Paper tune question

Recluse

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C135C434-4106-4F9B-AFB8-0D6314E3C362.jpegFor a severe tear like this, should I be twisting my left yoke before I even think about touching the rest ?

Bow is an Axius Alpha.
 

Silentstalker

Lil-Rokslider
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Oct 22, 2013
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I would work on the rest before I went to the yolk.

That tear looks bad to you but it might come right in line with a minor adjustment.


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Nock right tear = add twist(s) to right yoke, remove equal amount of twist(s) from left yoke

Assuming your rest is currently at/near 13/16", I would leave it be and try adjusting the yokes by a half to one full twist.
 
OP
Recluse

Recluse

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Well I got cam timing perfect as step 1.

Step 2:

Added 2 full twists to the right yoke and removed 2 from left yoke. Still consistently getting this.

My EVL34 (that I just did a string swap on) is shooting bulletholes and is broadhead tuned

BTW: is my paper tuning reference wrong ? It says to add a twist to the left yoke cable. Don't you add twists to the right yoke, when you have a right tear ?
 

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OP
Recluse

Recluse

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Rest moved a little to the right. Same tear
 
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OP
Recluse

Recluse

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It's a Hoyt. So I'm adding twists to one side and removing twists from the other side (all on the top cam)
 

LONE HUNTER

Lil-Rokslider
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If it is still bad after moving your rest 1/16 and messing with a few twists of the yolk maybe need to shim your cams.
 
OP
Recluse

Recluse

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it was shooting bulletholes with the factory strings. Not sure what could have gotten out of whack during the swap
 

OR Archer

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It's a Hoyt. So I'm adding twists to one side and removing twists from the other side (all on the top cam)
Nevermind lol. I read PSE in another post and thought that’s what you’re working on.

Knowing it’s a Hoyt what’s your lower shim configuration. There’s been a few where I had to shim the lower cam to the right in addition to yoke tuning to get good results.
 

OR Archer

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When doing a new set of strings I always lay a shaft against the top cam. I want it to cross roughly at the D loop for a starting point for top cam lean. If yours isn’t doing that I’d get it there then recheck your cam timing.
 

LONE HUNTER

Lil-Rokslider
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it was shooting bulletholes with the factory strings. Not sure what could have gotten out of whack during the swap
You check your brace height, ATA and tiller see if they all look about right? You might have something out of spec far enough to cause an issue
 
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Assuming the center shot is at manufacturer’s recommendation (often 13/16”), ready has proper clearance when it falls (in the case of drop-away), and the cam timing is on, I’d work with the yolks to produce the right cam lean to center that nock tear. Adjust the nock point for up and down tear.


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Jauwater

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I had this same issue recently on a Mathews V3 after getting the strings switched out. I'm no bow technician in any kind of way, but I've been successful in setting up, and tuning my bows in the past. I was losing hair trying to get this bow tuned. To me, nothing was adding up. Regardless what I tried, or researched, everything had the same result. At the time I didn't own a draw board, and didn't put much thought into it because the cables were lined up with timing holes on the cam. Even the pro shop technician mentioned when I picked it up that he checked the timing. I eventually checked the ATA measurement, and it was a little long. So I purchased a draw board, and even though the cables lined up with the cam, the bows timing was slightly off. So I started twisting cables. Didn't work. I eventually pulled off the strings, and cables. Stretched, and twisted them back to factory spec lengths, and reinstalled. That put the bows ATA back to its factory specs, and it corrected the timing. Bow was shooting right again.

I was going crazy. This experience had me trying / doing all kinds of things that didn't make sense. I even started blaming it on my form even though I could pick up my other bow (hoyt), and get perfect bullet holes through paper.

Anyway, hope you get it figured out. That bow had me so frustrated, haha.

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OP
Recluse

Recluse

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Thanks all. ATA is measuring a hair short at 29.25", which makes sense since the draw weight is measuring 73#. Not sure if that's enough to cause my right tear issue ?

Brace height is in spec

Cam timing is perfect , checked on my draw board

Drop away rest was also checked. I also tried different launchers to no avail

I will add that when I bought it new, it took a lot of tinkering for the shop to get a bullethole out of it. So much that my draw stop was almost clipping past the top control cable. Beginning to wonder if I'm going to need to go extreme (or shim) with the adjustments
 
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FWIW Hoyt's manual lists a pretty wide acceptable centershot range (5/8" to 1"). So you could move your rest as much as 3/16" left of 13/16" (to try to get rid of the nock right tear) and still be considered in spec.
Screenshot_20220304-122211_Drive.jpg
 
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Thanks all. ATA is measuring a hair short at 29.25", which makes sense since the draw weight is measuring 73#. Not sure if that's enough to cause my right tear issue ?

Brace height is in spec

Cam timing is perfect , checked on my draw board

Drop away rest was also checked. I also tried different launchers to no avail

I will add that when I bought it new, it took a lot of tinkering for the shop to get a bullethole out of it. So much that my draw stop was almost clipping past the top control cable. Beginning to wonder if I'm going to need to go extreme (or shim) with the adjustments
How the nock fit on the new serving?
 
OP
Recluse

Recluse

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Thank you Mouse! So I started twisting just the right yoke and am getting closer. Had to take a break to log back into work lol
 
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