Optimal path for boomer tikka

[willfrye027]

I think you could go a couple different ways here.

Sell the rifle, buy a 6.5cm or 243, and be done.

For about the same cost as a new gun you could rebarrel into 6UM, 25 PRC, 25sst, 6.5 saum, etc. and you would have a very long range capable gun if you’re into that. I’d only do that if you have another gun that you can shoot a lot for cheap (223, 6.5cm, etc)

 

[willfrye027]

Think the long throat and jump might be hurting accuracy, I had the action notched to feed ~3.5” COAL rounds from an AICS mag and new bottom metal, presumably nuking any resale value. Did I mention I was stubborn and maybe a fool?

I hope others can learn from my bad example.

I don’t think that will necessarily hurt resale

 

[TheCougar]

BTW I want to express sincere gratitude to everyone for the responses. It had been demoralizing to put in this much time and components attempting to “train” every week and with no clear results. I’m feeling strongly inclined to cut losses and get something small off the shelf that will hopefully work with one of my powders. My hope for the optic was to keep sending it back to Vortex until they asked me to stop.

Are you training with this rifle - meaning is your primary rifle a 300wm?

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

I think you could go a couple different ways here.

Sell the rifle, buy a 6.5cm or 243, and be done.

For about the same cost as a new gun you could rebarrel into 6UM, 25 PRC, 25sst, 6.5 saum, etc. and you would have a very long range capable gun if you’re into that. I’d only do that if you have another gun that you can shoot a lot for cheap (223, 6.5cm, etc)

I’m pretty good about getting to the range and the farm for trigger time. I have some hesitation about the transfer of skills from my default 223 trainer since it’s a gas gun. Maybe put a dummy bolt handle on it like one of those fake steering wheels for toddlers?

 

[willfrye027]

I’m pretty good about getting to the range and the farm for trigger time. I have some hesitation about the transfer of skills from my default 223 trainer since it’s a gas gun. Maybe put a dummy bolt handle on it like one of those fake steering wheels for toddlers?

I don’t own an AR so it’s hard for me to say. But I’m fully on board with going to a more sensible hunting cartridge

You might be surprised how much interest your notched action/aics combo would get to just sell outright for someone to rebarrel.

 

[TheCougar]

I would give you similar advice, coming from a similar experience. I’d put that gun in a closet for a year. Get a 223 tikka with a good scope. SWFA, Credo, Ten Mile, SHV, LRHS (If you can find it) or maybe a Maven that is in the middle of being tested. If you can afford it, get a Rokstock. Get 1000 rounds of ammo and just shoot it. Form has a shooting drill. Learn the rifle, build good mechanics, build dope, and keep shooting. I did this with a 6.5. In hindsight, I wish I had gone 223. I just bought one so I could shoot more, for cheaper. Reps matter! I don’t think a gas gun is the same. I’d get a bolt gun- a tikka. FWIW, I think you’ll find a lot of guys here, myself included, who found this advice helped them turn a corner.

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

Are you training with this rifle - meaning is your primary rifle a 300wm?

Until fairly recently, yes. I got the 6.5 Ruger in an attempt to split the training load and reduce component expenditure. I don’t think I’ll take it in the field again after my experiences this season.

 

[TAArrowood]

Sounds like you're doing a lot of things right.. The 300wm is a lot of rifle in a light weight package like the TIKKA.. I have a couple that I shoot unsuppressed so I can relate, although I normally have little problem getting 5.-.75 groups consistently... In my opinion, the Vortex could be part of the issue.. That rifle can easily stress a marginal scope. If you like the 300 well enough to keep it if you could shoot it I'd stasrt by removing the simple to fix issues.. I'd try another scope and in the process insure that the mount(s) are secure, rings are torqued correctly, action is torqued correctly, recoil lug is seated correctly, barrel if free floated.... Also, if you have a friend who is reasonably proficient let him shoot and see if he can replicate the issue.. If it shoots well for him, it's you.. If not, its some issue with the rifle/scope setup... Also, verify that you're shooting setup/form are conducive to proper shooting.. Give yourself every chance to like the rifle.. If all that fails, try to understand why it didn't work for you and identify a rifle/cartridge that minimizes those propable issues.. I don't know if you're familar with "target panic"? A lot of archers get it and they just have to work through it.. Good luck and hope things work out for you.. All the best.....

 

[Unckebob]

If you're going for a downgrade in recoil and swapping parts, a 6.5 PRC is still going to pack more recoil than is needed in most cases. I would think smaller, and go 6 creed or 25 creed.

I got a 6.5PRC Roughtech recently. Although it has more recoil (no brake/can), it isn't that much more than my 6.5CM does.

I find it comfortable to shoot. With a can, it will be a pussycat.

 

[Gila]

Did you find that POI and dispersion were similar when shooting unbraked after training with a brake? Most warn about being able to “tolerate” excessive recoil, i.e. you’re gonna flinch, but others point to the movement of a greater recoiling gun during the bullet’s dwell time in the barrel. I am not equipped to know how significant that part is.

I found my hit rate go up definitely! POI no….doesn’t change. However the groups will tighten up and you will be able to practice more with a lighter recoiling cartridge using a brake. My .284 has light recoil without the brake, however when I practice, the brake goes on. Makes a huge difference at 400 yards and beyond.

By the way, the Tikka 300 win mag barrel has a giraffe throat. I couldn’t shoot anything above 180 grains because the groups would go to crap. I have a previous thread out about that from about a yrear ago. I couldn’t seat the bullets out of the case far enough with a mag limitation of 3.37”.

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

Sounds like you're doing a lot of things right.. The 300wm is a lot of rifle in a light weight package like the TIKKA.. I have a couple that I shoot unsuppressed so I can relate, although I normally have little problem getting 5.-.75 groups consistently... In my opinion, the Vortex could be part of the issue.. That rifle can easily stress a marginal scope. If you like the 300 well enough to keep it if you could shoot it I'd stasrt by removing the simple to fix issues.. I'd try another scope and in the process insure that the mount(s) are secure, rings are torqued correctly, action is torqued correctly, recoil lug is seated correctly, barrel if free floated.... Also, if you have a friend who is reasonably proficient let him shoot and see if he can replicate the issue.. If it shoots well for him, it's you.. If not, its some issue with the rifle/scope setup... Also, verify that you're shooting setup/form are conducive to proper shooting.. Give yourself every chance to like the rifle.. If all that fails, try to understand why it didn't work for you and identify a rifle/cartridge that minimizes those propable issues.. I don't know if you're familar with "target panic"? A lot of archers get it and they just have to work through it.. Good luck and hope things work out for you.. All the best.....

The 2-10x36 Credo (I think that one was drop tested? Need to check) and UM tikka rings have been on my list for a while. I managed to break something internal on my first Vortex just with recoil, no bumps. Nothing has literally rattled loose on the replacement yet, but that was disconcerting.

 

[TAArrowood]

Those would be good choices.. Vortex has a great warranty, I can attest, but who wants a scope that has to be in the shop all the time.. Put it on a 22 or something with minimal recoil and look at replacing it with something that is proven to stand up to heavy/sharp recoil.. The mount and ring system need to meet that same criteria... I'd bet that some basic fixes will have you shooting beyond what you think you're currently capable of.. Good luck.. Once you find that "right" combination of components it really makes going to the range an enjoyable experience and you don't mind spending time/money/energy doing it..

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Where in PA are you? I can spin a barrel off, and let you test drive Tikka 223 6.5 if you're close.

P.s., the 223 / 77tmk works fine on pa deer

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

Where in PA are you? I can spin a barrel off, and let you test drive Tikka 223 6.5 if you're close.

P.s., the 223 / 77tmk works fine on pa deer

That is very generous of you. I’m about 20 minutes outside Ph*ladelphia. I visit relatives in Pittsburgh and Tioga county intermittently. I’d PM, but I’m such a FNG that I don’t think I can do that yet.

I went out and bought a few boxes of TMKs as soon as I saw what they were doing to elk.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

We can't be too far apart, pm me once your post count is up

 

[Chris_in_Idaho]

It sounds like your mind is made up on dropping caliber, and I'm considering that myself. However I wanted to add just one observation. I have a Savage 300WSM and my coworker has a Tikka 300WSM. The Tikka felt recoil is considerably sharper.
I think the difference is the Tikka is a little bit lighter and has a hard recoil pad.
Shooting the same 180 Norma Bondstrike back to back, when I shoot my Savage it's like "I felt my body get moved," and the Tikka is "I felt my body get moved and I also have a bruise."

So I think a cushy pad would make a huge difference on a Tikka.

 

[HandgunHTR]

Until fairly recently, yes. I got the 6.5 Ruger in an attempt to split the training load and reduce component expenditure. I don’t think I’ll take it in the field again after my experiences this season.

What happened in the field with your 6.5? That should be more than adequate for PA whitetails and while the Ruger isn't a Tikka, both of mine have been solid performers (.243 and 6.5G).

 

[Gila]

If you opt for the 6.8 Western, all you need to do is change the barrel. The powder you have will work great in the 6.8 western. I have over a keg of powder left over from the 300 WM.

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

What happened in the field with your 6.5? That should be more than adequate for PA whitetails and while the Ruger isn't a Tikka, both of mine have been solid performers (.243 and 6.5G).

I grazed the bolt handle while I had a round chambered up in a tree. Bolt handle popped the rest of the way up and slid back in the action. The bolt stop said “not my problem”, so I had to climb down and go dig around in the snow to find the bolt and live round.

*Edit: also, if there’s any upward pressure on the bottom of the magazine it’s pretty much a guaranteed failure to feed. Weirdly loud safety, like stepping on a dry stick.

 

[AlpineCarpetbagger]

It sounds like your mind is made up on dropping caliber, and I'm considering that myself. However I wanted to add just one observation. I have a Savage 300WSM and my coworker has a Tikka 300WSM. The Tikka felt recoil is considerably sharper.
I think the difference is the Tikka is a little bit lighter and has a hard recoil pad.
Shooting the same 180 Norma Bondstrike back to back, when I shoot my Savage it's like "I felt my body get moved," and the Tikka is "I felt my body get moved and I also have a bruise."

So I think a cushy pad would make a huge difference on a Tikka.

This is accurate. I put a limbsaver pad on mine, and the visible damage to my shoulder went away. It’s probably still not great for my arthritis.