Practice advice for extending hunting range

[kyleds8]

Hello,

looking for advice on practice to extend my effective range while hunting. Hunting in the west with 6.5 Creedmoor. Currently I zero at 200 and shoot up to 300 if I'm setup very steady, and I'd like to get better within those ranges as well as extend to 400-450.

I've got some ammo, but not a ton, so any advice on useful dry fire practice and drills much appreciated. Putting a scope on my .22 to practice with that, but not sure how relevant .22 at 100 yards is when practicing for longer shots.

I am shooting a 1st gen T/C Compass with inexpensive 3x9 Bushnell scope. Removed one hex nut on trigger to make it a little lighter.

Is it time to dive into drop charts etc. to get to those distances? how do you practice that? I like the idea of FFP, which, as I understand it, rules out dialing and drop charts, and allows you to use the reticles hash marks?

Should I upgrade my setup in any way? Still using the budget equipment I bought when starting, but I get the feeling I am the limiting factor, not the rifle.

Many thanks,

Kyle

 

[Lee_R]

Kyle
I'm sure there are more experienced long range shooters on here, but I'll offer my 2 cents. Ideally, you'd be practicing with your 6.5 for all of this, but with the ammo shortage, I think you can make use of your 22 lr as well. I'd use the 22 to practice your shooting skills of needed. .. breathing, rests/positions that are most stable, trigger control etc and find what works for you to get good groups at say 100 yds, starting at 25 or 50 if you need to. Secondly, you will likely need to replace your scope. A basic 3x9 won't cut it, as past 300 you'll start getting more significant bullet drop and simply holding over won't be consistent. As to first or second focal plane, that's going to come down to personal preference. I don't shoot much past 400 on critters and prefer to dial (I've got a drop chart taped to my stocks). You'll want to verify your ballistics with either scope selection, strelok and other apps will get you close, but not perfect. Using a FFP may be a bit quicker if you do the mental math and it does have other advantages (range finding), but it's never been my thing as I prefer to use a range finder and just dial accordingly. Hope this helps a bit.

 

[Northpark]

Ok my .02 as well. A 3-9x can get you to 500 yards if it has a BDC or MOA or MIL reticle and you learn to use it. Otherwise your gonna need a new scope. I prefer a scope with MOA marks and the ability to dial. I prefer to dial for any shot past my 200 yard zero. That being said I killed a bull at 404 yards with my old Nikon BDC scope a few years ago though and can ring steel at 600 with that same .300 win mag.

The basic process is once you have a rifle that shoots sub MOA you zero at whatever yardage you want then get a velocity off the chronograph then run everything through a ballistic computer like the Hornady 4dof app, strelok, shooter, or others. Then it’s on you to go to the range and confirm those drops by actually firing at various distances. After that then ya the .22 will work out to about 300 yards and will teach you to read wind which is actually the biggest factor in hitting targets past about 300 yards.

 

[Border hunter]

Ditto with a scope you can't shoot what you can't see. Also you'll need a good rangefinder. Sig makes a cool combination that links the rangefinder to the scope and auto calculations the corrections.
You can practice dry firing at your house but triple check to make sure it's not loaded. You want ZERO movement while manipulating the trigger.

 

[gilby]

Kyle,

I started in the same position as you a few months ago. The more reading I've done on here and around the web. Natural point of aim and trigger control seem to be most important skills for shooting at those ranges. I would suggest dry firing to really work on squeezing the trigger. Then once you gather dope, I would work on shooting in field positions. I have been using my scoped 22 to work on more unstable field positions (i.e. standing, kneeling with sling) at 100yards.

I have found Ryan Cleckners videos and book helpful.

 

[caesAR15]

If you have the space to stretch out to 200yds or so with your 22 that's where you'll really be able to develop your skills for wind calls, hold overs, etc. Plus, it's really fun. Warning though, bulk 22 ammo can be very inconsistent, so if you're getting big flyers don't pull your hair out.

The previous post about practicing field positions with the 22 is great advice. I'm a big fan of 22lr trainers. Use them to work the kinks out, save on the expensive centerfire ammo, and save barrel life. Just make sure to shoot the big gun enough that it doesn't feel foreign during hunting season. Good luck!

 

[Rich M]

The .22 will give you the basics - breathing, trigger, etc. 100 yard shooting is fine, if you can stretch it to 200, will be fine too. Yes, a .22 can shoot 200 yards. For more fun, use a steel plate.

My shooting got a lot better when I started "only" shooting 200-250 yards (max distance where I shoot). 100 yards is okay, but you'll see more diff in form and trigger control at 200 yds+

One of the things that seems to help is the rest and a rear bag. I use a tripod and rolled towel (or a fist) for a rear rest. Guy I know carries a bean bag for rear stabilization. I shoot like crap off a 2x4 nailed to a tree where you gotta stand to shoot. Much prefer to have my right elbow resting on something.

As for your scope question - 3-9x is a great normal scope. The cheaper scopes often have less eye relief, so be cautious there. I had a 3-9x on a 243 and it would bump yer safety glasses, even w the light recoil. That caused shooting issues. Put a diff scope on there. On a diff gun i put a Diamondback 3-9x BDC and really like it for $200 - not bad in low light and holds zero.

 

[kyleds8]

Ok my .02 as well. A 3-9x can get you to 500 yards if it has a BDC or MOA or MIL reticle and you learn to use it. Otherwise your gonna need a new scope. I prefer a scope with MOA marks and the ability to dial. I prefer to dial for any shot past my 200 yard zero. That being said I killed a bull at 404 yards with my old Nikon BDC scope a few years ago though and can ring steel at 600 with that same .300 win mag.

The basic process is once you have a rifle that shoots sub MOA you zero at whatever yardage you want then get a velocity off the chronograph then run everything through a ballistic computer like the Hornady 4dof app, strelok, shooter, or others. Then it’s on you to go to the range and confirm those drops by actually firing at various distances. After that then ya the .22 will work out to about 300 yards and will teach you to read wind which is actually the biggest factor in hitting targets past about 300 yards.

thank you all for the responses, very useful information. My concern diving into drop charts right now, is that I'm not sure I can consistently find enough of the same ammo, even for bare minimum of tinkering, as far I understand every time I switch ammo I'd need to workup new drop charts?

 

[Northpark]

thank you all for the responses, very useful information. My concern diving into drop charts right now, is that I'm not sure I can consistently find enough of the same ammo, even for bare minimum of tinkering, as far I understand every time I switch ammo I'd need to workup new drop charts?

Yes that is correct. Many folks myself included buy large lots of stuff to keep things consistent. For example I handload basically all my rifle ammo. For my guns I find a load I like and buy 500-1000 of those bullets all from the same lot# and 8+ lbs of powder from the same lot # and 1000 primers from the same lot # and 100-200 people pieces of brass from the same lot #. Keeps everything consistent. If you change anything it’s back to the chronograph for a muzzle velocity check and few rounds at 600+ yards to confirm everything again.

 

[Rob5589]

That scope will hinder your progress. If you want to get better at 400-450, go shoot it. Ballistics programs only take you so far.

 

[IDMONK]

I hunt with a SWFA 3-9X42 power wise 9X will get you a long way (I shoot out to 1000yds+) but the ability to reliably dial is key. I also have no problem using just the reticle out to 500-600. I would be wary of Uber high magnification scopes, field of view can suffer.

 

[MeatMissile]

Bullet drop is your most predictable variable once you have a known range as the crow flies. It seems to be the thing people get caught up in the most, when other issues such as wind will cause more problems and are harder to predict.

I zero my rifle at 250 yards. That keeps me less than 4 inches low at 300 and about 12 inches low at 400. I don’t need to dial to compensate for 12 inches of drop. I verified that by using butcher paper that is longer than needed so it will catch all the holes. This gives me actual drop vs guestimates.

 

[30338]

A good SWFA SS 6x scope for $300 can get you to 600 yards on big game pretty easy. Couple years ago I bought 2 boxes of berger 135 creedmoor ammo for my daughter's rifle. Using an SWFA scope, got it zeroed at 100 yards in 2 shots. Then shot groups and had first round hits out to 500 yards within the first 20 shots.

I'd upgrade to something like a SWFA 6x, or 3-9, and get a good set of mounts. Then play around on JBM ballistics and learn how to input your data. Its pretty easy. After that you just need to work on shooting from field positions.

 

[AZ_Hunter_2000]

A good SWFA SS 6x scope for $300 can get you to 600 yards on big game pretty easy. Couple years ago I bought 2 boxes of berger 135 creedmoor ammo for my daughter's rifle. Using an SWFA scope, got it zeroed at 100 yards in 2 shots. Then shot groups and had first round hits out to 500 yards within the first 20 shots.

I'd upgrade to something like a SWFA 6x, or 3-9, and get a good set of mounts. Then play around on JBM ballistics and learn how to input your data. Its pretty easy. After that you just need to work on shooting from field positions.

SWFA is viable if you are uber lucky and they have what you want in stock, you are patient to wait for more to get it, or buy used.

 

[Rifles And More]

Here's what I'd do:

Upgrade the scope - SWFA would be the budget option if you can find one. Otherwise, look for something with mildots/hashes. Just be aware if it is FFP or SFP. If it is the latter you will most likely have to be on max power for it to work. Add a bubble while you are at it, they are relatively inexpensive.

Spend extra care in mounting and leveling your scope. Make sure that sucker is level and tight!

Get a Magneto speed chronograph.

As stated above, you should be able to zero a swfa (or similar) in two shots. Ammo is like hen's teeth right now, but you gotta pay to play. Use one box to zero the rifle (2shots) shoot a group (9 shots) and the rest (9 shots) with the magneto chrono on to get velocity. I think that's 20 rounds !! Do not think you can cheat the system and zero with the magneto. It will shift your zero when attached.

Be sure to put the CENTER of your 9 shot group as your zero.

All this at 100 yards. Zero at 100. Everything is up from there.

Take that data and put it into a ballistics calc - I use JBM because it has the Lizt BCs and several options to fill in. Make sure your input is accurate. Actually measure bore height, etc...

Use a second box to verify the data. One shot out to your desired range (400-500?) on a calm day. Save the rest of the box for windy days and do the same. Long-range shooting is a wind game once your drops are right.

While waiting for that windy day - use that 22 and practice fundamentals. Hell, even dry fire at home watching your reticle against a light background. You'll see your pulls. I cannot stress enough - SAFETY FOR DRY FIRE PRACTICE. Don't even have ammo in the same room.

Watch every video and shooter you can. Read up on the subject. Keep asking questions. You'll find it's not that hard to get to the ranges you are after. Then, like any other good fix...you'll want more.

 

[Harvey_NW]

Here's what I'd do:

Upgrade the scope - SWFA would be the budget option if you can find one. Otherwise, look for something with mildots/hashes. Just be aware if it is FFP or SFP. If it is the latter you will most likely have to be on max power for it to work. Add a bubble while you are at it, they are relatively inexpensive.

Spend extra care in mounting and leveling your scope. Make sure that sucker is level and tight!

Get a Magneto speed chronograph.

As stated above, you should be able to zero a swfa (or similar) in two shots. Ammo is like hen's teeth right now, but you gotta pay to play. Use one box to zero the rifle (2shots) shoot a group (9 shots) and the rest (9 shots) with the magneto chrono on to get velocity. I think that's 20 rounds !! Do not think you can cheat the system and zero with the magneto. It will shift your zero when attached.

Be sure to put the CENTER of your 9 shot group as your zero.

All this at 100 yards. Zero at 100. Everything is up from there.

Take that data and put it into a ballistics calc - I use JBM because it has the Lizt BCs and several options to fill in. Make sure your input is accurate. Actually measure bore height, etc...

Use a second box to verify the data. One shot out to your desired range (400-500?) on a calm day. Save the rest of the box for windy days and do the same. Long-range shooting is a wind game once your drops are right.

While waiting for that windy day - use that 22 and practice fundamentals. Hell, even dry fire at home watching your reticle against a light background. You'll see your pulls. I cannot stress enough - SAFETY FOR DRY FIRE PRACTICE. Don't even have ammo in the same room.

Watch every video and shooter you can. Read up on the subject. Keep asking questions. You'll find it's not that hard to get to the ranges you are after. Then, like any other good fix...you'll want more.

For a shooter focused on one rifle I'd put that chrono money towards optic or ammo and use the box velocity as a baseline in the calculator and those 9 shots to true at distance. I sold my magneto because I hate the fact that (on most of my rifles) those were wasted shots. Pretty much agree with everything else.

 

[Rifles And More]

Yeah, it bothers me the magneto shots are for velocity only. But, I may be guilty of shooting a few traditional chronographs trying to double duty my shots...