Another good choice. Or the base cut off a sabot (much cheaper).Have you tried an MMP sub base? @sabotloader turned me on to them. They work great.
Yes in theory if it goes down fairly snug then it should act as a seal. I've used them with Lee R.E.A.L bullets. In MT you must you plain lead bullets (no sabots) in weapon restricted areas so I used that to help prevent cutting of the soft lead bullet. Not sure it worked since I think I had bad lead fouling using that bullet so I stopped using that load.Do the dry wads still produce a gas seal?
I use the ox yoke lubed with wonder lube and they work great I do it in 54 and 50 cal hawken rifles. Defiantly improves my groups and gives me much more consistent accuracy over not using them. I have found that the lubed wads improve the gas seal perfectly and the un-lubed is basically the same as shooting without a wad. Not much blow by but instead of 4" groups I get 2" with open sighted side lock muzzleloaders.I am using a cva wolf with no excuses 420 grain bullet. Want to try using over the powder wads. I am wondering if dry or lubed wads are best for accuracy? Does the lube affect the powder if left in contact over say a week or 10 days in the backcountry?
It will definitely effect the powder over time. I usually either fire mine and swab with a dry patch or I pull them and swab at the 2 day mark. Also I will say the warmer it is the more that lube greases it stays more solid in colder temps and doesn't get as greasy.I am using a cva wolf with no excuses 420 grain bullet. Want to try using over the powder wads. I am wondering if dry or lubed wads are best for accuracy? Does the lube affect the powder if left in contact over say a week or 10 days in the backcountry?
I honestly don’t think a lubed wad adds much value to your load. The lube really just helps with keeping the fouling softer on sequential shots. Maybe it’s a little more moisture resistant than a dry wool wad but you ought to be taping your muzzle anyway so I have little concern about water getting to my powder via the muzzle.ok, thanks for all the great information. Now for a random brainstorm in regards to the concept of the lubed wad affecting powder on a prolonged hunt where you may not fire the gun for a week or 10 days. What if you used some cardstock over the powder (to protect the powder from the lube) and still used a lubed wad over that and under the bullet to make the gas seal?
I honestly don’t think a lubed wad adds much value to your load. The lube really just helps with keeping the fouling softer on sequential shots. Maybe it’s a little more moisture resistant than a dry wool wad but you ought to be taping your muzzle anyway so I have little concern about water getting to my powder via the muzzle.
Yes, you could easily add a veggie wad (see pic below), ploy wad or dry wool below the lubed wool wad if you wanted to. I used to use lubed wool wads quite a bit and never had any issues with the lube contaminating the powder. Depends on the lube I suppose. Just use a poly (plastic) wad if you’re worried about it.
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As for leaving the rifle loaded. I have 16 muzzy rifles of all kinds and have hunted exclusively with a muzzleloader for everything for the past 35 years - sheep, goats, deer, elk, caribou, African game, you name it. I foul the barrel, load with BH209 (or 777), tape the muzzle and leave it loaded all season. I’ve done this for years and never had a miss fire or hang fire in an inline rifle. Zero need IMO to shoot out the load or reload unless you’re hunting in the rain and think the powder got some moisture somehow (usually via the breech).
A couple primers and then one shot, usually.What is your process for fouling the barrel?