Prime Rize Tuning

[jm1607]

So basically I'm having 100% the same issue as this guy:

Tuning question. Prime Rize.

I have the same bow, draw weight, and draw length.

My bow is timed, ata in spec, center shot @ 13/16. We actually tuned it a little hot (on the low side of the ATA range) since the fps was lower than we thought it should be and the draw weight is about 67#s, but it was doing this before we did that. And the ATA is still well in spec. My arrows are hitting about 6" left and my sight windage is maxed out (MBG Verdict). It seems like his problem (and quite a few Rize issues from what I've been reading) is that the Rize likes a little bit weaker spine. He was running 350 spine and moved to 400 and it seemed to help/fix him.

The reason I'm suspicious of this is because I'm running a 300 spine BUT, I do have 175gr of weight in the front including the insert. For most bows I think I would be fine but maybe not the Rize.

So, I'm thinking about building a couple arrows exactly the same as what I have in 350 spine to test.

Right now we moved the center shot a little bit and the bow windage is actually dead on, but I have zero clicks left on the sight and we haven't fine tuned the bow yet (no bareshaft/broadhead tuning or anything). And I'd really like the center shot to be back @ 13/16.

Do you think I should say screw it and just leave the center shot off 1/16" since the windage is right on and start tuning it more with my 300's???

I'm also about to back-out the Flexis cable guard a little bit..

Any advice? I'm fairly new to bow tuning....

 

[corylee4870]

I’ve got a Prime Rize also. This may or may not fix your issues but it’s how I got mine to tune.

1. Set the Flexxis to 2.5 turns out
2. Set the arrow rest to get the arrow parallel to the riser.
3. While paper & bare shaft tuning, correct left/right with the flexxis and not the arrow rest.

I made sure that my arrow was set running through the Berger hole with the arrow 90 degrees to the string & dead level. Fixed vertical tears by twisting cables to adjust timing.

The bow hand grip made a big difference for me while tuning. I had to add a little more thumb pressure than I thought I would to keep from torquing the bow.

When I got it to paper tune and then bare shafts hitting with fletched, I broadhead tuned by moving the arrow rest.

Good luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SKYNET KC]

You are certainly not too stiff. VERY rarely will a stiff arrow cause tuning issues in compounds. Don't be afraid to move that centershot just a hair - to me within 1/8 is acceptable. Obviously make sure the BH and ATA are in spec.

Give me all the bow and arrow specs and i'll run you through OT2 when I get home.

 

[jm1607]

Cory, I think before I start messing with the arrow spine I'm going to do what you said. I'm thinking I'm going to move it back to 13/16, back out the Flexis, and see where i sit.. Then tweak the Flexis

My bow is 28" draw, 68#s currently, arrow is 29" 300 spine 175gr total front weight about 458gr total weight.

I never checked the BH but I'll check it in a bit

 

[SKYNET KC]

Cory, I think before I start messing with the arrow spine I'm going to do what you said. I'm thinking I'm going to move it back to 13/16, back out the Flexis, and see where i sit.. Then tweak the Flexis

My bow is 28" draw, 68#s currently, arrow is 29" 300 spine 175gr total front weight about 458gr total weight.

I never checked the BH but I'll check it in a bit

Running blazers? 3 fletch?

 

[jm1607]

Running blazers? 3 fletch?

Yes. Light helical

 

[jm1607]

BH is right on

 

[doverpack12]

Try a slight grip adjustment with a little more counterclockwise rotation for more heel into the grip and a little more thumb side pressure either with the thumb or moving your whole hand over just a hair. I had an alloy that I fought my grip on because it was so smooth and also just liked a little more thumb side to bring the riser around which will move you sight left compared to your grip and help centershot and sight windage. Black gold does make an extended windage bar as well. Almost all binary cam bows like the grip adjustment I described above but primes seem o be just a little more critical

 

[jm1607]

I'll definitely start playing with my grip since it's so new to me.

Going back to spine, I don't think I could go to 350 with 175gr up front. That would be super weak.. I'd probably have to drop the front weight a bit and run a heavier gpi arrow, which isn't the direction I want to go..

 

[SKYNET KC]

I'll definitely start playing with my grip since it's so new to me.

Going back to spine, I don't think I could go to 350 with 175gr up front. That would be super weak.. I'd probably have to drop the front weight a bit and run a heavier gpi arrow, which isn't the direction I want to go..

I've run hundreds of setups for people, you don't need or want a 350 spine. 300 is probably about perfect for you. Like I said before, VERY rarely is an arrow truly too stiff for a setup, and you are most definitely not falling into that category.

 

[jm1607]

I've run hundreds of setups for people, you don't need or want a 350 spine. 300 is probably about perfect for you. Like I said before, VERY rarely is an arrow truly too stiff for a setup, and you are most definitely not falling into that category.

I think you're right. Also, if I load up the front of a 350 spine arrow with 175gr I think the arrow would be waaay too weak?? So I would probably have to take some off the front and run a little bit heavier arrow, lose FOC, then I'm going in the completely wrong direction.

OK, just did a little work on it:

I took 2.5 turns out the Flexis and it helped quite a bit. I'm now shooting about 2" right with my sight maxed out instead of dead on, which is great! I like 2.5 turns because I still have tons of fletching clearance and the cables are just a hair still out of my sight ring. Another .5 turn probably wouldn't hurt anything but just for right now I'll leave it there.

Also, even though the bow tech said the ATA was in spec yesterday, I noticed it was a little out just now. The specs should be 33 - 33 1/4" and mine is at 33 3/8". Now, I don't think that will make much of a difference, or much of a difference towards my issue, but I'll still get it fixed.

So now I guess my main question is should I leave me center shot where it is? With only 2" of wiggle room with the sight now I don't think I can really touch it. It's sitting at 14/16" and the spec sheet says 13/16". It might be possible for me to hit dead on if I change center shot back to 13/16" and take another 1/2 turn or so out the Flexis.....

 

[SKYNET KC]

I think you're right. Also, if I load up the front of a 350 spine arrow with 175gr I think the arrow would be waaay too weak?? So I would probably have to take some off the front and run a little bit heavier arrow, lose FOC, then I'm going in the completely wrong direction.

OK, just did a little work on it:

I took 2.5 turns out the Flexis and it helped quite a bit. I'm now shooting about 2" right with my sight maxed out instead of dead on, which is great! I like 2.5 turns because I still have tons of fletching clearance and the cables are just a hair still out of my sight ring. Another .5 turn probably wouldn't hurt anything but just for right now I'll leave it there.

Also, even though the bow tech said the ATA was in spec yesterday, I noticed it was a little out just now. The specs should be 33 - 33 1/4" and mine is at 33 3/8". Now, I don't think that will make much of a difference, or much of a difference towards my issue, but I'll still get it fixed.

So now I guess my main question is should I leave me center shot where it is? With only 2" of wiggle room with the sight now I don't think I can really touch it. It's sitting at 14/16" and the spec sheet says 13/16". It might be possible for me to hit dead on if I change center shot back to 13/16" and take another 1/2 turn or so out the Flexis.....

To your first part, correct, you would likely be weak.

Sounds like you're heading the right direction. Keep tweaking, you're getting close.

 

[jm1607]

Another update:

Pushed the Flexis from 2.5 turns to 2.75 turns out. Set center shot the best I could to have it parallel to the riser, almost exactly 13/16" (factory spec). Went and shot it. Shooting about 10" to the right (with sight still maxed to the left)! And grouping really good at 20, almost robin-hooded a couple times and I don't even have my stabilizer on it yet.

Still going to bow shop tomorrow. Going to have them put ATA in spec, double-check my center shot work, and double-check draw weight.

All looking very good though!

I'm actually wondering if I even need a front stabilizer with this bow, maybe just a rear one... Going to play with it soon but 1st thing is 1st lol..

 

[SKYNET KC]

Nice.

Your spine couldn't be any more perfect, BTW.

 

[SKYNET KC]

Ignore the arrow that I picked, I couldn't find what you said you used, but all that matters is that a 300 spine was selected.

 

[jm1607]

Ignore the arrow that I picked, I couldn't find what you said you used, but all that matters is that a 300 spine was selected.

Nice, thanks!

One other quick note that your post reminded me of, my bow is running about 10-13 fps slow.. Cant figure out why. My calculators say it should be about 270-272 and its shooting 259. Maybe when I shorten the ata that will help??

 

[SKYNET KC]

Nice, thanks!

One other quick note that your post reminded me of, my bow is running about 10-13 fps slow.. Cant figure out why. My calculators say it should be about 270-272 and its shooting 259. Maybe when I shorten the ata that will help??

it might help a little but it's not gonna make up 10 FPS, maybe 2-3 at most. What weight is your current arrow?

 

[Blockcaver]

And grouping really good at 20, almost robin-hooded a couple times and I don't even have my stabilizer on.

I'm actually wondering if I even need a front stabilizer with this bow, maybe just a rear one... Going to play with it soon but 1st thing is 1st lol..[/QUOTE]

I don't shoot a stabilizer on on Prime Rival. They carry a heck of a lot better without them too.

 

[jm1607]

OK, so bow is now 100% in spec and center shot right on. Shooting 8" right with windage maxed out left which is perfect. Draw weight is about 66.5# which is fine. Grouping great. Shooting great.

My only complaint at all is that it's pretty slow, but it is what it is I guess. I ran some calculators before I bought the bow and it should be sitting about 272 and it's at about 257.. So pretty substantial difference. It does have custom strings that may account for a few fps, but not that much..

 

[SKYNET KC]

OK, so bow is now 100% in spec and center shot right on. Shooting 8" right with windage maxed out left which is perfect. Draw weight is about 66.5# which is fine. Grouping great. Shooting great.

My only complaint at all is that it's pretty slow, but it is what it is I guess. I ran some calculators before I bought the bow and it should be sitting about 272 and it's at about 257.. So pretty substantial difference. It does have custom strings that may account for a few fps, but not that much..

how heavy is your arrow?