bigsky_hunter
Lil-Rokslider
What’s the consensus on virgin brass. Use a mild load to initially fire form, then do load development? Or just start loading and not worry about it?
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Yes, to both. It's entirely up to the individual.What’s the consensus on virgin brass. Use a mild load to initially fire form, then do load development? Or just start loading and not worry about it?
This nearly bit me this year for the first time. Min spec cut chamber and sizing back 2-3 thou. Somehow I got some carbon flake or who knows what in my chamber and could not chamber a round on a deer. Spent 5 minutes pulling the bolt out, finding a dry stick I could get in there to scrape whatever it was out and finally getting it to chamber one. Luckily the deer hung around. I am not sure if more head space would have made it any different but it sure made me question having such a tightly cut chamber.
Either, but I would drop an extra grain if you do a pressure test on new brass. In most cases fireformed brass will show pressure signs sooner because there's less space for the brass to expand to.What’s the consensus on virgin brass. Use a mild load to initially fire form, then do load development? Or just start loading and not worry about it?
I only shoot Lapua or Alpha brass any more. With both of them, I work up a load with virgin brass. When I find pressure, I typically back off a grain or 2, knowing that after I shoot it, and size it, it typically will be higher pressure with the same charge weight. Essentially the brass is now fit to the chamber and all the "work" of the powder is put into expelling the bullet. The brass barely moves. Very rarely do i need to tweak after I find a good load on virgin brass. Again tho, I mandrel all my virgin brass too.What’s the consensus on virgin brass. Use a mild load to initially fire form, then do load development? Or just start loading and not worry about it?
Dang you made short work of testing to see for yourself! I like it!At the risk of looking more like an idiot, here’s an update after today’s shooting. I was ignorant of the significance that controlling the shoulder bump can have. So after yesterdays discussion on this thread I wanted to test it out myself.
I took a known load, and loaded 10 at my previous shoulder bump.
Adjusted my die to only bump 2 thou. Then loaded 10 more.
Shot both groups today.
Group size seems equal, but SD was significantly more consistent for the 2 thousands group.
Previous shoulder bump velocity SD: 12.2 for 10 shots.
New shoulder bump velocity SD: 7.6 for 10 shots.
I had no trouble feeding the new longer case length.
So in the interest of “painless” load development I would say yes, taking the time to set up a die for 0.002 shoulder bump is worth the effort. Especially when compared to my previous SOP of just screwing the die down to the shell holder.
Thanks @wind gypsy and @huntnful for your comments yesterday. Turns out it’s not vudu, and you guys know what you’re talking about.
At the risk of looking more like an idiot, here’s an update after today’s shooting. I was ignorant of the significance that controlling the shoulder bump can have. So after yesterdays discussion on this thread I wanted to test it out myself.
I took a known load, and loaded 10 at my previous shoulder bump.
Adjusted my die to only bump 2 thou. Then loaded 10 more.
Shot both groups today.
Group size seems equal, but SD was significantly more consistent for the 2 thousands group.
Previous shoulder bump velocity SD: 12.2 for 10 shots.
New shoulder bump velocity SD: 7.6 for 10 shots.
I had no trouble feeding the new longer case length.
So in the interest of “painless” load development I would say yes, taking the time to set up a die for 0.002 shoulder bump is worth the effort. Especially when compared to my previous SOP of just screwing the die down to the shell holder.
Thanks @wind gypsy and @huntnful for your comments yesterday. Turns out it’s not vudu, and you guys know what you’re talking about.
Good point.Do you believe 4fps SD is going outside the common variation day to do, and do you believe it’s going show on a target?
I was looking at headspace comparators and called Hornady to ask why they suggest using a .375" bushing for Creedmoors when SAAMI specs the datum at .400" diameter. They claim more consistent results measuring further up thanks to the 30° shoulder angle.I would say yes, taking the time to set up a die for 0.002 shoulder bump is worth the effort. Especially when compared to my previous SOP of just screwing the die down to the shell holder.
Good point.
I picked up this barrel (223 wylde) up August this year. After settling on a load, I picked up 8.8lbs of Varget, 1000ct 80gr eldm, and 1000 federal gmm small rifle primers. And 200 pieces of Starline brass.
Initial die settings were locked in place once I settled on the initial load. And apart from short experiments with other powders and bullets, the main load recipe hasn’t been adjusted until the shoulder bump experiment mentioned above.
All that is to say, I’ve been able to control the variability of the ingredients and dimensions going into this barrel better than most.
I have roughly 800 rounds worth of data for that main load. Going back through the historic shot strings on my chronograph I see the following (2 week sample since weather has been relatively consistent)
10 shots (11.2 sd)
10 shots (11.5 sd)
18 shots (11.4 sd)
10 shots (11.2 sd)
24 shots (12.1 sd)
12 shots (12.0 sd)
31 shots (13.8 sd)
To suddenly see an SD under 10 is notable for this load.
What’s more, going through the other calibers I load for, my historic velocity SD hovers between 10-15 for 10 and 20 shot groups. I take this to represent how consistent I am as a reloader. So again, to suddenly see less velocity deviation is notable for me and my process.
Now, I only have a sample of 10 shots at 100yds with the new shoulder bump setting. The 10 shot group dispersion today looks to be the same as any other 10 shot group this load/barrel has produced. I don’t feel confident enough to say how it will affect my shooting at distance yet. But my typical dispersion for the previous load would exceed an 8” plate at 850 yds.
You’re right.4fps SD won’t change results down range. Or, better way to say it- it would take a lot of shooting, and being very anal about every detail to see it, and positively determine that it is indeed changing the groups.
Learned something new today. This would explain my increase in pressure on my second loading of Peterson brass for my .284. Had to drop from 53 gr to 51.5.Either, but I would drop an extra grain if you do a pressure test on new brass. In most cases fireformed brass will show pressure signs sooner because there's less space for the brass to expand to.
Example: I worked up to 59gr with faint ejector marks on a hot day, so I loaded at 58 and shot the rest over time. 58gr on a winter day with fireformed brass had solid ejector marks and sticky extraction, dropped the charge another 1.5gr (56.5gr N565, easy to remember) and have had no issues in any weather since.
I know it's true and essentially a placebo but for some of us not nearly as trained or experienced as you, sometimes small things like that (noticeable outliers with fairly credible data sets) can make me more confident with the setup.4fps SD won’t change results down range. Or, better way to say it- it would take a lot of shooting, and being very anal about every detail to see it, and positively determine that it is indeed changing the groups.
It's been consistent and worked well for me in the last couple barrels I've started with new lots of brass. Worst case scenario you can double check with a short pressure ladder on formed brass. Glad it was useful.Learned something new today. This would explain my increase in pressure on my second loading of Peterson brass for my .284. Had to drop from 53 gr to 51.5.
I’ll keep this in mind going forward and be a little more conservative.
I know it's true and essentially a placebo but for some of us not nearly as trained or experienced as you, sometimes small things like that (noticeable outliers with fairly credible data sets) can make me more confident with the setup.
Ok, that makes it clearer for me what you are doing.Correct. Like if you want a .003 bump. But you bump the first piece .001 and need to adjust the die deeper.
I didn't realize properly setting up a sizing die was 27 trick moves, and it can give you lower SD's, which is an actual improvement whether it's hard to see and takes a million live fire rounds or not.Then why not do all the 27 trick moves for reloading that waste your time and life, and get you nothing?
You're not lying to yourself if it's actually better. If you were to give any shooter the choice of 2 rifles to take to competition with the same load both legit 50 round cones and #1 is a 1.4 MOA gun, and #2 is a .8 gun, nobody is taking #1. And again, even if it takes a million rounds to see, #2 is better.Lying to one’s self for “confidence” doesn’t actually work out. The reason “painless loading” turns into “make it as f’ing hard as you can” is precisely because of this. People don’t want to just accept that the only thing that matters is practice in the field. None of this crap matters, and it’s stupid.
I'm not sure what has to do with me and trusting a better load more, but okay. I don't know why you're going off on me anyway, aside from an extra safety step of taking a few shots to work up to max, tumbling brass in rice to remove lube, and apparently setting up a sizing die for a measurable bump, I do your painless method. It's worked great and saved me a ton of components. But I'm still going to test a few combos and shoot whatever's better, because it's better.I’m not saying to size down so much that brass splits in two firings, but the first requirement of ammunition is that it loads and goes “BANG” without excuse. We’ve had multiple people at S2H classes not be able to chamber their reloads during the class from dust, water, dirt - always when asked: “I neck size only or “I bumped the shoulders back”.
I didn't realize properly setting up a sizing die was 27 trick moves, and it can give you lower SD's, which is an actual improvement whether it's hard to see and takes a million live fire rounds or not.
You're not lying to yourself if it's actually better. If you were to give any shooter the choice of 2 rifles to take to competition with the same load both legit 50 round cones and #1 is a 1.4 MOA gun, and #2 is a .8 gun, nobody is taking #1. And again, even if it takes a million rounds to see, #2 is better.
I'm not sure what has to do with me and trusting a better load more, but okay. I don't know why you're going off on me anyway, aside from an extra safety step of taking a few shots to work up to max, tumbling brass in rice to remove lube, and apparently setting up a sizing die for a measurable bump, I do your painless method. It's worked great and saved me a ton of components. But I'm still going to test a few combos and shoot whatever's better, because it's better.