Pole Barn build

[406flyfish]

See if you can get ahold of Lamar Schrock out of Toston. I live in Winston, and have seen quite a few of his builds around here. As a former framer who has built a handful of post frame buildings, if you are planning on concrete, and heating it, you will be money ahead by pouring a mono slab and stick framing on top of it. I type this from my 60x80x16 shop house, that is built just thay way.

Tried finding his contact info online but seems to be sparse.

 

[406flyfish]

Exchanged some emails with Morton when I told them we were inquiring about MQS. Apparently they have a 10k rebate coming up for month of February. He stated the following, not sure if the differences with Morton are even remotely worth the cost?

A few key notes before we get to budget.
* We do not have a 29 gauge option, we only carry a 16ga. (Thicker) gauge.

• for this project we would install trusses 8' o.c. Our building system is based on having a post system to support every truss instead of relying on headers. We can discuss the advantages and potential disadvantages on a call or building tour.
• Our windows are top grade Pella. Included in our basic packages are 4'4" x 2'9" slider. Other sizes are available, but this is our economical standard.
• Or post/trust systems do not require y bracing, and the advantage can be demonstrated.
• For uplift, we use a concrete precast column lower that integrates with our laminated column.
• For underlayment on the roof, if you are considering ever having any living quarters in the building, I would highly recommend installing sheathing on the roof in addition to the underlayment.
• For proper aesthetic on the cupolas and overhangs, i would recommend a 3'6" cupola, and 2' overhangs.

 

[ThorM465]

I am curious about this. I'm sure most builders would put whatever you want. Post frame building are designed without decking under the steel most times. Why 5/8" sheeting.

Short answer is you need at least 5/8 material to screw into to secure your metal roofing.

If you're only using purlins and screwing directly into those (typically 2x4s) that's perfectly fine if installed correctly. If you're installing sheathing, then you're no longer only screwing into the 2xs, you're relying on the sheathing to hold your metal. I'd still want the screw holes spaced to try and hit the purlins under the 5/8 sheathing.