Plethora of questions: broadhead wobble, nicked shafts, removing inserts, QAD Exodus

[TheCougar]

So, from a single session shooting today, I have a plethora... yes, a plethora of small questions. In the course of an hour, I managed to learn that my broad heads are illegal in Idaho, and then I went and messed up two shafts (good shooting day=I need more arrows).

1. Anyone know how the QAD Exodus full blade compares to the swept blade? I'm shooting the swept and they fly good for me, but they aren't allowed in ID, so I'm considering the full blade ones. Will they fly as true as the swept blades and are they as forgiving?
2. How much wobble is too much on a broadhead? I got my arrows (BEA Spartan 300s, +-.001) from South Shore Archery, so I didn't square the ends myself - but I did install the inserts. I have a few inserts with a little bit of wobble - maybe 1/64" of an inch in diameter. For installation, I put on a field point, and twist until it fully seats on the shaft shoulder - seems pretty hard to screw up. Is it my installation, the ferrule, the shaft, or the insert? Any recommendations for troubleshooting the wobble?
3. How do I remove inserts? In the past, I have used the old "drill bit down the nock end and sing like Jeter" method, with great success. This technique no longer works due the fact that I am no longer using indestructible GT arrows or my glue bond is now unbreakable because I am now cleaning the arrow out with acetone prior to gluing in the inserts. The drill bit trick only manages to destroy the shaft of the arrow at the insert while it is pushing the insert out.
4. Last question of the plethora - and the one that I might get ridiculed for asking. I managed to nick a couple of shafts during my shooting. How much is too much to continue using an arrow? In the past, I have admittedly been too cavalier about shooting damaged shafts - they were Goldtips, and if the nick was small and it didn't break when flexed, I would keep shooting it. Probably pretty stupid. I'm shooting BEA Spartan 300s now, and I'm not as comfortable with shooting a less-than-perfect arrow. How much is too much? Does it matter on location, size, etc - or is it ANY damage = a trash arrow. In this instance, the nick was about 5-6 inches from the insert, was 1/8" long, and just barely went through the outer layer of carbon - no splintering.

Thanks for the help.

 

[roadrunner]

1) not sure, no experience with QAD broadheads.

2) unless you can guarantee the insert is perfectly centered, it will always sit on one side of the shaft and if a "slower" setting epoxy is used to glue in the inserts, they will rest on the side the shaft was sitting on while it cured. This will align the broadhead in a different axis relative to the shaft, squaring the ends is overthinking it...

3) try boiling water, sometimes the heat can break the bond.

4) any physical/visual compromise in the carbon shaft matrix can weaken it, it isn't worth the risk.

 

[5MilesBack]

I won't tolerate any BH wobble at all because I never know what distance I'll be shooting. For close shots it may not matter, but on a 50 yard shot it might. But to tell you the truth, I haven't found many arrow/BH combos that wobble. 90% of the arrows I shoot are thick-walled shafts that use HIT's, and they spin well. The worst BH's I found were those G5 T3 expandables. Right out of the package all three wobbled like crazy......that's a non-starter for me. With replaceable blade heads, sometimes just moving the blades around on the ferrule changes it up. But most the time, the BH will wobble because I've shot them into something hard. I don't mess with pulling inserts, etc. I'll get new arrows if I have to to fill a quiver with perfectly flying arrows for hunting season.

And no, I won't put any "nicked" arrows in the quiver either.