Optimizing the Tikka CTR

[jwo]

I ordered a Tikka CTR Stainless .308 with a 20" barrel and I should be able to pick it up this week. This will be a crossover rifle used for both Western US (Idaho) hunting and casual target shooting. I've been researching aftermarket parts to optimize the rifle, but I would love to hear recommendations. I'm still not sure about glass for this gun yet. I plan to get some of this other work done while I decide on that.

I plan on:
-Sterk stainless swept back bolt handle and knob
-Sterk stainless Gen 2 bolt shroud
-Limbsaver Airtech recoil pad
-Dead Air KeyMo muzzle brake to be used with my Sandman S suppressor
-Mountain Tactical hardened action screws
-Mountain Tactical or Lumley recoil lug

-I plan on loading 165gr Accubonds to see how they shoot. Do I bother swapping out bottom metal? Lumley has an option planned to be released next year. Mountain Tactical has an option now.
-Do I swap the bolt stop for a long action or keep the short action?

I've done quite a bit of tinkering with ARs, but I've mainly shot stock bolt rifles. This will be my first time really customizing a bolt rifle. I'll have a gunsmith do most/all of the work for me once I have the parts.

 

[Formidilosus]

I plan on:
-Sterk stainless swept back bolt handle and knob
-Sterk stainless Gen 2 bolt shroud

The bolt handle causes issues in the field especially with gloved hands accidentally pushing the bolt up which won’t let the rifle fire. The factory handle is better for a field rifle. The factory shroud is already metal- wasting money for no gain whatsoever with the Sterk shroud.

-Limbsaver Airtech recoil pad

The recoil pad that comes on them is already good. There’s no benefit to the Limbsaver pad.

-Dead Air KeyMo muzzle brake to be used with my Sandman S suppressor

Best thing that can be done to any rifle.

-Mountain Tactical hardened action screws
-Mountain Tactical or Lumley recoil lug

Those are both a waste of money. The factory screws are good quality, and the factory recoil lug is steel. Again, your spending money for no benefit.

-I plan on loading 165gr Accubonds to see how they shoot. Do I bother swapping out bottom metal? Lumley has an option planned to be released next year. Mountain Tactical has an option now.

Why should you swap BM?

-Do I swap the bolt stop for a long action or keep the short action?

Why do you need a longer bolt travel?

I've done quite a bit of tinkering with ARs, but I've mainly shot stock bolt rifles. This will be my first time really customizing a bolt rifle. I'll have a gunsmith do most/all of the work for me once I have the parts.

The best thing you can do to a CTR is suppress it, mount a reliable scope on it, and then after those two things put it in a KRG Bravo chassis.

 

[hunting1]

CTR is good to go out of the box unless you just have to spend money IMHO. Mine shot anything I loaded with Varget MOA or better.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Put your brake on it for your can and spend the $$ you’d blow on all that unnecessary stuff on a better optic, rings, or ammo.

 

[jwo]

The bolt handle causes issues in the field especially with gloved hands accidentally pushing the bolt up which won’t let the rifle fire. The factory handle is better for a field rifle. The factory shroud is already metal- wasting money for no gain whatsoever with the Sterk shroud.





The recoil pad that comes on them is already good. There’s no benefit to the Limbsaver pad.





Best thing that can be done to any rifle.






Those are both a waste of money. The factory screws are good quality, and the factory recoil lug is steel. Again, your spending money for no benefit.




Why should you swap BM?




Why do you need a longer bolt travel?






The best thing you can do to a CTR is suppress it, mount a reliable scope on it, and then after those two things put it in a KRG Bravo chassis.

Well, I'm glad I posted this thread then! Sounds like you may have saved me some money.

As for bottom metal and the bolt stop, maybe they're not necessary for a .308? I'll be hand loading for the gun, so I thought I may be able to load a longer round with AICS mags and a longer bolt stop, but sounds like it may not be needed.

 

[jwo]

Put your brake on it for your can and spend the $$ you’d blow on all that unnecessary stuff on a better optic, rings, or ammo.

That seems to be the consensus. Thanks.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Well, I'm glad I posted this thread then! Sounds like you may have saved me some money.

As for bottom metal and the bolt stop, maybe they're not necessary for a .308? I'll be hand loading for the gun, so I thought I may be able to load a longer round with AICS mags and a longer bolt stop, but sounds like it may not be needed.

Just pick a bullet that’s not jump sensitive like a VLD or ultra long or needed to be loaded ultra long and you’ll be fine. Berger 185gr Juggernaut would be about perfect for what you’re doing. You can get .020” off the lands no problem and stay mag length and its a great dual purpose target and hunting bullet.

 

[Formidilosus]

As for bottom metal and the bolt stop, maybe they're not necessary for a .308? I'll be hand loading for the gun, so I thought I may be able to load a longer round with AICS mags and a longer bolt stop, but sounds like it may not be needed.

You can load longer in the 308, but the CTR mags already have good COAL.

 

[jwo]

You can load longer in the 308, but the CTR mags already have good COAL.

So when it comes time to upgrade to the KRG Bravo, would you get one that accepts CTR mags or AICS mags?

 

[General RE LEE]

Mountain Tactical trigger spring. You’re welcome

 

[Formidilosus]

So when it comes time to upgrade to the KRG Bravo, would you get one that accepts CTR mags or AICS mags?

I personally prefer the AICS mags as the feed lips are thicker and do not bend easily. I have seen a few issues with bent feed lips on the CTR mags.

 

[jwood1284]

I have the same rifle in 6.5cm, and mounted an Athlon Helos 2-12x42. The only thing I have done is adjust the trigger screw down to the stop, and it doesn’t leave me wanting for anything else upgrade wise. The only thing I need is a TBAC CB mount for my can. IMO the CTR is one of the best factory rifles to pull duty as an all around hunter/light tactical rifle.

 

[sdupontjr]

OR, you can take the CTR and place it in another stock with T3x bottom metal and M-mags. In my hunting conditions, I coundn't get use to the CTR mag sticking out the bottom. Wanted something more flush. then I changed and/or modified the bolt stop. Pull the rail and shave a lot of weight off of it and still have a short barrel 308 as I did. Put a 4-16x50 credo on mine. The only other thing I'm trying to get use to is the big bolt knob. My T3 308 has the standard knob but fluted. I may swap it out, may not, for the same instance that Form mentioned. gets bumped to easy.

oh and also as others mentioned, changed the trigger spring.