Optic Choices

[Fibonacci4u]

Last fall, I was fortunate enough to hunt NM for mule deer. I discovered that my optics (Swarovski 8x SLC) were not optimal for long range observation. I have been a “creeper” on a number of threads and have learned a lot from the boards. I am interested in everyone’s feedback for mule deer whether it be the high country or low country.

Choose 1
1. Swarovski NL Pure 12x + Vortex spotter
2. SIG 16x with image stabilization (no spotter)

Thoughts?

 

[Hnthrdr]

#1 but I’d save up for a kowa, meopta, swaro spotter…

 

[180ls1]

#1.

Only a 16 just pigeon holes you too much.

 

[hereinaz]

IS binos don’t do enough for long range glassing. Edited to add tripod glassing.

IMO, their sweet spot is handholding for quick scans where animals are more obvious like caribou in Alaska or hunts where quick scans with 8s are good.

 

[RockAndSage]

A good rule of thumb is to put the most money into the glass you'll be spending the most time behind.

For me, I've generally gotten the best results with that being high-powered binos on a tripod. The two biggest reasons for that, is quality of glass directly determines how long you can be inside that glass before eyestrain and eye fatigue start setting in, and because better glass allows better visibility into the shadows where deer tend to be during the day. I don't do my primary glassing out of a spotter because I'm not a one-eyed pirate, and that causes a lot of eyestrain and headache for me fairly quickly.

Cheaper 8s on the chest, and a lighter weight spotter for double-checking stuff I think I'm picking up in the high-powered binos, round everything out.

All that said, I'm giving a lot of consideration to switching things up, and going to a big-eyes setup as my primary glassing, no separate spotter at all, and picking up a good set of range-finding 8s or 10s on my chest.

 

[Hnthrdr]

Big eyes or btx is unreal if you can handle the weight and are glassing big,big country

 

[LaHunter]

Disclaimer: I have never looked through the NL Pures.
I would say find some used in like new condition 10X42 SLC or EL binos, depending on if you think that you would like the 'field flattening' image of the ELs. The 'newer' SLC HD binos are pretty tough to beat, in my opinion, especially when you can find them for $1000 - $1400 in like new condition vs the price of the NL Pures.
The specs on the NL Pures states 91% light transmission, same as the SLCs. I think the ELs are 90%.
I think the NL Pures have the field flattening image also, so just be aware of that.
You would then have enough $$ left over for a top tier spotter & tripod.

 

[nobody]

Option #3: Keep your 8x SLC’s, buy a Kowa/Leica/Zeiss/Swaro spotter and some high mag tripod binos (Maven B5, SLC 15, etc)

 

[hereinaz]

Disclaimer: I have never looked through the NL Pures.
I would say find some used in like new condition 10X42 SLC or EL binos, depending on if you think that you would like the 'field flattening' image of the ELs. The 'newer' SLC HD binos are pretty tough to beat, in my opinion, especially when you can find them for $1000 - $1400 in like new condition vs the price of the NL Pures.
The specs on the NL Pures states 91% light transmission, same as the SLCs. I think the ELs are 90%.
I think the NL Pures have the field flattening image also, so just be aware of that.
You would then have enough $$ left over for a top tier spotter & tripod.

For 10x I agree, but for tripod glassing where you are glassing for long periods looking for small movements at long range, the whole experience of the 14NL has me hooked. I like everything about them.

 

[Grassymike]

I actually prefer 8 power over 10's or anything higher. However I have done the majority of my glassing handheld while hunting with a bow. I would buy a decent small spotter and just keep your Swaro's.

 

[cwitt]

I’ve been lucky to spend a lot of time behind the both the NL12s and the Sig 16s, as well as the NL14s in the last year. I’ve said it in other threads, but the Sigs do not have the glass necessary to replace a good pair of high quality binos. Especially not for the glassing associated with hunting mule deer in any environment. They’ll get you by but it’s by no means ideal. My suggestion would be to keep the 8s and look at a dedicated tripod bino. The 14 NLs are incredible and if you’re considering 12s, you should also definitely consider those. With the introduction of the 14s, there are also a lot of used SLC 15s for sale as well as some other good options out there. Going with something like the SLCs would also potentially leave some room to invest in a higher quality spotter. I think you’d be very happy with any of those combinations. Of your two options, I would absolutely lean towards the 12s and spotter.

There’s a lot more similar discussion in another thread. I believe it’s called “Alpha Glass vs Stabilized Binos” or something like that.

 

[hereinaz]

I’ve been lucky to spend a lot of time behind the both the NL12s and the Sig 16s, as well as the NL14s in the last year. I’ve said it in other threads, but the Sigs do not have the glass necessary to replace a good pair of high quality binos. Especially not for the glassing associated with hunting mule deer in any environment. They’ll get you by but it’s by no means ideal. My suggestion would be to keep the 8s and look at a dedicated tripod bino. The 14 NLs are incredible and if you’re considering 12s, you should also definitely consider those. With the introduction of the 14s, there are also a lot of used SLC 15s for sale as well as some other good options out there. Going with something like the SLCs would also potentially leave some room to invest in a higher quality spotter. I think you’d be very happy with any of those combinations. Of your two options, I would absolutely lean towards the 12s and spotter.

There’s a lot more similar discussion in another thread. I believe it’s called “Alpha Glass vs Stabilized Binos” or something like that.

Thread 'Image stabilizing binos vs Alpha Glass?'

Feb 6, 2025

With all of the reviews on image-stabilizing binos I've never seen anyone compare them to high-end binos. I'm curious about people who have used boths thoughts on how they compare, to me I don't see how they could be comparable at all to something like a Meopta, Swaro 15x on a tripod and I don't see how they could compare to an alpha spotter.

• nphunter
• Replies: 28
• Forum: Optics

 

[sndmn11]

My suggestion would be to keep the 8s and look at a dedicated tripod bino. The 14 NLs are incredible and if you’re considering 12s, you should also definitely consider those. With the introduction of the 14s, there are also a lot of used SLC 15s for sale as well as some other good options out there.

This is what I'd do. There's not much lacking with the currently owned 8X SLCs. I'd choose a 14x/15x or an ATC Kowa55 depending on my preference for wanting to zoom and comfort in one-eyeing.

 

[TaperPin]

For general purpose hand holding there is a magnification limit that is different for each person. Personal shakiness, technique, and muscle memory all contribute. I have no problem with 12x, but others max out at 10x, or below.

There must also be somewhat of a personal choice as to how much work you enjoy putting in. It is more work to automatically get elbows tight to the body, get a good steady grip, and have to move your upper body for wide swings. I see that as the price to play. Others enjoy being able to swivel their head, elbows flopping around in the air.

Going from from 8x to at least 10x is a no brainer. If you already use 10x and wished for more I’d say the same thing about 12x. Just be careful it’s not too much of a jump - at least spend a day with 10x before committing to 12x.