Paint Cracking on Kimber Montana

throughhiker

Lil-Rokslider
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Feb 8, 2022
Messages
107
Location
Boise, ID
Background

This spring I bought a new Kimber Montana 6.5 CM from eurooptic, having never handled one before. I discovered that I hated the sandpapery finish of the stock - every touch left a mark, and the gritty finish would catch on the tiny corners of skin next to my nails. I couldn't deal with it, plus I enjoy projects, so I decided to paint it.

I sanded the whole thing down, and for reference, there are 3 layers on the Montanas: gritty grey outer layer, white sub-layer, carbon fiber core (sorry no pics of the process).

The sanding was straightforward, and I progressed down a ladder of 80--20-350-500-1000 grit.

For paint, I used a high-fill primer and then sanded it smooth, followed Montana Gold: Roof, but this color was too dark grey for me and it splattered like crazy. Sanded it off and went with a light grey from Krylon. I did 10+ coats, used the whole can, and then wet sanded the stock 500-1000-2000.

I had watched a bunch of folks share their painted rifle journeys here on the Rok, and I really liked the marble effect. I hated the Montana Gold regular spray paint, but their Marble Effect was awesome and easy to use. I hung the stock vertically from a bent coat hangar, and a couple of light coats later I had the look I wanted. Finished it up with another 10-15 coats of clear coat and a final wet sand. done. Definitely, one doesn't need to do this much work, but I enjoyed the process.

Then I went to shoot it.

Issue

After a few shots, taking it slow with the virgin barrel and letting it stay cool, I set the rifle on my tailgate and noticed a crack in the bottom paint in front of the trigger guard. I may have freaked out a bit, thinking my stock had split, but turned out to just be in the paint, thank goodness.

I used a razor blade and cut the bubbled paint off, then new primer, new paint/webbing/clear coat.

Took it out for a second round at the range and the same thing happened again! A ~1" crack in the exact same spot, right in front of the trigger guard.

My only thought is that the stock is flexing in that spot and splitting the finish. But how do I keep this from happening? Any ideas on how to fix it or other theories about what's going on?

Thanks!
 

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Brightside

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
181
Location
Oregon Coast
I hope they help after you painted it. My experience with Kimber lately sucks and there are not many aftermarket stock options...

I have a 2019 Kimber Subalpine in 30-06 that I hate shooting. Recently, I noticed the stock forend making hard contact with the barrel at the end. This is new. I called Kimber and they suggested I send it in for rebarrel🤔 before seeing any pics or the gun, which would cost me around $500. After pressing the facts, they said that stock was no longer made and that I would have to wait a year or more once they received the rifle. I asked if I could open up the barrel channel a bit for hunting season and then send it in once the season was over and he said I would void any warranty if I removed material.

Coming up on hunting season I made some choices. I removed material from the stock until the barrel was free floated. I then sanded and painted the whole stock. The gun shot way better after floating it. 5 weeks later, the stock was once again touching the barrel. The stock is curling up. I removed more to get through the season. 20240616_112644.jpg20240616_112649.jpg20240616_112608.jpg20240707_182906.jpg20240708_073000.jpg
 
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throughhiker

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
107
Location
Boise, ID
As my kids would say, that sounds pretty sus. I don't blame you for just dealing with it yourself. Did you bed it? I can't think of what would cause it to bend like that....

Pretty rifle though, the sponge pattern looks great. Aside from the stock issue, why do you hate shooting it?

You've got me paranoid about my bedding job though - I just ran out to check it, and it still passes the slip of paper test. I will be checking it often.
 

Brightside

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
181
Location
Oregon Coast
I hate shooting it because the stock is very awkward fitting to my body. The short action kimbers are just fine as well as my buddys 8400 300wsm. In the long action, the gun simply hurts to shoot.

Ive learned that the rifle shoots better dirty and without the brake though. The barrel has nearly 1200 rounds through it. The last 200 or so without cleaning have been the best. Also, the recoil destroyed my Leupold VX5. Rattled its guts loose and couldnt hold zero. Swapped for NX8 and epoxy the bases to the reciever.
 

Brightside

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jun 10, 2019
Messages
181
Location
Oregon Coast
And no, I havent bedded it but thats happening this weekend. Likely a waste since the stock is curling but Ill do it anyways
 
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throughhiker

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
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Location
Boise, ID
bump.

Anyone else have any experience with flexing Kimber Montana stocks? Trying to figure out if this is a normal amount of flex and my paint is just too brittle or if I have a problem with the stock itself. I have <200 rounds through it, and while it does seems to shoot ok, it's not exactly a comforting situation to be in.
 

Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
546
Well...I had something perhaps similar on mine. It had a crack in the paint on the wrist, behind the trigger guard. Could flex the stock and see the crack slightly open and close. Not confidence inspiring.

Tried a couple of epoxy "patches" to no avail; the crack would just reappear.

Eventually I decided just to reinforce the area with carbon fiber cloth and epoxy. I stripped the paint down to the gel coat and when I wiped it with alcohol noticed there were multiple cracks in what I assumed was the gel coat in the wrist.

I put, I think, a layer, a wrap and another layer of CF cloth/epoxy. I didn’t care if it looked nice, I just wanted it really strong, which it is now.

Sanded the patch down some and repainted the whole thing. It looks like hell, but it's not ever going to break in that spot.

I don't know if mine, or yours, would ever actually break at those cracking spots,, but unfortunately, that's the only way I know of to fix that flexing. At least yours would be easier to patch there.

You can see my great stock work here...

20220928_165906.jpg
 
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throughhiker

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
107
Location
Boise, ID
@Thegman - appreciate the comments. Sounds like we have a similar problem, unfortunately, though yours sounds potentially worse. Where did you get the CF cloth? What epoxy did you use?

TBD a potential repair like yours, there might be an MPI microlite in my future. I haven't been able to find any other options besides going back to Kimber...
 

Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
546
@Thegman - appreciate the comments. Sounds like we have a similar problem, unfortunately, though yours sounds potentially worse. Where did you get the CF cloth? What epoxy did you use?

TBD a potential repair like yours, there might be an MPI microlite in my future. I haven't been able to find any other options besides going back to Kimber...
I bought something like this kit on eBay


It worked great. Sounds like you wouldn't need much at all. I think it would be worth trying before you scrap the stock.

As I recall, I contacted Kimber about a fix as well, and the $ amount they wanted would have made a custom stock a good option.

Although it's not pretty, I'm really happy with the fix after the fact. It's extremely strong. Interesting to me, my groups shifted slightly after the fix; I assume from removing the stock flex in that area. I don't think it was from pulling the barreled action and re-installing. I do that every time I travel with it and that never affects its POI.
 

Thegman

WKR
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Messages
546
One other thought:

It looks like your stock is cracking right under your mag box. Be sure the bottom of your magazine isn't pressing into that area. I looked at a 300BLK Kimber once that was broken in that area due to that condition.

You should be able to move the mag box slightly up and down while installed. If there's no movement, you will need to remove some material from the magazine legs until it's not making any contact when the action is tightened into the stock.
 
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