Prime centergy string replacement

[92xj]

Please see post 8 for current question.
Though I’d still like to see a fancy well put together video or write up on the centergy.
Block carvers write up is great and helps a ton.


Does anyone know of an online rundown of the string replacement process on these bows?
I am determined to learn and do all my bow work myself from now on. I'm almost complete with my bow work bench and everything needed. New strings will be arriving shortly and I don't want to mess up anything. Ive done hours and hours of research that explains with other brands, so I feel like I have a grasp on what to do, but would like to read something brand specific. Or have someone tell me a few pointers or things to look out for.
I will be measuring and noting ata, peep, etc before pressing and removing strings, press bow and install new strings one at a time, then decompress and measure ata again. If ata is off, what string to twist? The twisting for numerous things has me nervous, as I've never installed or tuned by pressing and twisting. A shop has done all my work in the past, but it's time for me to do it and learn everything.

 

[doncarpenter]

If you want to measure the new strings before you put them on, you need to put them under 100lbs of tension, then measure while under tension. I wouldnt worry too much if the ATA or brace height is not correct until it is a problem, then if thats the case contact the string builder.

Take pics of the bow before you start your work.

Take notes along the way so you have a place to go back to.

When replacing the cables and string start at one end of one cable and follow the path. By that I mean, you take off one loop on old cable and put new loop on. Follow that cable with new cable and change the other end. This way you only have one loop off at a time and less likely to screw up its intended location.

When you are getting ready to take the bow out of the press, go back to your pictures and make sure everything looks like it did before. Ensure that all the threads are in the correct cam tracks. Lift the string and let off the tension slowly.

Check out Nock on, nocked and ready to rock video series on youtube. He goes through an entire bow build from start to finish including tuning.


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Ucsdryder]

Check your timing marks. My centergy tunes with the top cam advanced.

 

[Blockcaver]

If you are happy with your tune right now, and it falls into spec fairly close as recommended by Prime ensure you measure and record:

1. Axle to axle on both sides of the bow, (often they are different by 1/16" or more).
2. Brace height.
3. Nock point location relative to arrow rest.
4. Peep sight height above the nock point.
5. Draw weight is nice to know, as is draw length from the draw board.
6. Timing marks at rest.
7. Timing marks at full draw.
8. Settings for the limb stops which also determines draw length and let-off on a Prime (Rival). I doubt you'll have to remove your limb stops, but I do to press my Rival in my pipe press. Often I mark the 4 corners on the hex nut sides on the cam with a pencil or thin marker so I can return to these points readily. DO NOT DRAW the bow with the limb stops off....they can lock up at full draw...at least on the Rival.
9. How many turns off "tight, or the bottom" the limb bolts are....remember to loosen the limb pocket screws on both top and bottom if the same as a Rival. They often are quite snug...have a top notch set of allen wrenches as they take quite a small allen wrench, again on the Rival. I put anti-seize on the screws so they are easier to remove next time you mess with them.
10. Location of rest cord if it is cable actuated.

I write down and photograph most of the above info before I start pressing and taking things apart.

It was easy for me as I have two Rivals so always had one intact to look at, but with one bow, the recommendation above to remove one cable at a time is valid. To give yourself room to work I'd take the main bowstring off first by removing each yoke. You will need to retrieve the "yoke-doughnuts" from the original string/yoke set for reuse. It is pretty obvious how to remove the yoke strings. I use a grout pick (like a dental pick) to remove the string/cable loops from the posts. Much easier than getting your fingers in there, and more effective than a screwdriver.

So remove one cable and thread on a new one. Do the the second cable. Note that I loosen the cable guard roller but you can thread the cable through with the rollers tightened down. By doing one at a time you won't have any issues with where the cables go on the flexis.

Reinstalling the bowstring and yokes is very simple. Make sure the bow string is put on with the string stop serving in the correct location.

As noted above, when putting tension onto the string, progress slowly, ensuring all strings and cables are in the correct groove.

After you get the bow out of the press and tighten your limb bolts, I'd put a D-loop, attach the rest cord (if applicable) on it and shoot it a bit to settle the strings....before tuning, putting in peeps, silencers, etc. I use a birds head knot (D-loop style) to attach the rest cord and initially set it by stubbing it against the football...later to be a served in knot of serving thread that it bumps against.

After you settle (stretch) the strings, set the A/A, brace, etc. Finish off with timing the bow before any arrow tuning. If your Prime is like my Rivals, they tune very well.

Good luck and PM with a phone # if you want to talk about anything.

 

[92xj]

Thank you!!!
I'm sure I'll have questions during the process. Strings arrive from 60x tomorrow and hopefully I'll have some time after work to get started.

 

[92xj]

So....string is replaced. Everything installed without issue, I believe. Pulled a single cable, matched it with no one and installed, then the other. Yoke, yoke and main string. Once pulled back the bottom doughnut twist instead of staying straight
I don't remember this happening with the last strings. Are there to many twist somewhere or does that doughnut staying perfectly straight even matter?

 

[littlebrotherC]

Mine did that if I put too many twists in the string.

 

[92xj]

Bumping this back up as I’m tackling this again with new strings. This time I tore it all the way down, greased limb pockets and anti seized threads. Put back together and installed new strings. Now the question…
Brace height is perfect at 6.5”
Measured ata is 33 3/8 instead of the factory 33 1/4
What is confusing me is the sync holes in the cams are buried way deep to the point that each sync hole is completely covered by the limb and nowhere near where it should be of sticking out with the limb edge going through the center of the sync hole.
I have shot a good number of arrows this morning and no real movement of sync holes.
How do I get the sync holes out from behind the limb but not extend my ata anymore, as I’m already past spec?
Upper Cam

Lower Cam

 

[wadegarrett]

If you take a twist out of each cable (might not even need a full twist) and add one to your string it should rotate your cams back. If you're bummed about your donuts turning, you can add twists to your split track string section to shorten that up instead.

 

[Samdemarais]

If the donut is twisted you can adjust the amount of twists in either side of the string that splits and goes up to the cam. Super twisted to the right, add some to the left. This always has bothered me with mine but I don’t think it ever effected shooting.