Packing and hunting with horses

Books and teaching packing are tough. Pretty hard to understand rope knots in words on hitches unless you are already pretty experienced with the basic packing knowledge. I taught packing for 5 years along with Cody and LeRee of Royal Tine guide school. They have been teaching it for over 30 years, and run multiple 4 day weekender clinics during the summer that ive sent numerous people to and all have been very impressed with how much they take away from a short course. Aside from going to one in person, they created a great dvd that goes over all aspects of backcountry horsemanship and packing, and might be a little easier to understand than reading a book about it. https://www.royaltine.com/courses/instructional-packing-video/
 
Books and teaching packing are tough. Pretty hard to understand rope knots in words on hitches unless you are already pretty experienced with the basic packing knowledge. I taught packing for 5 years along with Cody and LeRee of Royal Tine guide school. They have been teaching it for over 30 years, and run multiple 4 day weekender clinics during the summer that ive sent numerous people to and all have been very impressed with how much they take away from a short course. Aside from going to one in person, they created a great dvd that goes over all aspects of backcountry horsemanship and packing, and might be a little easier to understand than reading a book about it. https://www.royaltine.com/courses/instructional-packing-video/
Agree about books and knots/hitches. I still refer to those Royaltine videos.
 
Good comments on sourses. Another point to discuss is rope type and weight. In pack saddles I purchased over the years, there can be some severe differances.

I prefer hemp as it tends not to stretch however I have found quite a difference in recent hemp quality to some of my old stuff. The newer rope appears to be softer and looser.

I like 1/2" but I have encountered 5/8" rope on lash cinches. The 1/2" is easier to get a nice tight knot while the 5/8" is bulkier and I have to work harder to get the knots as tight as I like.

Over the years, I have found loads to settle and even shift over the first 1/2 mile and that is on roads and flat trails. Especially on angular and irregular loads. Not only is weight a critical component in balance but where the loads ride on the stock become critical especially in rough ground and stream crossings.

There is no substitute for experience. You need to see the failures coming and repack before you get to a failure. Something as simple as what order do you place your stock in the string can limit your risk of failure.
 
Rope choice: I switched from hemp (I think it's actually manilla) to something
called unmanilla if memory serves. It's a synthetic that doesn't absorb water like
manilla hence doesn't swell and freeze as bad.

You need to practice at home. Your animals can use the practice, too.
 
My hunting partner attended a packing clinic in Montana and immediately put into practice what he learned. He's basically got it mastered from practice and repetition.

We had a good wreck last year.

The mule took off at a full run with 2 full panniers, packs and bows top packed on top and it was tarped. Ran 3 miles to the truck, crossed the Shoshone river, and that load was still exactly how he tied it on that morning when we found them eating grass back at the truck.

Sent from my SM-G990U using Tapatalk
 
Mt terry d
Haven't seen that for sale but I will be looking. Can it be braided? On mine, I braid a 4" loop on one end and backbraid a 4" section on the other end. When crap happens, I have stopped, braided a splice in an repacked.

Over the years I have stockpiled ropes as I have found them available so I am probably good for what years I have left but I am certainly open to product improvements. Thanks
 
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