strung out horizontal at about 1.5" so not great. The interesting thing I had happen was one off round. The first few were in the 29xx FPS range. Then I shot the 5th shot and hit 2" low. At first I was just looking at it wondering why I did that. Then I looked at the chrono and saw 26xx fps. Wow, I cannot imagine had that been the one in the chamber when a great buck/bull gave me a nice 300 yard shot.

So, I have done what I know to the gun and it appears that with factory ammo I wont get better than 1". Now to decide if I want to try and get one of the guys I know to work up a load for me or maybe even buy into a load development with one of the custom places. I have heard good things about Copper Creek but their web page is not working so not sure if they are still going. Any other places I could look into?

If I go the reloading route I am thinking of trying 150 or 160 Accubonds. What else would be worth considering in the .284 offerings for a good deer/elk hunting round?
 
I was looking at the Copper Creek site just this last week.
Buddy of mine just got some stuff from them in the last couple weeks.
 
I got out to the range today before I had to work. I had time to shoot a 5 shot group with the 140AB and one with the 160 Partition.

I shot the 140s first and the group was identical to the one in my first post. I had 4 shots about right at an inch and one flyer just outside.

Then I shot the 160s. They kinda strung out horizontal at about 1.5" so not great. The interesting thing I had happen was one off round. The first few were in the 29xx FPS range. Then I shot the 5th shot and hit 2" low. At first I was just looking at it wondering why I did that. Then I looked at the chrono and saw 26xx fps. Wow, I cannot imagine had that been the one in the chamber when a great buck/bull gave me a nice 300 yard shot.

So, I have done what I know to the gun and it appears that with factory ammo I wont get better than 1". Now to decide if I want to try and get one of the guys I know to work up a load for me or maybe even buy into a load development with one of the custom places. I have heard good things about Copper Creek but their web page is not working so not sure if they are still going. Any other places I could look into?

If I go the reloading route I am thinking of trying 150 or 160 Accubonds. What else would be worth considering in the .284 offerings for a good deer/elk hunting round?
Damn, I feel for ya. It can be so frustrating when you are trying as hard and being so diligent as you've been all to no avail. I think if I was in your shoes and had exhausted all you have done, I'd most definitely move to the handloads. Get some good brass and magnum primers, pick a known powder to perform well in the .280 that should also work with the bullet you end up selecting. Find a good node and smile!😁
 
I got out to the range today before I had to work. I had time to shoot a 5 shot group with the 140AB and one with the 160 Partition.

I shot the 140s first and the group was identical to the one in my first post. I had 4 shots about right at an inch and one flyer just outside.

Then I shot the 160s. They kinda strung out horizontal at about 1.5" so not great. The interesting thing I had happen was one off round. The first few were in the 29xx FPS range. Then I shot the 5th shot and hit 2" low. At first I was just looking at it wondering why I did that. Then I looked at the chrono and saw 26xx fps. Wow, I cannot imagine had that been the one in the chamber when a great buck/bull gave me a nice 300 yard shot.

So, I have done what I know to the gun and it appears that with factory ammo I wont get better than 1". Now to decide if I want to try and get one of the guys I know to work up a load for me or maybe even buy into a load development with one of the custom places. I have heard good things about Copper Creek but their web page is not working so not sure if they are still going. Any other places I could look into?

If I go the reloading route I am thinking of trying 150 or 160 Accubonds. What else would be worth considering in the .284 offerings for a good deer/elk hunting round?
In the past 7-8 years I've had the good fortune to hunt and shoot a lot of elk, both cows and bulls - I used to shoot 7mm Rem Mag and really prefer 160 Accubonds but the rifle I WAS shooting liked 140 Accubonds so much better that I used them and I can say from MY experience that a 140 Accubond in the correct place anchors an elk, even bulls, just fine - My latest is a 280 AI and it shoots 160 Accubonds very well but nothing has died particularly more dramatically with them than with the 140's of before, these experiences would all be inside the 450 yd mark
 
that is not what an experienced "Ackley" gunsmith would tell you I'd bet
"slight crushing" of the shoulder is for FORWARD energy, does not even speak to what is happening at the bolt face- It's your gun, do it how you wish

I've built several ai barrels. The web will not be affected because the reamer doesn't end up over the parent case diameter.

The headspace is reduced to a crush on the shoulder at the junction on the neck. I have always used .004" as my target for crush.

Once the round is fired the shoulder will blow out and the taper will be reduced.

You can shoot factory 280 ammo without issue.
 
How are you shooting? Bipod, bags...? Montana rifles will show form errors in snappier cartridges.
 
I have been shooting off bags with the bag just in front of the action screw and me holdong the forend of the stock with just a little pressure.
 
I have been shooting off bags with the bag just in front of the action screw and me holdong the forend of the stock with just a little pressure.
I wouldn't be touching the forend of that rifle anywhere. If it were me, and this is my opinion formed by my experiences. I would place the front bag somewhere between the front action screw and the front sling stud, preferably more towards the front sling stud for more stability. The rear bag can be placed anywhere between the rear sling stud and the back of the pistol grip (the angled part). The only hand that touches the rifle is my trigger hand (right hand). The other hand (left hand) is holding the front of the rear bag applying or not applying what ever pressure is needed for my desired aiming point.
 
I wouldn't be touching the forend of that rifle anywhere. If it were me, and this is my opinion formed by my experiences. I would place the front bag somewhere between the front action screw and the front sling stud, preferably more towards the front sling stud for more stability. The rear bag can be placed anywhere between the rear sling stud and the back of the pistol grip (the angled part). The only hand that touches the rifle is my trigger hand (right hand). The other hand (left hand) is holding the front of the rear bag applying or not applying what ever pressure is needed for my desired aiming point.
I don't agree, and the article that duchntr posted above explains why in great detail.
 
Sorry, I was not clear. I am using a rear bag as well.

I thought about not touching the forend but thought in a hunting situation I would be likely to have my hand up there.
 
They are picky guns, atleast the two I have shot are.

Why I do not know, but I’m convinced it’s not just the weight. I have zero problem stacking rounds with a tikka that weighs a pound and a half more. I guess maybe that pound makes the difference

Good luck
 
I've found that as long as I do not influence stock flex, the forened can't hurt to get some pinch on it to slow the muzzle jump.

If you crawl into a Montana like it's a m40 you'll have a scope in your face and miss 2" high from muzzle jump.

They need to keep the muzzle under control on the bags or pod and not have contact.

I type this with a knot on my nose from trying to shoot my 300rum right behind my heavy ai.
 
Just a heads up...

Copper creek site came back online today with a note saying they had some kind of a crash. Says they are working on it and to just call for whatever you need.
 
I've found that as long as I do not influence stock flex, the forened can't hurt to get some pinch on it to slow the muzzle jump.

If you crawl into a Montana like it's a m40 you'll have a scope in your face and miss 2" high from muzzle jump.

They need to keep the muzzle under control on the bags or pod and not have contact.

I type this with a knot on my nose from trying to shoot my 300rum right behind my heavy ai.

I agree. To get the two kimbers to shoot Iv come across, a 270 and a 308 so meager calibers, I had to really hold the fore end and control the recoil. Otherwise they would shoot all over. That’s part of the reason I don’t own a Kimber anymore.
 
I’ve been trying to just lean into the gun on the bags slightly and not pull it to me, with a little pull down on the forend. It does have a break on it so not much recoil.
 
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