Problems with grouping left

[Danny_1977]

Thanks for the help guys


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SoDak Boy]

While tuning the Black Hunter Lonbow at 12 feet from the target, bare shaft and fletched arrows are impacting high and left by 2-4”(as seen in the pic for reference). When bareshaft tuning the nocks are looking straight back at the shooter. I feel as if my form is def not perfect but is consistent(can tell by the grouping). The issue I’m concerned with is that my grouping is to the left and I would like to bring the grouping closer to center(aiming point with tip of arrow).
DW 50# at 28”
DL 27”
Arrows are GT Traditionals 400 spine at 29” with 250 grains up front.
I’ve tried lighter weight up front, twisting my bow arm wrist inward(def not comfortable), adjusting the brace height, cutting away some of the material from the elevated rest(bear weather rest), etc. and no matter what the grouping is still to the left by 3-4 inches. Any help on what can be done to overcome this is highly appreciated.
Many thanks,
~Danny

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SoDak Boy]

Danny

At 12 feet its not your arrow set-up, step back to 20 yards and watch your arrow flight. If the arrow tail is up and down its your nock point or lack thereof. Also at 12 feet, with that group, just drop you aim point. If you're Denver based go to RMSG and have them help. You can't tune your set-up at 12 feet

 

[BigHink66]

Paper tuning is not useful.

Bareshafts need only to group with the fletched arrows, not hit perfectly straight in the target. Where the bareshafts group in relationship to the fletched tells you whether you need to raise/lower nock or stiffen/weaken the arrow.

Broadheads and fieldpoints and how they group will tell you the same thing.

 

[BigHink66]

...also you will be able to read this better at like 20 yards, not 4 yards.

 

[BigHink66]

Basic Tuning

For our first entry here I'm going to put up a document about basic bow tuning. Later I will also add some more advanced information. This one is long, but well worth the read. Bow Tuning By O.L. Adcock Before we jump into this, what I'm about to say and recommend is contrary to what you'll...

www.fenderarchery.com

 

[TaterTot]

Don't listen to bighink, he's lost. Angle of impact most certainly is important unless all you do is shoot targets. If the shaft of the arrow isn't behind the broadhead at impact you are dumping energy in a big way.

I've never heard anything so foolish.

 

[BigHink66]

Lol, they straighten up when you add fletching. The only thing that matters is if bareshafts group with the fletched arrows. In fact, target medium can often cause the nock to orient itself other than straight on and send you chasing your tail with bareshafts. When bareshafting, you are wasting time trying to get the arrow to hit straight on.

Don't believe me if you don't want to. I didn't come up with it, but its true.

 

[BigHink66]

BARE SHAFT PLANING

Somehow, bad information has been passed down from archer to archer for many years on the correct method to bare shaft tune. Some might be familiar with or heard of a technique of bare shaft testing that requires getting close to your target and analyzing nock left/right/up/down patterns for tuning purposes; That is not a good method and causes great confusion! Bare shafts sticking in a target at an angle or flying through the air sideways can be caused by shooter as well as equipment and you can not tell the difference reliably. The correct way is bare shaft "planing"; Determining adjustments based on bare shaft groups in relation to identical fletched shafts at longer distances. A fletched shaft always goes close to where it's pointed, bare shafts or wide broadheads will not. So, by "reading" the relationship between bare shafts or wide broadheads we can fix tuning issues while not allowing form issues to confuse us.

 

[GLB]

Don't listen to bighink, he's lost. Angle of impact most certainly is important unless all you do is shoot targets. If the shaft of the arrow isn't behind the broadhead at impact you are dumping energy in a big way.

I've never heard anything so foolish.

Crying out loud TaterTot, bare shaft planning method has been around along time.

It can be very effective for tuning. I use it out to 30 yards to impact where I aim.

I find that when I have it right for my bow that my bare shaft will try to straighten out at about 10 yards and group together at 30.

I fine tune with fletched arrows and broadheads (if needed) at 30 yards.
Some like to paper tune which can be a good way as well.

 

[TaterTot]

Believe whatever you like. If your bareshaft isn't out of paradox in 4 yards or less you aren't tuned.

Next you guys will be telling me 3x5 inch fletch is optimal on a hunting rig lol

 

[TaterTot]

Crying out loud TaterTot, bare shaft planning method has been around along time.

It can be very effective for tuning. I use it out to 30 yards to impact where I aim.

I find that when I have it right for my bow that my bare shaft will try to straighten out at about 10 yards and group together at 30.

I fine tune with fletched arrows and broadheads (if needed) at 30 yards.
Some like to paper tune which can be a good way as well.

I never said it wasn't an effective method for tuning. I said bhink doesn't know what he's talking about. He unequivocally stated paper tuning isn't useful.

 

[BigHink66]

That is true. Paper tuning will not tell you what you need to know and get your broadheads and fieldpoints grouping from a traditional bow. You will still have to do some method of planing. So you can either make something to hold your big roll of paper, or skip that and go straight to planing.

 

[Danny_1977]

Danny

At 12 feet its not your arrow set-up, step back to 20 yards and watch your arrow flight. If the arrow tail is up and down its your nock point or lack thereof. Also at 12 feet, with that group, just drop you aim point. If you're Denver based go to RMSG and have them help. You can't tune your set-up at 12 feet

Problem fixed. Added some weight and started lining my eye more up with the shaft. Before, at 20 yds was the same issue. Many thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Danny_1977]

...also you will be able to read this better at like 20 yards, not 4 yards.

Much appreciated. I did notice that my shafts slightly higher then my fletched arrows. I will look into this


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Danny_1977]

Don't listen to bighink, he's lost. Angle of impact most certainly is important unless all you do is shoot targets. If the shaft of the arrow isn't behind the broadhead at impact you are dumping energy in a big way.

I've never heard anything so foolish.

Yikes! Lol yeah I’m definitely all about having that arrow straight on for max penetration


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Danny_1977]

Lol, they straighten up when you add fletching. The only thing that matters is if bareshafts group with the fletched arrows. In fact, target medium can often cause the nock to orient itself other than straight on and send you chasing your tail with bareshafts. When bareshafting, you are wasting time trying to get the arrow to hit straight on.

Don't believe me if you don't want to. I didn't come up with it, but its true.

What is target medium?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Danny_1977]

You guys are waisting yours and everyone else’s time with all of the arguing. Save it for the argument of fixed blades vs expandables or crossbows during archery season lol. I’ve got the issue fixed. Thanks everyone for the information.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TradLife406]

Could you be aiming left? As in, your eye isn't directly over the arrow, leading you to think your point is pointing straight at the target?

This... Try adding a little more cant to your bow. I had this issue yesterday. Tipped my bow over a bit more and got my eye over the arrow and it fixed it.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[J Curlee]

You're arrows are too stiff, that is if you're a right handed shooter.
If you're a lefty they are too weak.
Up, and down is related to your nock point, 5/8th"s up from square, nock underneath.
Jim