'Pick my Load' threads...

[Rifles And More]

I've been seeing a lot of posts looking for people to help pick a good handload for 'my' rifle. I believe, if the load evaluation is done in a methodical and data-driven process, there is no doubt what load is good for your rifle. I'm going to cover what works for me and link some videos, a few of them my own.

Relaoding is one of those hot-button, my way is the only way topics. My disclaimer: My way is not the only way - this is what works for me. Do with it what you want and if you have suggestions to improve it, I'm all ears.

Step one: Find a velocity node.
There are a few methods out there. Ladder test (at distance), OCW, Satterlee 10 shot.
I use my own version of Satterlee (we all know how to do things better, right?). I use more than 10 shots for statistical confidence. What I do not like about OCW and Ladders at distance is they require 'reading the chicken bones'. I only care about velocity flat spots, low ES and SD. I care nothing about where they land right now - just data.
Videos:
Satterlee Video
6.5 Guys load analysis
This guy is awesome!

Step two: Find a seating depth node.
With the above data, pick your flat spot and now tune for accuracy at .003 increments with CBTO. Great video by Eric Cortina explains the method. Would you believe you can tune ANY load for accuracy with seating depth - I do.
Videos:
E.C. chasing the lands part one
E.C. part 2
My Results



Step Three: Load the above combo and verify!
I have used this method and been very confident in my loads - and shot better than I ever have before. I'm just now starting to document and put out some videos about it. That's the great thing about the reloading community - finding out methods and sharing them to avoid the frustration that is out there.

Some things to consider -
You must have a good chronograph. I use magneto speed, the only downside being it shifts my POI. Labradar would be ideal, as you can double duty with groups and data (the more data the better). If you have neither, use what you got. My advice would be to take a control rifle/load with you. I always shot a 22lr across the chrono after set-up and recorded the data. It provided a baseline for how things were gonna work that day.

You must use the same reload method and components for your testing. EVERY TIME. If you anneal, anneal every time. If you trim, trim every time. Do not mix headstamps and manufacturers. Consistency with what you can control is the name of the game. Detailed records are a must!

What I described above takes about 100 rounds. I use my brass in lots of 100 anyway - so it's no big deal. Find the sweet spot for your situation - how many components do you have and how much will it take for you to be confident.

I won't talk about equipment or the nitty-gritty loading details - I plan to do some 'deep dive' videos later. You can make this work with attention to detail and basic equipment.

I have tried several different ways to load and evaluate, most with frustration. I've loaded and read group sizes, I've tried OCW, Ladder test and who knows what else. Never with much consistency or confidence from batch to batch. The method detailed above has worked for me and honestly improved my shooting.

Thank you for indulging me - I hope this helps someone and is looked at through an open mind.

-Dustin

 

[Harvey_NW]

I think that just about sums it up perfectly. I stress the importance of brass prep, measuring .002" shoulder bump and doing what you can to make sure neck tension is consistent will make the process easier.

 

[TexEnv700]

Free bump on this thread to get it back up top. In my opinion the Satterlee method is way under rated. It requires a chrono but a magnetospeed sporter can be picked up for less than $200, even cheaper if one comes up used. I've never found a ES/SD in the sub 10-15 fps range that didn't shoot sub MOA.

In today's component/ammo environment, the cost savings doing a 10-20 round Satterlee load development chips into the cost of the chrono!

 

[Billinsd]

Good post. I'm working up a load for my 7mm Rem Mag. I started at 58 grains, and the max is 60 grains for Nosler Accubonds. The Nosler tech told me just load for Coal 3.29 I think it was and adjust the powder. No, I measured the distance to the lands, which is greater than the magazine length. I loaded 6 cartridges at 58 grains, max mag length, then several more at 0.04 inches shorter Ogive. I fired two groups of 3 shots and found the best group. Then I did the same thing again at 60 grains max. Then I loaded more 6 cartridge sets in 0.005 inch Ogive increments at 60 grains max. Did the same as before and got one 0.39 inch group and a 0.5 inch group. The techs at Berger Bullets told me this technique. I've shot about 60 cartridges to get where I am. Now, I need to chronograph these cartridges. If they are off by more than 20 fps, well that would be disappointing, because they won't work for me and I'll have to back track.

This method is less than Ideal. My goal is to try and get a max 60 grain load to shoot well. If it can't shoot 60 grain well, I will back down, not too far. I'll try another powder if what I'm usually wont work near, at max loads. Yes, it would have been great to be using a Labradar Chronograph while I was testing.
Bill