Proof barrels and barrel vises: can I clamp on the carbon?

[Cactus kid]

Here is my goal:

I want to be able to swap barrels on my tikka without taking the action out of the stock or take the scope off the rail.

Can I clamp a vise directly to the carbon or on the muzzle and torque it down? I do not care about damaging the finish.

Thoughts?

 

[rescue1008]

I was always told to clamp on the steel part of the barrel, Otherwise there's the possibility of breaking the carbon away from the steel liner? Not sure how you would go about doing it without taking it out of the stock. I think it could be done with optics still on, but the stock would just make it cumbersome.

 

[sram9102]

Look into a WTO switchlug. It takes some work to get it setup but it it the easy button for a switch barrel system. I don't think you can really torque a barrel onto an action without removing either the scope or stock any other way.

I went through this a few years ago. I now have a .223, 22 creed, 6.5 creed, and a 300wsm I need to get fit to my action.

Here is the link to that thread.

Switch Barrel Tikka.

 

[gbflyer]

I am not well versed with CF barrels, my sample size is one. I put it in the barrel vise and screwed the action on. Mine has a savage nut so there was no need to put a lot of squeeze on the barrel in the barrel vise to hold it.

I’ve done plenty of steel and/or SS switch barrels. I’ve had a glue - in benchrest gun that I swapped barrels on all the time with the action and scope attached. Port entry action wrench and a portable barrel vise clamped to the table. There is no need to tighten a barrel down like a gorilla.

It’s a good question. Ask a CF barrel manufacturer how to secure the barrel. They’d have the best info.

 

[Cactus kid]

Look into a WTO switchlug. It takes some work to get it setup but it it the easy button for a switch barrel system. I don't think you can really torque a barrel onto an action without removing either the scope or stock any other way.

I went through this a few years ago. I now have a .223, 22 creed, 6.5 creed, and a 300wsm I need to get fit to my action.

Here is the link to that thread.

Switch Barrel Tikka.

I’ve looked into these and it is a fascinating idea, but here are my concerns:

1) the screw coming loose on a hunt. Has this happend?

2) I am concerned with the ability to hold zero on impacts. I never would have thought about this if ARC didn’t mention this being an issue with their barrel swap system

Any feedback on these issues?

 

[sram9102]

I’ve looked into these and it is a fascinating idea, but here are my concerns:

1) the screw coming loose on a hunt. Has this happend?

2) I am concerned with the ability to hold zero on impacts. I never would have thought about this if ARC didn’t mention this being an issue with their barrel swap system

Any feedback on these issues?

I have never had the screw come loose. That was a worry for a while but I would just try and loosen it from time to time with the torque wrench at a lower setting. It has always stayed put. I have had the rifle take a few tumbles and banged it around a box blind or two and I have not had any issues with a POI shift from a drop. For a while I was worried about barrels maintaining zeros when swapping but it has maintained zeros well across all of the barrels I currently have. I would not hesitate to recommend their system to anyone asking. @Reburn was a wealth of knowledge at the beginning of my journey. He has discussed in detail on a few threads his setup.

 

[sndmn11]

@Cactus kid I don't have carbon barrels, but be aware that you will need to sand out the barrel channel probably 3x+ more than you are thinking. Look at the shank and the objective of the scope, and those two together is how far down you need to have clearance for.

You also have to account for the act wrench PLUS the torque wrench.

The BC stock I have my Tikka in I had to trim away some of the front of the comb and sand out the barrel channel a bunch to be able to leave it assembled with the scope mounted.

 

[Reburn]

I’ve looked into these and it is a fascinating idea, but here are my concerns:

1) the screw coming loose on a hunt. Has this happend?

2) I am concerned with the ability to hold zero on impacts. I never would have thought about this if ARC didn’t mention this being an issue with their barrel swap system

Any feedback on these issues?

Sorry for the short answers Im under the weather.

Dont clamp to a carbone barrel you will damage it.
Action will need to come out of the stock. I can do some of mine in the stock or chassis but not all. just use a 40 in lbs fix it stick to retorque your action screws easy peasy.
switchlugh clamp is torqued to 30in lbs. its not coming loose.
no drop conferns. Scopes are drop concerns and if your running a switchlug you better have a no BS good scope. Im not naming names. Thats a dead horse.

 

[Cactus kid]

I have never had the screw come loose. That was a worry for a while but I would just try and loosen it from time to time with the torque wrench at a lower setting. It has always stayed put. I have had the rifle take a few tumbles and banged it around a box blind or two and I have not had any issues with a POI shift from a drop. For a while I was worried about barrels maintaining zeros when swapping but it has maintained zeros well across all of the barrels I currently have. I would not hesitate to recommend their system to anyone asking. @Reburn was a wealth of knowledge at the beginning of my journey. He has discussed in detail on a few threads his setup.

Thanks for the info! That is reassuring for sure. I’ll start down this little rabbit hole And giving serious consideration.

 

[Cactus kid]

@Cactus kid I don't have carbon barrels, but be aware that you will need to sand out the barrel channel probably 3x+ more than you are thinking. Look at the shank and the objective of the scope, and those two together is how far down you need to have clearance for.

You also have to account for the act wrench PLUS

Thanks for the heads up- I’m using a chassis and barrel clearance will not be an issue.

 

[Cactus kid]

Sorry for the short answers Im under the weather.

Dont clamp to a carbone barrel you will damage it.
Action will need to come out of the stock. I can do some of mine in the stock or chassis but not all. just use a 40 in lbs fix it stick to retorque your action screws easy peasy.
switchlugh clamp is torqued to 30in lbs. its not coming loose.
no drop conferns. Scopes are drop concerns and if your running a switchlug you better have a no BS good scope. Im not naming names. Thats a dead horse.

Do you know how it will damage it? Genuinely interested.

I am running a no bs good scope. Not naming names, but it’s a certain 4-16x42 that some shooters use to proof their rifles. The pic rail is also epoxy bonded to the action.

My rifle is currently “proofed” as far as drops are concerned, my only reservation on the switch lug was as stated. Hate to mess up something that is already working!

 

[hwy1strat]

I have used my barrel vise on the carbon barrels several times and never had any damage. I'm not saying that it can't or won't but its always worked out for me

 

[Cactus kid]

I have used my barrel vise on the carbon barrels several times and never had any damage. I'm not saying that it can't or won't but its always worked out for me

Where exactly are you clamping on the barrels? Directly to the carbon?

 

[BRTreedogs]

My carbon barrel got a nick in it just from dropping it on the table or something. I can't really remember. Its not huge, and its not ruined.

But unless the clamp is machined to the exact contour of the barrel, has not sharp edges and has a wide surface area id suspect that you will crush part of the carbon.
Not that I remember, my wife's barrel got a small mark as well just from finger tightening the wheeler barrel level.

 

[BRTreedogs]

I like my carbon barrels and plan to buy more.
But its a fishing pole with a steel tube core.

 

[hwy1strat]

Where exactly are you clamping on the barrels? Directly to the carbon?

Yes, directly on to the carbon just below where it narrows to a lot consistent width. Done it several times one one barrel that switch out pretty often. I just use a generic barrel hose that is in no way perfectly machined either. I have been using drywall tape and grip powder to keep it from spinning

 

[Cactus kid]

Yes, directly on to the carbon just below where it narrows to a lot consistent width. Done it several times one one barrel that switch out pretty often. I just use a generic barrel hose that is in no way perfectly machined either. I have been using drywall tape and grip powder to keep it from spinning

This is great info. Thank you very much

 

[Cactus kid]

I like my carbon barrels and plan to buy more.
But its a fishing pole with a steel tube core.

I’m not too worried about nicks in the barrel as long is it will still shoot.

The way proofs are wrapped seem pretty different than a graphite fishing pole, but i could be wrong.

 

[BRTreedogs]

I’m not too worried about nicks in the barrel as long is it will still shoot.

The way proofs are wrapped seem pretty different than a graphite fishing pole, but i could be wrong.

They just seem softer then I would of thought is all.