Oil between rail and rifle?

[williaada]

Looking to see what other people have done when mounting scopes.

Does anyone put a thin coat of oil between scope mount/rail and the rifle to prevent possible corrosion?

 

[realunlucky]

I do the opposite and use brake cleaner to get any and all oil removed from both pieces

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[williaada]

I do the opposite and use brake cleaner to get any and all oil removed from both pieces

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I do the same thing… just wondering if I was missing something

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I do it this way. Oil is the wrong thing to have involved in scope mounting.

Scope mounting to maintain zero

After multiple requests for an explanation of how to mount a scope in order to have the lowest possibility of loss of zero, a discussion of a scope mounting video, and the latest thread about scope bases and action screw coming loose, I took some pics of what I do with a rifle when I get it and...

rokslide.com

 

[Choupique]

I decrease it and put blue loctite.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I decrease it and put blue loctite.

This is the best way. The loctite will keep it from rusting or corroding and you can still apply it to the screws and it hold without having oil residue contaminate it.

 

[williaada]

This is the best way. The loctite will keep it from rusting or corroding and you can still apply it to the screws and it hold without having oil residue contaminate it.

Do put loctice on the rail and then attach to the rifle?

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

I just mounted two scope bases to swedish mauser receivers with a thin coating of JB Weld between the degreased scope mount/rail and waxed receiver. We'll see how that does...

 

[redneckbmxer24]

Do put loctice on the rail and then attach to the rifle?

I put a liberal amount on the receiver then bolt the rail on and use Q tips to clean up what oozes out. Degrease both the rail and receiver.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

I just mounted two scope bases to swedish mauser receivers with a thin coating of JB Weld between the degreased scope mount/rail and waxed receiver. We'll see how that does...

It will still rust between the JB weld and the receiver, I've bedded many rails the same way and pulled them down the road and there was always some rust. All the wax does is hold the moisture against the receiver, it doesn't bond in any way. If you don't want to to eventually rust then pull it after the JB weld fully sets up which you have to do anyway to clear out your screw holes, clean up the wax, and apply blue loctite to the top of the receiver.

 

[Mtnmilsurp]

It will still rust between the JB weld and the receiver, I've bedded many rails the same way and pulled them down the road and there was always some rust. All the wax does is hold the moisture against the receiver, it doesn't bond in any way. If you don't want to to eventually rust then pull it after the JB weld fully sets up which you have to do anyway to clear out your screw holes, clean up the wax, and apply blue loctite to the top of the receiver.

Thanks! I did remove the JB Welded scope bases and cleaned up the wax on the receivers with acetone then oiled the receivers before replacing the JB Welded bases. The wax was just temporary to get the JB Weld to release from the receivers. I might put Loctite under one of them and leave oil under the other.

 

[packer58]

For me, i prep and bed all my rails with marine-tex epoxy "stress free", there are plenty of videos online. I chase all receiver screw holes with an appropriate tap to clean them up and use a bottoming tap in the hole in the barrel tenon area so i get to the bottom of that fastener hole. All threads are then cleaned with your choice of de-greaser with a modified Q-tip threaded in and out of the fastener hole, i dab a little blue loctite on the screws and assemble per torque specs. As far as a rust preventative between the bedded rail and receiver it depends, blued receivers get a dose of remoil pretty much all wiped back off for a little protection, Coated or stainless receivers get nothing.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I can't fathom intentionally oiling something I wanted to remain stationary. Blue loctite seems like a reasonable compromise if you're concerned about rust.

 

[VernAK]

Rubber Cement!

 

[wyosteve]

I can't imagine a base being loose unless the screws are loose. If so, then there's a bigger problem than a bit of oil between base and receiver.

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Don’t loctite the base to the receiver. Maybe the screws, but not the receiver.

 

[Choupique]

Don’t loctite the base to the receiver. Maybe the screws, but not the receiver.

Why not?

 

[Pickettpuncher]

Why not?

Why would you?

 

[ResearchinStuff]

who's ever seen oil stay still when subjected to compressive forces and not fully contained? it doesn't happen-and the material properties of oil and laws of physics make it impossible that it would ever happen.

apply some compression force to hold the action and base together and that oil starts moving to areas of lower pressure because the forces on the oil are unbalanced. As it is flowing, some of that oil ends up going into the screw holes because they are a lower pressure area. Some of that oil also comes in contact with the screw threads and gets pulled into the threaded connection. both mechanisms lubricates the threads, allowing vibration and heat/cool cycles to loosen the screw over time. That's the fundamental reason why having lubricants in/around the base-action joint is a bad idea if you want the base to remain tight for a long time without having to worry about it. Moreover, the challenges of keeping a base tight to an action is the reason that integral rails are superior to mounting solutions that require bases at all.

Dry joints work just fine for holding tight. Threadlocker shouldn't hurt anything, and may help hold the base to the action. Lubricants unequivicably hurt the cause of keeping the base tight, but do whatever you want and have confidence in.

 

[Choupique]

Why would you?

It can only help. Certainly won't hurt anything besides leaving some cleanup work if the base has to come off.