Pole Barn build

[406flyfish]

Add some nice aggregate to your concrete and polish it. I will never not do slab on grade with polished concrete flooring. Its the most durable and budget friendly over epoxy or buying flooring.

We were just talking about this. This is the direction we’re going with the floor.

 

[bowhuntercoop]

We were just talking about this. This is the direction we’re going with the floor.

I did that with my pool house, makes a huge difference for the kiddos with wet feet.

 

[wyodog]

I will never understand the fascination of pole barns If you’re going to pour concrete. I don’t see any how it’s any cheaper, and certainly, not better, than a stick framed building. Some please explain it to me! Especially for the prices quoted above. They do get them up quick, I will say that.

There are some benefits to post frame construction in certain designs. The biggest one is that the building is what is known as balloon framing. This allows for a tall building that doesn’t require interior shear walls. They are not inferior to conventional framed structures when designed and built properly.

 

[Rich M]

We’re doing insulated steel 30x24 w 12 awning. $17k for building (high wind) + $8k for slab.

Will build a living quarters in there til can build a house. We’ll see how the insulation works.

 

[BigSkyHntr]

For what it’s worth I can vouch for MQS. You probably won’t beat their price for a pole barn in MT. They aren’t exactly ‘your local builder’ but they have local crews across the west who basically put up their building packages, which helps bring the cost down because they can get large quantities of materials at a time…
Two of my BILs run one of their crews. Don’t think they would cover your area though.

I am a builder myself (Deer Lodge area, and no I don’t want to travel to Ennis for work) and we mostly do stick frame but do a few pole barns every year. There are obviously lots of opinions out there on pole vs. stick frame and both options have there place! There are so many variables that it’s really not fair to say one way or another is the only way to go. (How fast do u need it? how tall? what is your snow load? Ground type?Climate? Location? What type of interior finish?) ..all things to consider.

Personally I think there is a reason they’re called pole BARNS.. great for a barn/ shop, maybe not so great for living quarters. But that’s not to say it can’t be done! Good luck

 

[ShortMagFan]

Man pricing has really gone up on those things. I had my 40x40 metal building with 2 big garage doors, 2 porches, a 25x15 bunk room with a full bath, kitchenette and insulated/heated cooled built for about $50k if I remember. In 2016

 

[Bearwhisky]

I was quoted $37k for a 35x40x13. Concrete floors, 2 bay doors, 1 man door. Only thing this price didn’t include was dirt work and rock. That price seems high.


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[Coopsdaddy]

Way overpriced for what it is.

 

[Weldor]

Anyone look at Mueller, they look well built for a butler building.

 

[406flyfish]

Well got an updated quote for exactly what we’re looking for. Still trying to get a bid on concrete. Looks like it will be closer to 300k at this point.

Free Standing Building installed on your level site
48' width x 60' length x 14' inside height
Roof System: 4' o/c scissor trusses Pitch: 4/12 Loading: 60-5-5 standard
Walls: 8' o/c TR laminated load-bearing columns with uplift protection
Siding: 29 gauge steel (Undecided Color)
Trim Color (Undecided Color)
Siding: 216 lineal ft 3' Wainscoting (Undecided Color)
Roofing Type: 29 Gauge Painted Steel (Undecided Color)
Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 2-eaves & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia
Insulation/Underlayment: 3262 sqft of Vapor Barrier on Roof
Insulation/Underlayment: 3937 sqft of House Wrap on Sides
2 - 12 X 12 steel-backed ins. (Undecided Color) Overhead Door(s) with 5 lite(s)
1 - 8 X 8 non-insulated (Undecided Color) Overhead Door(s) with 4 lite(s)
1 - 3' X 6'8" Steel 9-lite Entry Door(s)
2 - 3' X 6'8" Steel 9-lite Entry Door(s)
7 - 3X2 Slider Insulated Window(s)
2 - 2' Cupola(s) and a Black weathervane
6 - Y-Bracing on posts
1 - Crew Travel
Delivery to Zone 5
Lean-to #1
8 x 66 Open Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12pitch
Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia
Lean-to #2
8 x 56 Ends Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12pitch
Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 2-gables (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia
Lean-to #3
8 x 21 Open Below Eave Lean-to with 2/12pitch
Overhangs: 12" Boxed on 1-eave & 1-gable (Undecided Color) soffit and fascia

The cost for this project is $137,740.00.


+ Add Siding: 3937 sqft 7/16 OSB behind 29 gauge steel (Undecided Color) for $6,379.20
+ Add Roofing Type: 7/16 OSB under 29 Gauge Steel (Undecided Color) for $5,073.45
+ Add Liner Panel: 2880 sqft of 29 gauge painted steel Liner Panel on Ceiling for $10,423.30
+ Add Liner Panel: 2609 sqft of 29 gauge painted steel Liner Panel on Sidewall (with 2x4s) for $12,250.82
+ Add 60 - 2x6 16" o/c interior wall for $1,979.95
+ Add 1 - R14 Spray Foam insulation 2" sidewalls for $16,688.70
+ Add 1 - R36 Spray Foam Insulation 5" roof for $31,045.95
* - additional travel charges may apply to options

 

[Tod osier]

Anyone look at Mueller, they look well built for a butler building.

They only do SW. NM/CO is as close as they go.

Where I am in WY there was only Cleary and Morton as big builders (plus a builder from the SW that sends a crew up some summers that I didn't find out about until after I cut a check).

 

[Gadjet]

I'm looking at having a 26x36 spare garage built. I would want electric, gas, and water run to it. Anyone know of a good company that would build this in western Colorado?

 

[Schmo]

@406flyfish,
I’ve got family not too far from you. I’m trying to find out if he’s got a good recommendation. He’s in construction himself, with quite a few connections.

 

[Terrapin]

Here is one had had built a couple years ago:

40’-0wide x 60’-0” Deep x 14’-0” Height Glu lam post frame structure 1. 29-gauge Rolled-Rib steel roof over ½ osb and felt and engineered purlins. 2. Sidewalls/gables= 29g. Rolled-Rib steel over house wrap and 2x6 commercial girts. 3. 40’-0” span Gable style factory engineered Trusses with a 4/12 pitch. #50 TC snow load, 2 Trusses per post with post on 12’ centers. Trusses are notched secured with 5/8” bolt. 4. Excavation of post holes with power auger. 5. One (1) 3’x6’-8” Cannonball HNP all steel man door with deadbolt lockset and stainless-steel hinges. 6. One 12x12 insulated roll-up manual op 7. 40x60x4” concrete floor with fiber mesh and saw cut 8. Six 4030 windows 9. Wainscot metal color change 10. All roof purlins span between (not on top) of trusses using joist hangers. Truss post are Pressure treated Glu lam (CCA) 6x8/6 (sized per engineering) set 32” to 48” deep in concrete. 11. Five (5) year Building Construction Warranty. 2-year no leak warranty on Rolled-Rib Roof. (40-year tough bond 3000 paint warranty on all steel products). The total price for ALL MATERIALS, ENGINEERING, LABOR, .57 YARDS OF POST CONCRETE PER POST and DELIVERY to construct the building above is $62,848.56 Additional items to consider: 1. 2’ enclosed soffits on front gable and both eves (ADD$3,608.00)


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[ThorM465]

+ Add Roofing Type: 7/16 OSB under 29 Gauge Steel (Undecided Color) for $5,073.45

I hate to be that guy, but I don't want anyone building for me that thinks it's acceptable to use anything less than 5/8" sheathing for roofing.

 

[406flyfish]

@406flyfish,
I’ve got family not too far from you. I’m trying to find out if he’s got a good recommendation. He’s in construction himself, with quite a few connections.

That would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[406flyfish]

I hate to be that guy, but I don't want anyone building for me that thinks it's acceptable to use anything less than 5/8" sheathing for roofing.

I appreciate the input. I’ll bring that up on our next conversation.

Thanks

 

[carlc]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. We’re not opposed to other builds than Pole Barns. We assumed it would be the most economical option. Any recommendation on builder near Ennis, MT would be appreciated. Reached out to a few so far.

See if you can get ahold of Lamar Schrock out of Toston. I live in Winston, and have seen quite a few of his builds around here. As a former framer who has built a handful of post frame buildings, if you are planning on concrete, and heating it, you will be money ahead by pouring a mono slab and stick framing on top of it. I type this from my 60x80x16 shop house, that is built just thay way.

 

[Jon Boy]

I was quoted $37k for a 35x40x13. Concrete floors, 2 bay doors, 1 man door. Only thing this price didn’t include was dirt work and rock. That price seems high.


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You sure that wouldn’t just be material?

 

[wyodog]

I hate to be that guy, but I don't want anyone building for me that thinks it's acceptable to use anything less than 5/8" sheathing for roofing.

I am curious about this. I'm sure most builders would put whatever you want. Post frame building are designed without decking under the steel most times. Why 5/8" sheeting.