Paper tuning spyder

[trapperjay]

Ive had my 34 for about one month (shot recurves for several years). After shooting quite a bit, I noticed the arrows "corkscrewing" to target. I built a paper tuner too. I've tried all I know to do by follwing the easton tuning guide- moved rest and went from a 400 to a 340 spine. Still a left tear of 1.5" or so. Draw weight is 60.5#. Any suggestions for me?

 

[OR Archer]

If you are getting a left tear no matter what adjustments you have made to the bow then its the shooter. You are either torquing the bow or the draw length is too long for you.

What are your bow specs?

 

[Xtorminator]

I'm going with cam lean. My Element was the same. I ended up centering up everything the best I could. Then adjusted the yoke one way or the other. I have found the shorter the bow the more critical.

 

[trapperjay]

Draw lgth=28.5 and 60.5#
Fletch size=2" blazers
Point weight= 100grains

 

[OR Archer]

400 spine at those specs would be just fine. Assuming that the timing is on and that cam lean is properly set and you still get a left tear through paper I will stick by that your draw length is too long and or you are torquing the bow.

 

[a3dhunter]

I would yoke tune to eliminate the tear.

 

[tipsntails7]

Broadhead tune it, I'm guessing shooter error as well.

 

[trapperjay]

Thx all. I have the modules for a 28" draw. I will try that too.

 

[boom]

i think if you can see an arrow corkscrewing away with the naked eye..it is more than likely fletching contact.

pull out the wife's least favorite lipstick and put a colored edge to all the vanes and fire and arrow. better if it's an arrow you saw fly crooked. look for lipstick residue on the bow anywhere.

if i ever buy a new bow, i am never paying for it, until i can get a good tear at the shop set up..berger hole, arrow at 90 to the string, centershop down the middle square to the bow, etc. if not, i pick up another and try again. i went thru what you are going thru..drove me nuts. i am a bit OCD. never again.

 

[xxxarcher]

Yoke adjustment like others have said I'll bet that's what it is.

 

[Brandon Pattison]

Arrows don't corkscrew. Most likely what you are seeing is the multi-colored fletching making it appear so.

 

[chobbs]

Might need a little yoke tune but no matter if the DL is too long. All the yoke tuning in the world can be done but unless the DL is correct then it wont matter too much. I would start by re-checking DL then checking cam lean after that.

 

[trapperjay]

Draw lgth checked by changing modules. 28 is too short as I have tobend elbow and lean into the string substantially. I am going to the shop to press it tomorrow. We had a nice little ice storm down here so i'm slowed up a little.

 

[Chesapeake]

I had to yolk tune my Hoyt Maxxis to get it not to tear. Spent weeks tweaking this and that with no luck. A few hours shooting, pressing, and twisting the yolk, cables, and string, now its bullet holes and broad heads hitting with field points. My cams lean a touch at brace, but she shoots like a dream. The valley is wide and the back wall is firm.


I bought a Bow Master and did the pressing and yolk twisting myself. You need to time or sync the cams, maintain axel to axel, and brace height all while trying to get the perfect amount of cam lean. Took a bit of trial and error and learning to get the hang of what to twist and untwist to get it all lined up, but was worth while. Was amazing to see how much 1/2 twist here or there would have such a large affect on how the bow shot and felt.

 

[trapperjay]

The bowmaster seemed durable and reliable? I havent used one.